After spending about 3 days in Islas Rosario, we sailed to one of the southern most islands of San Blas. San Blas, an archipelago of 350+ islands hugging the Caribbean coast of Panama, is a dream place where sailors spend months and often years living and sailing around. It is a unique place in the western hemisphere because it is the only place where indigenous tribes have been given sovereignty.

It is estimated that there are approximately 50,000 Kuna Indians in Kuna Yala, the name that the Kunas give these islands. Of these, 10,000 live in Ustupu the largest inhabited Kuna island located in the southern part of the chain. As one moves from the southern-most islands to the northern most islands, closer to the larger cities in Panama, the culture of the Kunas which is sometimes maintained by strict rules, change to be more westernized. In islands like Pinos there are almost no signs of western influence while in islands like Nargana and Porvenir the Kunas do not wear their Molas, the Spanish language is more widely spoken and there is more extensive infrasctructure like a small airport.

It is believed that the Kunas are descendants from Colombian Indians who immigrated from the Sierra Nevada area in the northern Caribbean coast of Colombia (around Santa Marta) to El Darien jungle which is on the Caribbean border between Panama and Colombia. As the Spanish conquistadores invaded Colombia, the Kunas sought a better life and immigrated to these desolate small islands. Many Kunas still inhabited the Darien area and share similar culture and language.

Kunas were left to live an untouched life for centuries and were able to ward off the Spanish, pirates and many invaders who tried to seize Panama during the Spanish take over and ranksaking of the treasures from South America. However, after Panama declared its independence from Colombia (1903), Panama began to interfere with Kuna Yala, as the Kunas call their islands, to try to integrate them into their culture. The Kunas, who were known for being peaceful, wanted to remain a part of Colombia and uprose against Panama proclaiming their independence from Panama and naming their island Kuna Yala, instead of the Spanish name San Blas. Their independence was partly gained with the help of the United States as Kunas asked for mediation. The United States sent the USS Cleveland, which was cruising the area, to Porvenir. Panama gave in and granted independence to Kuna Yala. However, Kuna Yala is still considered part of the territory of Panama and, as such, Kunas have representation in the government of Panama.

A quick synopsis of the history of the Kuna Indians and their customs can be found in the website http://sanblassailing.com/San%20Blassailing/kuna.html Additional information and pictures can be viewed at http://www.galenfrysinger.com/san_blas_kuna.htm