Paul............

MADEIRA TO THE CANARY ISLANDS

On Saturday 22nd September we left Madeira in very strong winds gusting up to Gale Force! Under normal circumstances we would never go to sea in bad weather but in this case the anchorage in Funchal had become untenable and dangerous.

At 09.00 Mick and Bee from 'Hannah' had left for the Canaries in little wind, we spoke to them at 10.00 on the VHF and they were barely making 3 knots.

We had planned to leave Funchal at 13.00 and went ashore to update the blog - failed attempt - and to do some last minute shopping for stores, however, within the space of an hour the wind had increased dramatically to the extent that our 300 metre dinghy trip back to Sareda was not only difficult but also very wet, the anchorage being quite open to the South and East from where the wind was blowing.

By the time we were back on board the swell was considerable and we packed the dinghy, stowed the necessary items ready for sea and left with Lin bravely controlling Sareda from the helm as I fought to get the anchor up and stowed while trying to keep our balance in the heaving sea.

As we left a Swedish aluminium yacht was dragging its anchor, a catamaran near us was weaving all over the place and a family steel yacht broke it's anchor cable and was being blown ashore - we were very glad to be clear and out to sea. We later heard that the steel yacht had been saved - thank goodness!

Our passage to the Canaries was not a comfortable time with a big swell running and strong winds which sometimes dropped only to increase again when I had shaken out the reefs. This kept us very much on our toes and with continual sail changes, interrupted our sleep and rest, however we did make a fast passage.

Lin...........

By nightfall a heavy swell had developed - it was difficult to see the horizon from below or even sat in the cockpit due to its height. We have a rule that nobody goes into the cockpit at night without a life-jacket and harness and being tied on. Every 10-15 minutes we ventured out to stand on the seat and check for other traffic - we saw nothing until 5.30pm the following day when a ship was sighted and then another at 5.40pm it is no use being complacent.

The passage was very uncomfortable - especially the first 24 hours but we were making good headway and it became apparent we were going to arrive a good 18 hours ahead of our anticipated time of arrival. We did not wish to arrive after nightfall due to the number of unmarked reefs in the area so Paul spent a lot of time tweaking the sails in order to obtain maximum speed possible. It worked, we dropped anchor at Francesca Bay, Graciosa, into crystal clear water, just as the sun was setting.

Lin...............

ISLA GRACIOSA

According to the pilot book Isla Graciosa is a small island off the Northernmost tip of Lanzarote and is only 6 � km x 3 km. It is flat and sandy with four volcanic cones. It has no made-up roads and a small population living in the villages of Caleta del Sebo and nearby Pedro Barba. The pilot states that so long as development can pass it by, Isla Graciosa will remain one of the most appealing spots in the entire Canaries. 'When you land' a Lanzarotean said 'you can take off your shoes and forget the world' - We did!!

When I awoke the next morning Paul was still sleeping. I looked out and saw four yachts, one of which was 'Solara'. Peter had left Madeira shortly after us intending to sail off-shore and heave-to overnight until the heavy winds had subsided and return to Madeira the next day as there was more he wanted to see. However, he later heard a weather forecast promising more strong winds the next day so therefore decided to follow us to the Canaries.

During the afternoon of our first day on Graciosa, Peter came aboard for a drink and we all decided to go ashore and walk to Caleta del Sebo the small village further up the coast.

It took us approx 50minutes along a sand track which is very soft in places - if the tide is out some parts are more easily negotiable on the shoreline.

Caleta del Sebo had abundant charm and walking around the village you feel you have stepped back 100 years - although most of the dwellings are new single story and glimpses of the interior look well equipped, the lifestyle is very laid back and early evening brings out the older residents who sit on a wooden bench alongside the wall of one of the local bars.

We decided to eat ashore that night and Paul and I enjoyed a very good vegetarian pizza, Paul's first in over 12 years, whilst Peter decided on a shellfish paella which he declared superb.

Whilst waiting to eat we were approached by Don and Aggie who asked if they could join us. Some avid blog readers may remember we met this couple in La Coruna, Northern Spain. They hail from Australia and have been cruising for five years in their boat 'Honey Moon'. They had previously spent many years sailing taking their offspring with them, but on this cruise, the children, now being much older, decided to remain in Australia.

We all had a very pleasant evening and returned to the boat along the moonlit track, tired but content.

The following day a 25ft wooden Virtue boat anchored in the bay. We had seen Shirley - a small but very fit 60 year old single-hander from Cape Town in Madeira but had not had the opportunity to speak to her. On the 28th we rowed over in the dinghy to ask if she had any books to swap - this is a common practice amongst sailors as it is a rare occurrence to find English books for sale. She invited us aboard for a drink and we enjoyed a very pleasant afternoon.

Shirley, with Sinbad her cat, left South Africa five years ago and sailed to Brazil. Whilst there she had her boat lifted out of the water and she spent many months single handedly preparing and then epoxying her to make her water tight. She then proceeded through the Caribbean islands, the Azores, Madeira and now Graciosa - she is hoping to continue down to the Cape Verdes and back to Brazil again - she says Brazil should not be missed - but I am not sure if I could cope with the humidity and both Paul and I are prone to mosquito bites, so we are still mulling this one over.

