After another aborted attempt to sail west to Astipalaia, we finally gave up the Santorini plan and sailed smartly southeast to the island of Tilos. We'd stayed in the main harbor of Livadhiou last year so, for a change, Ormos Eristou was our bay of choice for anchoring. With its long entrance, high brown cliffs and 1+ mile wide beach, it seemed to be a perfectly calm stop, but the sea swell wrapped well into the harbor. Seeing every anchored boat rolling gunnel-to-gunnel when abreast of the swell, we immediately set bow and stern anchors and had a peaceful night.

Our morning hike to the chora (old town) was about 4 miles and yielded an abundance of fresh produce from roadside farmers clearing the season's end's melons and peppers ... not the easiest backpack fruits to carry, but Chief Sherpa Craig did just fine!

The afternoon's broad reach sail had us into the Panortmitis harbor on Symi's south coast just before a magnificent sunset. Gorgeous lighting made for lovely evening and view of the imposing shore-side monastery with its unique bell tower.

Fortunately, we anticipated the en-masse arrival of day-trippers from Rhodes and toured the monastery, its ecclesiastical and folk museums without crowds the next morning. The Holy Monastery of Taxiarchis Michael Panormitis (The archangel Michael is patron saint of sailors and the island of Symi) is a treasury of Orthodox faith and Greek-Orthodox culture. It has been a spiritual site with a history of miracles for centuries and today retains many Gothic art influences from the passage of the Crusaders. Each museum displayed fine relics, including sailing ship models ("the fleet of Tachiarxos") and a multitude of offerings that, even today, arrive by sea. The former monks' quarters are now rented rooms for visitors (most 'on retreat') OK with sparse cell-like accommodation.

Cruiser's Notes: The harbor's narrow entrance is difficult to see until you're close, but a large white windmill makes a conspicuous landmark. There were 30+ boats at anchor when we arrived late afternoon; about half were stern tied to the shore, the rest of us on free anchors - ours close to the beachfront taverna. We did not explore the depths in the shallower NE corner, but it looks to provide the best protection in any strong winds. Ferries from Rhodes make daily stops and, in season, bring hundreds of tourists to see this sacred site. No anchoring/mooring charge. Look for the bakery tucked behind a small fruit and veg vendor for nice breads and apple pies!