Hello from Rapa Nui! We successfully navigated (well, our Garmin GPS did most of the work) to this tiny Polynesian outcrop in the Southeast Pacific. Our passage covered 1949 nautical miles and took exactly 13 days to the hour, having arrived on the 16th at 0810. In fact, we slowed down on purpose the final day and night out, since we didn’t want to arrive at night. We were due to arrive sometime around 10pm or midnight the night before our eventual arrival. But, we drastically reduced sail – took down our already triple reefed mainsail and rolled in even more geonoa – and poked our way south southwest for the final 20 hours.

I woke at about 7am and knew that we should be very close to the island. In dramatic fashion, I sat up in bed, looked out my port, and wow, land ho! The island is incredibly beautiful, with lush green hills, three volcanoes, palm tree lined streets, and waves crashing on the reef. The strong offshore winds on the lee side (where we’re anchored) add to the visual display of waves surging toward shore, offering a strong spray back off the top of the waves. We sailed down the west coast of the island toward the only settlement, Hanga Roa, and found a good sandy spot to drop the hook in about 52 ft of water.

As is our new tradition, once we dropped the anchor and were satisfied that we were holding, we each cracked a beer and toasted to our successful passage. Panamanian beer tastes wonderful at 8am, especially when it’s your first in two weeks.

On VHF channel 16 we radioed, “Pascua Radio” and the officials told us they’d arrive at 11 local time. I had to ask, “sir, what is the local time here?” to confirm. In fact, we had the wrong hour on our chartplotter and our watches! Easter Island actually shares the same local time as Chile, its mother country. However, the island is 2000 miles west of the mainland, and this makes sunrise and sunset very late here. Instead of a more normal dawn and dusk, the sun rises around 8am and sets after 8pm. I’m not complaining. In fact, I much prefer this rhythm. In the Bahamas last November, the sun set around 5:30pm and our bed time was laughably early as a result. Now, we can more easily be on “Latin Time.”

Time zones aside, I like this place a lot so far. Beyond the natural beauty of both land and sea here, there are some serious waves! I surfed yesterday – my first reef break – and I’m hooked. The waves were so clean, powerful, and predictable. There are two breaks actually, separated by a channel that leads into the small harbor. I paddled out in the channel, and chose to start at the smaller, tamer break to the left. There is a patch of exposed rocks just outside of the breakers, and this was my target. I reached the point, and got in the lineup. The waves very predictably roll right through the rocky area, then stack up just inshore of them and this is the takeoff spot. I caught a half dozen great rights and called it a day. My surfing has improved remarkably! On my best wave, I was able to drop in and hit the lip, whoopah, a few times. Then, I spotted another surfer paddling out who was about to be directly in my path. Confident I could pull off the maneuver, I carved a bottom turn, and smacked the lip right before I was upon the surfer, and sprayed him a little. We were both having a great time, as evidenced by our beaming smiles. Perhaps soon I’ll paddle across the channel to the more aggressive break and give that a go.

I also confirmed with the officials that spearfishing here is completely legal. I’m excited to try my hand at spearing again, as it’s been a long time. I haven’t even fired my gun since November in the Keys! The water is very clear here right where we’re anchored, and there are a few dive buoys just offshore of us in about 50-60 feet. Hopefully we can find some good fish and get back on the wagon (or is it off?).

For now, we’ll attempt to find some internet, buy some provisions, check the weather, scope out a car or bike rental, and just enjoy this gorgeous land that we so painstakingly sailed to!