The Cape of Saint Luke
14 November 2011
Dan
Cabo San Lucas is the sort of place that is polarizing. You either love it or you don’t. I guess I would have to lean to the “don’t column.
Not that there is anything inherently wrong with the place, it just isn’t my cup of tea. I haven’t felt more under siege for my money since visiting Disneyland, and to be honest, I kept waiting for “It’s a Small World” to start playing in the background. The food was pretty good, but having been spoiled by Ortega’s in San Diego, it wasn’t anything spectacular.
The marina was nice, but hot and loud, with no breeze and too many bars around it. The town itself felt like a facade, a stage set if you will. The prices were as high, or higher than anything in the States and the provisioning access was rough.
Most of the folks we met were so very nice though- and that’s really what impressed me. The separation of rich and poor is extreme in a place such as this, but everyone I met was more than willing to help me with my pidgin Spanish and was always ready with a laugh and a smile- the people were great.
A couple of hints for those who follow. The “Tiki Bar” next to the Baja Cantina has great “rollo vegetariano” sushi rolls and a Mahi-Mahi fish and chips plate that is a great value. Speaking of the Baja Cantina- pricey and not that great for chow. The Office was a hoot but if you are bothered by street vendors, don’t sit by the beach. Los Deseos, next to the marina has the best Green Chile soup Kelly and I have had in a long time, they also do this cool three cheese appetizer with flaming tequila and a hot Molcajete (volcanic bowl thing) that is entertaining and delicious.
Provisioning is not the greatest, but there is a Mercado close enough to the marina/dinghy dock to be convenient. Make sure to buy the non USA brands though, much cheaper and really more interesting. They do have the little glass Cokes which make great hot weather treats for about 6 pesos or 50 cents usd.
As we get ready to cast off, having done the check out thing with the Capitan de Puerto since we had a crew change- Steve hit the friendly skies- we go to start up the faithful Perky (everything on a boat has a personality including the engine). All we heard was the whine of a non-engaging starter. A few choice words, some dirty hands, and an achy back from working on the dock later, the starter had been removed, disassembled, cleaned, lubed, reassembled, and reinstalled in two hours. Not really feeling the love for a night sail right away, we decided that a change in plan was easier. So, another bowl of awesome Green Chile Sopa at Los Deseos and a good nights rest later, off we go.