At 7:30AM on New Year's day, we picked up our anchor and continued moving westward toward Esnasdup, another uninhabited Kuna Yala island. Our goal was to move somewhat quickly now so that we could see more of the islands that were famous for their great diving and snorkeling. We had nearly run out of fresh water and decided to make a quick stop at a small island called Rio Azucar because the Azucar river which empties near it brings sugar cane debris from the mainland. This island is also unique. We did not have to fill jugs of water on land and bring them to our boat at anchor to fill our tanks. Rather, this tiny island filled with huts and some brick homes rises sharply from a depth of 20-30 feet so that one can bring a vessel right up to its dock. As with many of the islands, Rio Azucar is bounded by the mainland and though its harbor was small it was big enough to maneuver having to wait for another vessel which was filling its tank when we came in. We actually tied up to a Colombian trading boat which was at the dock and they kindly let us walk through their boat to get the hose and fill Kikuyu's tanks.

In Rio Azucar we met a young man about 30 years old, Maximo, who took Maria on a quick run around the island to buy some food, including the famous Kuna bread, a white-flour but good tasting finger-shaped bread. Maximo was a friendly man, spoke perfect Spanish as he worked in boats in Panama. He introduced Maria to his 4-year-old son, a very healthy looking kid. Most Kunas we encountered were indeed very clean and healthy looking, with beautiful white teethes which shine on their golden dark skin and jet black straight and bushy hair. As we were leaving Maximu's hut where Maria went to buy bananas, he asked Maria if she would take his son and raise him because he thought he would have a better life with us in the United States than with him and his wife in Azucar. Maria was shocked by this sudden request and had to ask Maximo to clarify. When he repeated his request Maria went on to tell him that she thought the kid belonged in Kuna Yala with his parents and not with us. We have since learned that some Kuna kids have been adopted by foreigners.

Though Kunas appear very happy and, we think, realize the paradise they live in, their lives are hard and we see why they would want to seek a more "civilized" life-style. A major portion of their daily lives goes toward acquiring food, growing crops with few or no tools, fishing with their Ulus (canoe-type vessels which they make out of wood) and taking care of their health and other things that are mundane to western civilization. Nonetheless, as difficult as their lives seem to us they are also very simple. In the traditional islands, except for cell phones and internet in some islands, Kuna life is devoid of technology. Their homes are built out of sticks and thatched roofs which we are told could last 20 years. They have dirt floors and typically just 1 bedroom for all with hammocks (sometimes beds). Their kitchens have wood-burning stones, some have gas stoves and most things are accomplished by manual labor like laundry, cooking, etc. So there are less things to break and to be hassled about, which is contrary to what sailors contend with on a daily basis.

By now we were getting comfortable with navigating through the reefs of these islands which we had been warned to eyeball carefully even though we had Bauhaus' guide to help us. However, on the way from Rio Azucar to Esnasdup we got distracted with setting up our fishing gear and though we were following a route that marked an atoll in a depth of about 24 feet (8-9 meters) and thought we would safely clear it, Kikuyu suddenly hit bottom! Fortunately we just brushed the side of a sandy atoll and with our sails up and the engine at full throttle (the highest we had engaged the engine) Kim managed to break our keel loose and unharmed. The atoll was clearly visible with the naked eye though it came up very fast. We were very lucky to not have hit hard coral and not the side of our boat.

We loved Esnasdup spending 3 days snorkeling around and visiting with other vessels. It felt as if we were in the wild and in a way we were even though we were now visited by Kunas in their Ulus selling some food and their Molas. Some Ulus even had an outboard motor and came from nearby Nargana island, one of the most developed islands, to sell fresh food.

Kenny and Daniel had some time to play in our boat and were taken spear-fishing - this was the first time Daniel saw this. Fortunately, there is no ciguatera in these waters and some reef fish could be eaten. We savored some of the fish that were caught.