On the 29th, Paul's birthday, Peter and Shirley came aboard and we celebrated with a few drinks - we did not go ashore at all that day but enjoyed relaxing on the boat.

On the 30th we decided to climb the extinct volcano behind Francesca Bay. Both Peter and Shirley had achieved this previously and declared the view from the top amazing - it was - my lungs, forever my weakest point, found the last 100ft very demanding but the view from the top was well worth the effort. Much care had to be taken on the descent as the small volcanic cinders shifted under foot and one could easily slide to the bottom if not vigilant.

By Monday 1st October there were sixteen boats in the bay, mainly French, but it was time for us to move into the marina as we were flying home on the 4th - Paul for one week, myself for two.

As we pulled into our berth at the marina we were enthusiastically welcomed by Martin and Roma from 'Apple' who had recently arrived - they too were flying home, but for a month, to ready their home for new tenants. We were invited aboard for a drink that evening together with Tony who has a steel 33ft Ebbtide called 'Shamsuddin' - Arabic for sunshine.

Tony is English but now lives in Portugal on the Guardienne River which divides Portugal and Spain, with his wife Christine. Christine is not a long haul sailor but is joining him to cruise the Canaries.

We had a delightful evening only marred by the fact we had to be up early the next day to catch the 08.00 ferry to Orzola on Lanzarote.

We were going to Lanzarote to register our ship's papers and work out the most time and cost efficient way to reach Lanzarote airport on the 4th. After alighting from the ferry we caught the bus to Arrecife the capital - nearly an hour's journey for approximately �2. Once there we worked out the feasibility of a further bus to the airport which would have cost 70p each, but time constraints prohibited this and we decided a taxi from Orzola was the only viable option - �28 compared to less than �6 - but it ensured we would catch the plane, so gave us peace of mind. We also booked rooms at a small 'pension' for our return trips - Paul on the 11th and myself on the 18th - as the plane arrived in Lanzarote too late for the last ferry to Graciosa. These were very reasonable at �12.60 per room.

We had a very frustrating time attempting to register the ship's papers - our main concern with doing this was to prevent any queries at the airport ie 'How can you be leaving the Canaries when you haven't officially arrived?' In the end, utterly exhausted, we gave up and fortunately did not encounter any of the imagined difficulties.

On our last evening before the flight Tony invited us aboard 'Shamsuddin' with Martin and Roma and we had another delightful evening.

Paul.........

It was great to see Mum & Dad, Michelle, Lin's Mum & Dad, Lucy, Dave, Bethan, Avril & Vernon, Dave & Barbara and all the others we met during my week back but I returned to Graciosa feeling rather lonely without Lin. We had hardly been apart since we moved onto the boat in May and I did miss her.

Sareda was fine but covered with a fine coating of sand from a scirroco wind blowing from the Sahara so a wash down was required and throughout the week I caught up with jobs on the boat including reconditioning the toilet system, pipes and pumps - not a pleasant job but a necessary part of our maintenance. I had a good shower afterwards!

Lin............

I arrived back in Graciosa on the 19th October having spent a wonderful two weeks at home. It was a very busy time trying to catch up with friends and relatives. I know I missed some of you and for that I am sorry - hopefully I will see you in February when we return for Michelle's wedding (Paul's daughter)

It was strange arriving back on the boat, because although we have 'no fixed abode' I very much felt on stepping aboard 'Sareda' that I had arrived home. Within minutes of my arrival we had been invited to a get together in the evening - bring a bottle and some nibbles - which was to be held on the harbour wall and organised by one of the other long distance sailors.

We met many people that evening including a couple called Lyn and Kenny. Lyn, like myself, suffers from 'Mal de Mer'. They carried extra crew crossing Biscay as she knew she would be too debilitated to keep any watches and didn't want Kenny to be single-handed. I gave her some of the tablets I have been taking and sincerely hope they will work as well for her as they have done for me - she is going home for a week or two on the 13th November, so will be able to get some more if so.

Another couple we spent time chatting to were Frank and Tari, a retired couple from America who have a catamaran 'Vision'. They are an amazing pair now on the eighth year of their original three year voyage. Whilst on passage between Portugal and Madeira, Tari broke her ankle - she thought it was only a sprain and continued to move on it - however, she had the most excellent care in Madeira and has now had the plaster cast removed and is on crutches with a strapped on leg and ankle support.

Today we walked back to the anchorage at Francesca Bay wondering whether we would anchor for a night or two before sailing to Teneriffe and Gran Canaria. On our return, we were walking on the quay and admiring a steel boat that was ashore for re-painting. We stopped to talk to the owner and discovered he came from Exeter too - what a small world.

After visiting the 'supermercado' we stopped by 'Vision' to see how Tari was. We were invited aboard and were amazed at the space and facilities. There are four separate bedrooms all very spacious and air conditioned, one of which they have changed into a laundry room complete with washing machine and tumble drier - they also have a full-size fridge-freezer. The lounge area is huge and also the outside area with table and chairs to adequately seat eight-ten people. Not only was their catamaran huge but so were the drinks they gave us - I bravely struggled through the half pint glass of vodka & tonic they presented to me! They made us so welcome and afterwards we all went ashore to the small caf�/bar where we had another very enjoyable vegetable pizza - we hope to meet them again further along the voyage.

Tomorrow I hope to update the blog before sailing on the cruise some of the other islands.