Bozburun, Turkey
07 October 2011
After a one night stop in now familiar Datça (rhymes with "gotcha" - remember?) we sailed SE to the pretty and very well-protected bays around Bozburun on Monday night. Although not apparent in the approach, once closer, the surrounding landscape divides into multiple islands encircling a 2 mile long bay with gorgeous anchorages and a village with a distinctive mosque at the north end. And, yes, this Turkish gem has bright turquoise waters, green hillsides and colorful produce markets. Like most cities in Turkey, there's the ever present statue of Mustafa Kemal - the "father of Turkey" or "Ataturk" (He's on the right - easily mistaken for Craig, who's actually the one on the left.)
Bozburun was once the Turkish equivalent of the Greek sponge fishing center of Simi; a modest tourism income from visiting private boats and multi-passenger "Gulets" (yacht or sailing ship in Turkish) now replaces that industry. In fact, many of these 70' to 100' wooden gulets that operate out of Bodrum and Marmaris are actually made and maintained along the Bozburun shores. And talk about "DIY" - look at the size of that big gullet seemingly on the beach in the bottom left pic - it was hauled using an antique wooden skid system and must have been labor intensive to say the least.
Tuesday was market day so we followed a trail of locals and international sailors to find the tent-like stalls filled with house-goods, clothing and abundant fresh and dried food selections. While the fruit, nuts and cheeses were tempting, the real draw were the spices, most 'handcrafted' and the vendors gave us small bits to rub between our fingers and inhale or taste the savory aromas. A great sales technique as several small bags of a dry rub with oregano, cardamom, garlic, thyme & various chiles will be tucked in our bags back to the U.S.
Somehow it is already Friday morning as I write this! See the next blog with photos from local hikes that became fun daily excursions. We also - finally - met up with fellow cruisers Carol & Gus aboard "Indigo" when an afternoon visit became an evening BBQ and lively conversations stretched long into night.
Cruisers' notes: The fresh sea breezes and surrounding clear waters make the anchorage near the N Kizil Adasi passage a delight; Sangaris' home for most of the week was "Oleander Bay" on the west side of Bozburun, anchored in 10 meters with excellent holding and 10 minute dinghy ride to the village. Laundry services (wash & dry) available at local restaurant "Adalasan"; 15 TL/load; a little pricey but well done and with hot water!