Pag ~ Anchored at Svetojanj … or is it the Moon?
09 August 2009 | Uh, Pag!
After a swim to cool down from our afternoon in Rab and with a NW breeze filling, we decided to set off for a three hour sail to an anchorage on the NE point of Pag. The sailing was ideal- a comfortable beam reach all the way. But as went south along the Pag coastline we could not believe the dramatic change in the terrain. This 40 mile long and narrow island parallels the Croatia mainland and is not a frequent stopover for touring and charter sailboats as the channel between - the Velebit Channel - is notorious for gusty "Bora" winds. Or, perhaps there is no crowd because of its stark, brown landscape. Pag's pumice-like stone constantly scrubbed bare by the Boras seems not to support any green life ~ what a dramatic contrast to the lushness of Rab.
Svetojanj Bay, with a tiny island in the middle, provided a safe horseshoe-like cove that was all ours after a handful of day-tripping power boats took their leave. Sitting in the cockpit for dinner admiring the weird moon-like scenery we were amazed to see hundreds of sheep come running along the hillside, nose-to-the-ground seeking out little bits of sage and other herbs. They scoured the dry hill and soon disappeared, perhaps back to a paddock with some real food! But the travel guide does suggest that we must taste the distinctive sheep's milk cheese, flavored with sea salt and sage; it must be true!