s/v Libertad

26 May 2017
20 May 2017
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
18 May 2017 | Isla Providencia
17 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
16 May 2017 | Grand Cayman to Isla Providencia
09 May 2017 | Grand Cayman
04 May 2017 | Cienfuegos, Cuba
03 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
02 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
01 May 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
28 April 2017 | Jardines de la Reina, Cuba
27 April 2017
26 April 2017 | Cayman Islands
20 April 2017
18 April 2017

Unloading Libertad in Ensenada

03 July 2017
We got word that the freighter would arrive in Ensenada the afternoon of July 1st and would thus be unloading early the next morning, depending on when they could get a spot at the commercial pier cleared.

Early morning on Fri. July 1, Dennis took the Amtrak train down to San Diego, a shuttle bus to the Mexican border, walked across the border-clearing into the country, and then boarded an ABC bus for the 90 minute ride down to Ensenada.

While enroute he got a message saying they had scheduled us to unload at 11am that day. Don't know what happened - perhaps the boat arrived a full day early, but there was no way Dennis would be in Ensenada until late in the afternoon. They said they would figure something out and rearrange us. But this took numerous phone calls and emails among Virginia, Dennis, and our assigned agent in Ensenada. When Dennis arrived Libertad had been unloaded and was sitting alongside the freighter. The water taxi dropped Dennis at our boat and left. Dennis could not reach anyone on the freighter to ask for them to untie our dock lines and he couldn't reach them from Libertad's deck. He even rapped on their hull with our plastic mallet to no avail. After another set of phone calls among Virginia (still back in Santa Barbara), Dennis, our agent, and various officials with the transport company, we finally got word to the freighter crew and someone dropped our lines.

This story could go on for pages, but the short story is that Dennis had to stay in Ensenada for a few days to make arrangements with the boatyard and customs officials on Monday. We had heard a lot of horror stories about expired Temporary Import Permits, and we were prepared with all the required backup documentation to get ours cancelled and a new one issued, but.....it turns out that when they put our 2004 permit in the system they transposed some of the number of the paper permit so this mismatch requires us to send a lot of paperwork to Mexico city and wait for them to cancel the old before we can get issued the new. Unbelievable. Since Dennis basically spent the full day with Customs on this issue (thank you to the Baja Naval spanish speaking staff member who accompanied Dennis on this all day errand), he got to San Diego very late in the day. He had missed the Amtrak train and Greyhound buses to Santa Barbara. He was only able to get as far as Los Angeles. Virginia met him downtown LA at 11pm at the Greyhound station and got him home safe, but a bit exhausted and crazed.

We are now awaiting a schedule from the boatyard for the TLC we want to do to Libertad before sailing her home to Santa Barbara. We will most likely be making a few trips back and forth to Ensenada before we have Libertad berthed in Santa Barbara.

Loading Libertad in Panama

16 June 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We got a scheduled loading date from the freighter company and Dennis flew down to Panama on June 14 to load Libertad for its transport through the canal and up the west coast of Central America to Ensenada. He was able to get a round trip ticket from Santa Barbara to Panama City.

There was a bit of confusion caused by a lack of any communication with our assigned agent, but Dennis got the boat successfully loaded and flew home on June 15. There was a long delay in Houston which made him miss his Santa Barbara connection in LA. And his plane arrived so late that the Santa Barbara shuttle bus wasn't running. Virginia drove down to LAX and met him at 2 am. There was very little traffic on the road so the round trip was just about 4 hours. Not bad.

We were very happy that this got him home before June 20 when our Johns' family reunion started in the Santa Barbara area!

Home in Santa Barbara

26 May 2017
We flew home on Friday the 26th on a direct flight from Panama to Los Angeles. A 2 hour shuttle ride north got us into Santa Barbara about 10:30pm. Our son picked us up and delivered us home.

The transport company is updating us every few days and the date for loading Libertad in Panama has slipped a day or two since we arrived back home. So we are happy that we aren't sitting in the heat and humidity of Panama but instead are doing our waiting back home with family and friends. When we get a firm loading date, Dennis will take a quick round trip run to Panama to load Libertad on the freighter. He will then return home to be a part of the Johns family reunion while we await word of the arrival date of the freighter in Ensenada. We will take a train ride to San Diego and several buses across the border and down to Ensenada to meet Libertad.

For now we can enjoy visiting with our family and enjoying our home town.

All's well.

in Panama and Coming Home!

24 May 2017
We arrived here in Colon, Panama on Monday around 0900. As we noted in our short position reports, the first day of the passage was rough with big seas and all but Dennis got a bit seasick. The second day was much calmer - no wind so we had to motor, but seas flattened out and we all recovered and could eat a bit.
We were buddy boating with our friends on Kali Mera (Herbert and Tadeya from Vienna). We spoke 4 times each day on the radio. One time we used SSB as the VHF transmission was a bit noisy, but we are such similar boats that we were within VHF range the whole time. Their boat is an Amel Santorin, the newer version of our Maramu, so 46' ketch, like us. We enjoy this couple very much.

