We left an anchorage for one night at Egg Island and headed almost due north at first light for Little Harbour and the beginning of our Abacos exploration. We have been hearing for years about how nice it was in the Abacos and yet we spent almost no time there three years ago when we went into Marsh Harbour, then on north for our return trip to NC. Island Breeze was anchored on the other side of Egg Island and we touched base by radio, but with different schedules and departure times, we left separately. It was a lovely day heading north, light winds so we motor sailed the entire distance arriving at the Little Harbour Cut about 3 PM. Winds were forecast to increase from the east that night so we anchored on the west side of Lynard Cay along with a large number of other boats with the same intention and decided it would be a good time to take a day of rest and map out our next stops.
The Abacos are unique for the Bahamas. There are so many locations to visit, and each one has something different to offer. In the midst of these various islands and settlements is the Sea of Abaco. Like a large sound, the main island Greater Abaco lies to the west and extends nearly 200 miles north to south with numerous out-islands (like the outer banks in NC) across the Sea of Abaco to the east. To move east to west or west to east across the Sea of Abacos is never more than 5-6 miles and an easy couple hour sail. The Abacos is environmentally also different from much of the rest of the Bahamas. It is more lush, more flowers, and more frequent settlements, often with resorts and more development than all the rest of the Bahamas except Nassau.
We mapped out an initial travel itinerary with the intention to visit every location in the Abacos ! That had been our initial goal, and now it seemed that we could really could do it. Along with that plan was, as always the weather. Things really haven't changed much even though we are now well into mid-April. Over the next week, we are looking at three cold fronts coming in succession, the initial one somewhat more severe than the reinforcing fronts that follow. Initially coming out of the west, clocking to the north meant we needed multiple locations to hide. In addition, we have been having domestic water problems. Our tanks emptied unexpectantly while still in Rock Sound and I attempted to locate and repair the problem. It all seemed to be the input connection to the water pump, and while I tightened and tried to secure all the water lines, they had again broken loose and water poured from the pump inlet. Thank goodness our water maker was working to keep us supplied with just the inconvience of shutting off the water and the pump after each use, but we knew that repairs could be made at Marsh Harbour in the next week.
Our first stop had to be Little Harbour, and Pete's Pub. Located at the far south end of The Sea of Abaco. Little Harbour is a small lagoon on a narrow, shallow channel. We anchored outside and took the dinghy in. The entire settlement has a fantastic storey. An internationally recognized Canadian sculptor, Randolph Johnson had immigrated to the US and taught at Smith College in Northampton, MA. In the early 1950's Johnson sought a home for his family away from the "megamachine" and materialism he saw all around him. In his journal he wrote "I have been told of a place that sounds like the paradise we have been looking for" the date of the entry was May 30, 1952, two days later he and his family, wife Margot and three children set sail on his schooner, Langosta, for Little Harbour where he intended to settle. They lived in nearby caves, shared with bats and crabs, until a hut was built, and continued to build his home and a Foundry where he cast bronze sculptures that have sold around the world. One of his sculptures "St Peter: Fisher of Men" rests in the Vatican Museum in Rome. Randolph died in 1989 at the age of 89, but his son Pete has continued the Foundry and the life as an international sculptor. Pete also opened "Pete's Pub, which is known by everyone in the Abacos and throughout the Bahamas. The gallery at Little Harbour is stocked with bronze sculptures, many depicting the love of the sea and creatures loved by Pete and his students.
Little Harbour is an amazing and beautiful location. Sand beaches surround much of the lagoon, and the roads are all sand with heavy rope lines crossing for "speed bumps". The landscape is lush and tropical with flowers everywhere, but perhaps the most interesting is a community continually surrounded and sprinkled with sculptures. They are everywhere you turn, on a wood deck trail to the ocean, a grouping in a median in the middle of a small circular sand drive, at the front of buildings. It's a beautiful location, a wondrous place to live and work. Visitors come from all over the world, and for events and celebrations the anchorage around Little Harbour is packed with boats. For the beginning of our Abaco experience, we couldn't have picked a better location.