Last time we were at Kusadasi in 2009 Pam was not well so we did not visit what is reportedly the most visited archaeological site in Turkey - Ephesus. The original site was occupied by the Ionians in 1000 BC (although the history goes back to the 7th century BC) and there has, as is par for the course in these places, being many occupiers who have all built, destroyed and rebuilt. It survived the conquest by Alexander the Great in 334 BC and he partly funded the construction of the temple with the deal being that it be dedicated to himself. When the temple was finished it was regarded as one of the seven wonders of the world but known as the Temple of Artemis.
The Virgin Mother Mary's house near Ephesus
The Syrians, Egyptians and Persians and others have all been part of the history of Ephesus but the Romans had the biggest influence when they named Ephesus capital of Asia Minor and the population grew to 250,000. Ephesus was the centre of the cult of Cybele and she was the Anatolian fertility goddess. Cybele became Artemis under the Ionians and then Diana under the Romans. She was the virgin goddess of the hunt and the moon. Not to sure if this Diana had anything to do with the golden arrow?
The house where the Virgin Mary spent her last days is just up the hill from the ruins and she was apparently cared for by John the Evangelist during her time at Ephesus. We visited the house and it is certainly in a very tranquil setting. St Paul visited the city in 53 AD and spent three years there.
The city was ultimately destroyed by the Goths in 262 AD although there were various rebuilding attempts in subsequent years. Clearly no lessons have been learn't over the centuries. Ephesus used to be a coastal town but the valley eventually got silted up and it is now 5 k's inland. Once silted up and sacked by the Goths its significance as a city diminished.
Ephesus - the impressive Library of Celsus
The site is well worth a visit and that explains the presence of the cruise ships that moor in the bay off Kusadasi. We met an English couple at the marina and again at Ephesus who had last visited 5 years ago and they commented as to how much excavations had been done since they last visited. Excavations began after the site was discovered around 1904 and they continue.
While at Kusadasi and on board someone called from the walkway "is Keith on board." I went out and found a guy I had never seen before but who transpired to be an Australian (Richard) who has a Hanse 540 in Sydney and who I had exchanged emails with several times over the last year or two via the MyHanse website. He has just launched a Shipman 72 (red) and after a few beers on Savarna we went around to inspect his new toy. Stunning boat, built in carbon, carbon rig and PBO rigging etc.
So Tuesday 7th June we continued the northward passage and motor sailed the 40 mile passage to the small town of Sigacik near the archaeological site of Teos. Also a well known windsurfing region. There is a new marina there where we stopped overnight as did the Shipman 72 team. I have found it useful to carry the boat documents and papers around in the EMYR bag as that is well recognised in the Turkish marinas and attracts comment as well as the occasional discount.
From Sigacik it was more motor sailing (with main up only) as we headed 60 odd miles further north eventually stopping at the small fishing port of Dalyankoy, that is near Cesme. The town basin was to shallow for us but we anchored off the beach outside the entrance for the night and dinghied ashore for a look around and to buy some fresh fish given the continuing lack of the special lure to attract anything other than the occasional bit of seaweed.
Thursday 9th June was yet another 60 mile day northwards, again motor sailing when we went as far as Ayvalik and stayed at the Setur marina for the night. Setur marinas are never the cheap option and we ended up on a berth that was to short but fortunately it was a calm night. To get to Ayvalik it is necessary to pass through quite a narrow channel, well marked though, and then enter what is referred to as the "inland lake." It is a lovely area and we ought to have chilled out and spent a couple of days there but we were on a north bound mission. The slopes behind the town are covered in pine and olive trees to make it an attractive setting. The topography is changing as we move and the mountainous of the south east is replaced by rolling cultivated farmlands turned over to cropping. In 1923 the Greeks in the town were essentially removed and swapped for Turks from Crete, Lesbos and Macedonia. Was this an early version of ethnic cleansing?
Waterfront at Ayvalik
Just off the coast from here is the Greek island of Lesbos which is reputedly where lesbianism originated. A good marketing story for the island if nothing else.
The Pilot referred to an excellent fish restaurant in the old customs building at the end of the wharf so we walked around to see if it measured up. We had a good meal with a selection of messe dishes followed by sea bass. It was an interesting evening as most of the people were locals and English was not spoken. The sea bass came on its own and the young waiter did not know how to open a bottle of wine! The locals do not seem to drink wine with their meals but go straight to raki - with water added!
The next day saw another 60 mile push to the north to the island of Bozcaada. This was a military base for many years but has now opened up and we were the only yacht tied up to the town quay. In fact we have seen very few yachts to date - at best 2 or 3 a day. The island has had a history of wine making - reds, and after tying up a few of the locals, including the guy who appeared to be the harbour master, sitting at a nearby restaurant invited us over for a glass of wine. Served chilled from an unlabelled bottle but very good drinking. Bozcaada is the closest island and only 10 miles from the entrance to the 40 mile long Dardenelle Straits. We had an extensive walk around what proved to be an attractive town but like many others we have visited there are many restaurants and few people. We sat in the cockpit and had dinner listening to someone playing a violin from high up across the bay at the military headquarters.
Castle at Bozcaada Island
Saturday 11th June saw us off for an early start as we knew we would be pushing a strong current (up to 4 knots) and the NE wind as we entered the Dardenelles - destination Canakkale about 15 miles up the straits.
That's it for now.
Cheers
Keith & Pam