Tropical Sailing Adventures

11/27/11
We are moving along quite nicely and have enjoyed our first week in Panama. Checking into the country in Puerto Armuelles took about a half hour. We paid an agent to handle the coordination but would recommend this entry or exit point for any cruising boat with or without using an agent. Everyone who is needed to complete the process is closely located and there is a dinghy dock. (Come to think of it a panga came out right away and was ready to shuttle us in) The anchorage was rolly but we were in and out so quickly that it wasnt much of a bother. The officials were extremly pleasant and said that they couldnt understand why anyone would opt to check into the country in the city when it can take several hours and distance to travel. They told us their typical check in is about an hour or two. All the guide books suggest not going to this port to check in but we couldnt find one reason why? Where possible we try to avoid using a large city to check in as we have found the smaller towns to be much more friendly and accomodating to our needs. This town proved a wise choice.

We are in an island group called Isla Parrida. On our second day anchored here we were greeted by a lovely young couple in a small boat carrying a vine of bananas, coconuts, a bag of limes and one spiny lobster. We asked them how much they would like us to give them for these nice items and they shook their hands and said "nada, nada!". I was able to muster up a couple cokes, (which always adds a smile to any local in Central America) and a bag of smoked almonds. (Random) After the formal 'greetings' were over we tried to chat for over an hour. I say we tried as my Spanish is not coming along as quickly as i had hoped? We have had some lovely encounters with local islanders this week and i have vowed to spend at least 1 hour a day on my Spanish - enough is enough!

Later that evening we had our new friends return with 6 more spiny lobster and some local fish that we later found out was to die for! We paid him $10 this time and jumped in our dinghy and headed for a sugar white beach laden with palm trees around the corner. Our friends on s/v Perfect Wave had a bon-fire and we enjoyed an evening with fish, tenderloin, lobsters, two kinds of fish ceviche and capped the evening with marshmellow smores. The stars were out and it couldnt have been more enjoyable!

Yesterday we spent the day with a local Parrida family at their home. They own about 60 acres of beautiful land which overlooks a 180 degree view of the Pacific. The 16 year old daughter makes beaded jewelry and gave each of the ladies a pair of earings. The mother, Maria, (of course) made us a lovely pastry with a fresh homemade tropical jam that came from the tree just outside the home. The home was quite simple. It was square with a palm frond roof and a small loft that was accessible from cut outs in a laid up log. The floor was dirt but not in the least dirty. Senior Valentine showed us his palm oil batch and a little demonstration on how to ferment and make it. "We use the oil in everything and no cholesterol!" He exclaimed with a smile. After a walk through the property the kids played soccer on the beach and the adults congregated around the open air seating area. I swung in the hammock beside their son Angel while looking out to the blue horizon. We chatted in Spanish for and then just before we departed they gave us fresh picked baby mandrin oranges and cilantro from the property. Yes... things are slowing down quite nicely around here.

UPATED: 11/30/11
We arrived in Isla Secas yesterday and anchored off the main island of Cavata. It was an easy 3 hour motor from I. Parrida so we had plenty of energy to hop in the dighny and eagerliy check out the reef snorkeling. We haven't had clear water since Costa Rica so we have been looking forward to viewing the living reef in this area. We were pleasantly surprise with the abundance of tropical fish and we noticed a large number of conch. We didn't waste any time and quickly put (4) in the tender. Conch preparation is not for the faint of heart! OR...those without much practice at opening these large shells. I can remember from our last cruise that there was something about putting a hole near the top of the shell? Anyway - we returned to Maestro, grabbed the hammer and shells were flying everywhere. It wasn't a real delicate sight! It took a significant effort to get the snails to leave their homes but eventually we had success. I tenderized and breaded them to make CONCH FRITTERS and all that effort was worth it. They were delicious. Another gift from the sea!