We immediately needed to get rolling with our agent in Panama to start the process of checking us in to Panama and arranging all the paperwork for putting Libertad on the freighter. When we met with him, some of the fees sounded a bit high, so we put him on hold. Now that we have talked with the transport company United Yacht Transport, who contracted with this agent, I think things will get more reasonable. We are waiting to hear back from the agent.


Yesterday we got the news that the freighter is delayed. It won't be leaving Everglades, Florida until June 7, and with a 3 day transport, it will arrive here June 10. We do not want to sit here in this heat and humidity for 2 more weeks, so we are flying home to Santa Barbara this Friday, May 26. Dennis will fly back here a couple days before transport loading and move Libertad over to the freighter by himself. We are in Shelter Bay Marina and they are supposedly loading in the anchorage just outside the marina. Then he will come back to Santa Barbara and await delivery of Libertad to Ensenada....no date estimated for that yet, but the freighter makes several stops between Panama and Ensenada (Costa Rica and La Paz) so it will take some time.

In the meantime, we are preparing the boat for transport, removing sails, lashing down kayaks, stowing dinghy, eating/giving away fresh food, laundry, etc. And we are enjoying meeting yet another great group of cruisers.

Thankfully the marina has a pool and about 4pm each day, when we can't take any more of the heat, we cool off up there. Yesterday we took the marina shuttle into Colon....not a place where we want to be walking around - looks very scary. It was an interesting ride as Colon city is across the canal from the marina. On the way over we took a bridge that opens up periodically between boats going through the canal. On the way back we took the car ferry that makes the crossing at specified times. That allowed us to see the new larger canal. Six of us took a taxi from the marina shuttle drop off point over to Immigration and Customs at the port. Then we took a taxi back to the mall/supermarket where the marina shuttle would meet us.

All's well. We are very anxious to be home and see family and friends!

day 2 enroute to Panama

21 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
It was a wild night, but this afternoon we got the calming of the winds that was predicted, which is also starting to flatten out the seas. We are feeling a bit better and even able to eat something. Of the four of us travelling in the two boats, only Dennis did not get any mal de mer...fortunately for Virginia as he is good about taking on her duties while she recovers! She was able to do her watches last night so he got some rest....can't really sleep with the boat rocking and rolling so much.

But things are calmer now, we are motor sailing a straight line to Colon and if things don't change we will be there in about 15-16 hours.

All's well aboard.

on to Panama

20 May 2017
Virginia and Dennis Johns
We left Isla Providencia at 11:00am. Weather reports were for some high winds and big seas for the first part of our trip and then little wind on the second day. First day has proven to match the reports - wild ride! A bit calmer right now, but doubtful that we'll get much sleep. Should arrive Colon, Panama Monday midday.

