Like many of the past few days, the west wind initially filled Sangaris' sails for a fast beam reach but then kept the crew busy with direction and velocity shifts calling for sail changes and lots of trimming. When the NW wind filled we flew the "ballooner" which, with its big horizontal red, white and blue stipes, looked like a huge Croatian flag as we entered Trogir's west-end bay. We circled the harbor to find a good spot to drop the hook and were all taken by the sight of Trogir's old town with its ancient town gates and remnants of the medieval wall. Founded by the Greeks in the third century BC, the tour guide calls Trogir "one of the most seductive towns on the Dalmation coast ... and, once ashore, we see that many other folks have read the same book. Nonetheless, we are seduced and happily wander the Riva (waterfront), around stretches of the old walls and through some back alleyways before we settle on the Konoba Fontana restaurant with its inviting large outdoor terrace. It is Dave and Merry's last night aboard and we indulge ourselves in traditionally and beautifully prepared seafood dishes. Split beckons early the next day and we reserve exploring the Venetian Gothic Cathedral, Town Loggia and Bishop's palace for another time.

Australian friends who we often chat with on the morning radio net stop by and give us a few city tips as we're anchoring. Keeping with their recommendations, we find an easy "tie-up" for the dinghy, scope out the fish market for the next morning's fresh catch, reccy the laundry and green market while we meander the chaotic and charming warren of narrow streets, shops and houses, chapels and churches, all built at various times on the site of the former palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Again we decide to postpone the serious touring of the historical sights as the crowds are 'heaving" and the mid-afternoon temps soaring, although somewhat mitigated by large scoops of lemon gelato. In early evening we bid our guests "do videnja" and fond farewells as they board the "Blue Line" ferry for an overnight crossing to Ancona, Italy.

Cruisers Note: The anchorage on the marina side was a good distance from ferry traffic and afforded easy access to the city sights, as well as provisions and laundry. We tied the dink to the town quay, did laundry at a DIY (or service) laundry behind the St Nicholas Chapel, shopped at the Konzum supermarket off the main street "Marmontova" and past the National Theater and, found an abundant selection of fresh fruit and veg at the green market (mornings best). Despite our usual frugal ways, we chose the convenient ACI for a 20 Euro water tank refill. We had no charge for anchoring in Split, but paid 150 Kunas on our own anchor at Trogir. Note: the rumor is true: there is an off-putting sewage odor in Split harbor ... and a lively music scene on the Riva that runs until the wee hours during the season's peak..