By Thursday 9th April it was time to depart Martinique and the plan was to sail northwards to the Commonwealth of Dominica (pronounced Dom-in-eek-a) the former British island with a population of around 80,000. Now self governing with the Westminster system of government. And also not to be confused with The Dominican Republic, that is on he same island as Haiti.
The planned sail was to the capital Roseau around a 50 mile sail involving a 24 mile sail across the open water between the islands. It was quite windy, just ahead of the beam, sailing at an apparent wind angle of 60 degrees, with one reef in the main and a partly furled headsail. We passed a couple of decent sized cats that were inshore of us and I was impressed that at that angle although we dropped one off about half way across the other hung in all the way.
Underway with Volker keen to land the big one!
Alice and Xavier were not overly comfortable - Alice being seasick and Xavier just unhappy with the motion.
It was a fast passage however and as we got in towards Roseau it looked pretty uninviting so we decided to push on to what is described as the best anchorage on the island - Portsmouth in Prince Rupert Bay. At least by this time we were sailing in the lee so fast and flat water. About 7 miles out of Portsmouth a local boat with Albert on board came alongside and offered us a mooring in Prince Rupert Bay which we accepted. So all in all a 70 mile sail for the day!
Approaching Prince Rupert Bay
Closing in on Prince Rupert Bay
We stayed in Prince Rupert Bay for four nights. The Imray Pilot (a translation from French) is well out of date - they describe Prince Rupert Bay as a haven for all sorts of nefarious activity involving various scams amongst the boat boys. Our mate Albert told us that a few years back the real boat boys had formed PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) , built a pavilion on the beach and set about sorting the place out. So now there are licensed (and also licenced as tour operators) boat boys (men), they collect the rubbish every day (as previously when taken ashore the dogs got into it and scattered rubbish everywhere) and bring out provisions to the boats. There were quite a few boats in the Bay, which is big and open to the west, but it does appear to blow all the time because of the surrounding topography - mountains, regardless of the conditions further out to sea, and also gets a fair amount of rain.
Our friend and guide Albert
Dominica markets itself as an eco-foccussed island with an emphasis on nature. Albert took us on the Indian River (a World Heritage site) expedition described as a mini-Amazon. Great trip for 3 hours up the river, rowing as outboards are not permitted.
Exploring the Indian River
The Indian River - part of the Pirates of the Caribbean film set
More of the Indian River
Rum bar at the turnaround point in the Indian River
Finally drinking the rum cocktail - very strong!
Albert also arranged a day long tour around the island which has 365 rivers, 256 types of fern etc etc. The island is mountainous with the two highest peak nearly 5,000 feet each all on an island and of course covered in tropical rainforest. Our driver did stop at many places and at one stage took us to a large tree and cut off a piece of bark and said smell that - it was cinnamon.
Hey Dad the bananas are still green
We also visited the Carib Indian settlement on the east coast. This is an area where the Caribs live and the population is around 3,000. It is a very rugged, sparsely populated, little visited island although cruise ships now call in at Rosseau. Portsmouth is quite the shanty town having been devastated by hurricane David in 1979.
Looking over the Carib settlement on the east coast
Emerald Pool in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park - another World Heritage Site
Every Sunday night all the yachties in the Bay are invited to a BBQ dinner ashore put on by PAYS in their building adjoining the beach. Free rum punch and then music and dancing to follow. A good way to interact with other yachties in the Bay. Xavier also attended and had a great time.
In the book Letters from the Caribbean we read of a restaurant called Indigo that was high in the mountain overlooking the Bay and built as a tree house. So after a few enquiries we found a taxi driver to take us up there to this very remote house only to find that the woman who runs it had not offered meals for the last 4 years!! So it was back down to Portsmouth for what can only be described as a very local meal - the choices are always easy, fish, fish and sometimes chicken.
After four nights here (and quite a bit if heavy rain) it was time to move further north to another French Department, namely Guadeloupe.
Restored British Fort at northern entrance to Prince Rupert Bay
Cheers
Keith & Pam