All's well aboard
Vessel Name: Libertad
Vessel Make/Model: Amel Maramu, 46'
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Dennis Johns, Virginia Johns
About:
We bought our Amel in 2000 and spent the next 11 years preparing for our retirement cruise - a westward circumnavigation. We are members of the Santa Barbara Sail and Power Squadron and have taken many of the USPS courses. [...]
Libertad's Photos - Cambodia
Photos 1 to 116 of 116 | Main
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Wat, our appropriately named tuk-tuk driver taking us to our first sighting of the ancient temple complex
Wat the Heck?  The approach to Angkor Wat is a hike in itself.
The moat with ruins in the distance
Steps...always lots of steps
Nearly every inch of surface carved with intricate relief.
Once through the entry, your walk has only just begun.
Looking back on where we entered, there are several structures on either side of the walkway to explore -and of course we did.
Note white plastered sections where they are restoring the ruins.
Entrance to the main temple structure.
Carved stone, this detail would be difficult to achieve in wood.
This gives you an idea of how long the passage is which will help you appreciate the next photos.
The entire stone wall of the passage has carved armies going into battle.
Nearly all the columns have detailed carving.
These window bars are not identical but they must have been done with some kind of stone lathe.
Looks like a warrior riding on the back of a large flightless bird.
Back of the main temple -exit leads to the wall around the complex.
Tug-of-war going on over some larger-than-life deity.
A royal being carried to the battle scene.
One of several active Buddha altars in the complex.
Standing, smiling Buddha.
Three levels to the main temple -yes we climbed into each one.
Lathe-turned stone bars were in every window although time was taking its toll on them.
The trip to the third level was a steep.
One of the five stone domes.
A room with a view to the entrance to the complex.
One of the other five domes, with Virginia in the lower right corner you get a sense of the size and the amount of carving.
Very deeply carved relief.
The three of the five domes together.  Other domes are less well-preserved.
Walked down the exit road to the wall which had the occasional gate.  Dennis taking a rest in the window.
While there are Buddha altars throughout, most carved images such as this are Hindu.
View from the gate wall two photos back.
As we were leaving Angkor Wat, we passed this area where they were making renovation pieces.
Angkor Thom: While Angkor Wat is "the city of Temples", Angkor Thom is "the Great City", a complex that includes temples and is even larger than Angkor Wat.  The first structure we toured there was the temple Bayon.
Bayon was built after Angkor Wat and yet is less well-preserved although these hindu images were still sharp.
Note carved face in tower on left.
Close up of face.  Towers had faces on four sides.
Passages formed a maze with lots of dead ends.
More faces on towers.
Several towers right next to each other.
Carved arms protruding from Hindu images.
Another long entry -we took a short cut through the wall on the right from Angkor Wat and another to the left to the next structure.  Note unused stones littering area.
Baphuon Temple: Built on a sand base the temple has been unstable and subject to more collapse.  We didn
Built as a "mountain temple" there were lots of steep steps getting in.
Plenty of Hindu carvings everywhere.
Umbrellas for shade were a good idea.
Borders around the scenes probably took longer to do than the scenes.
Going down was scarier than going up.
View from another side.
Our short cut gate to the next site.
This was the entry to a subterranean hallway of stone carvings that circled an area called the Terrace of the Leper King.
Discoloration and moss growing on the stone gives it the appearance of leprosy and an Angkorian king, Yasovarman I, actually did have leprosy.
The structure honors Hindu god Yama, the god of death and has several images of five and seven-headed snakes.  This one is on a corner.
Ta Prohm: This temple has been left in original condition -being reclaimed by the jungle over the centuries. Note tree on the left growing over the crumbling stones.
There has been some shoring up to prevent collapses. See wood shoring around entrance.
More shoring up.
The center of the temple was crowded so we took a walk around the outside and found this tree.  They had built a huge bamboo structure to keep the tree stable.
Another tree conquering the temple.
Exterior wall detailed with red stone.
Now inside temple showing columns and Hindu images.
Moss and jungle growth taking over.
Main attraction: The temple of Ta Prohm was used as a location in the film Lara Croft, Tomb Raider.
Wonderfully artistic tree root system.  We didn
Had enough temples for one day, on our way  back to the hotel, decorations for New Year across road.
Source of decorations.
Nighttime is lit up.
Intimate theater for Phrare circus performance.
No animal acts, just these guys performing very impressive juggling and acrobatics.
On our hike to Kbal Spean, The River of a Thousand Lingas, a linga being a Hindu phallic symbol.  Couldn
Flora along the way.
Fauna along the way.
Images carved into the river bed and adjoining rock faces.
The rows of little bumps are the lingas -these phallic symbols are not nearly as interesting as the other images carved in the river bed.
Got to ask yourself what possessed them to sit down and execute these carvings out in the middle of nowhere.
Makes interesting ripples.
Riders on a hippopotamus or a very fat horse..
Was a 2 km hike to get here but it was worth it.
Kids having loads of fun in the waterfall & slide into the pool.  It was certainly tempting to join them.
Pretty blue butterflies gathering for a drink.
Bunches of them.
This was the dry season, so we got to see images that are submerged during the wet season.
Lord Vishnu in a reclining repose, partially destroyed by erosion.
Now these lingas have a phallic quality to them but it
Lord Vishnu in a reclining repose lying on the serpent god Ananta, with Goddess Lakshmi at his feet and Lord Brahma on a lotus petal.
Three-headed Hindu god.
Designs for a moat and wall as we
Angkor Wat on the left, so these were carved after that construction.
Headed back to the tuk-tuk, stopped to admire the size of this twisted vine.
View of the valley in Kbal Spean National Park.
Banteay Srei, the Citidel of the Women or the Citidel of Beauty.
The floor and uncarved walls were made of porous volcanic ash while the carved surfaces were red sandstone.
Reconstructed entry arch.
Deep relief carvings are typical.  Banteay Srei is known for the intricacy of its carvings.
Another intricate archway.
Archway supported by carved octagonal columns.
Monkey statues and vast amount of deep relief carving.
Eaves and roof were detailed as well.
Truly overwhelming.
Nice that these temples are respected by the locals and have not been subjected to graffiti.
Drainage system.
Landmine Museum and Relief Center
Entrance lined by unexploded, defused bomb shells.
Owner/founder, Aki Ra, has dug up, defused, and collected thousands of land mines, mortar shells, bombs, grenades, etc. over the years and still has all his arms and legs.  He continues his work today.
Moat around Angkor Thom on our way back to the hotel from our last day tour.
Procession of gaily dressed young people, presumably celebrating the New Year.
Great costumes.
Let
Dancer
Dance had an element of yoga as she would make very slow and deliberate steps and then hold for a time.
Her hands seemed double-jointed.
Let
That
Mostly women danced with women and men with men but occasionally they would mix it up.
Butterfly costume very delicate and effective.
Harvest dance, women wiping brow from hard work.
Dance Queen back for encore.
Enjoying nighttime decorations as we wait for our 30 minute late ride back to the hotel.
 
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