Sailing Ithaka

"May your road be long and full of adventure" - C.P. Cavafy

Mustique: Turtles, Basil’s Bar

It was a quick sail over from Bequia to Admiralty Bay in Mustique, where we took up a mooring just in front of the beautiful town beach.

Mustique is a small 1 mile by 3 mile private island catering to the rich and famous. Tommy Hilfiger has a house here, along with Brian Adams and the CEO of Jack Daniels. Nick Jonas honeymooned here. Mick Jagger liked his home here so much that he bought another one next door. You get the idea.

While most of the island is off limits to the hoi polloi, there are a few dozen moorings open to cruising sailboats. We tied up to one with the help of Barris, the de facto harbor master, a super friendly local who explained where we could and couldn't go on the island. Luckily, the small village on the island was open to us, along with about a mile of white sand beach which we had virtually to ourselves. The town was a hoot, combining upscale boutiques...

just across the lane from a fish market with blood and fish entrails in the gutter.



Barris recommended that we eat at "The View", the restaurant where the locals dine. We watched the sunset from there one night and had one of the best meals that we have had on this side of the Atlantic.

We also caught a nice sunset from Basil's Bar, an upscale open air thatched tiki bar built out over the water. Basil's is a famous watering hole for the local property owners - we ate dinner there with our friends Kim and Chuck and the next night they sent back a picture of them having a beer next to Mick himself.



There was amazing snorkeling right off the back of our boat, and we spent hours exploring the small reef there. The reef was in great shape and had loads of beautiful fish and coral, but the highlight was the turtles. We saw scores of Green turtles, ranging from the size of a hand to an arms length in diameter. They are protected here and not very afraid, and so we were able to watch them graze contentedly on the bottom vegetation. Amazing. The locals are so impressed by the turtle procreation that they have made a statue in celebration.



Although we couldn't go unescorted around the island, we did take a couple hour taxi tour with Iroy, who pointed out a number of the celebrity properties. You can rent most of them if the owners are not there. Prices range from $20,000-$70,000k+ for a week.



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