Sailing around the world on the traditional gaff rigged schooner Windjammer
Off the beaten track & other interesting places
| Vessel Name: | Schooner Windjammer |
| Vessel Make/Model: | Pete Culler - Integrity Schooner |
| Hailing Port: | Airlie Beach, Queensland, Australia |
| Crew: | Ashley & Cathie Kerr |
| About: | We set off in December 2010 to continue our cruising adventures around the world after 25 years owning and operating a yacht charter company in the Whitsunday Islands - Australia |
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09 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Williams to Ushuaia
13th Jan Ashley completed the Armada formalities and we departed Puerto Williams in sunshine on a calm sea. Before we had travelled very far however the Armada raced up with the siren blaring in their chase boat. They had forgotten to keep a duplicate copy of the departure document! It it only 25nms along the Beagle Canal to Ushuaia and we arrived mid afternoon at Club AFASyN {11.8}.. Tying up alongside Kotik was complicated by a howling northeasterly gusting to 40kts on the beam.. Shortly after we were secured a Polish yacht rafted up alongside. Theirs is a very riffraff craft with a rusting steel hull and heaped gear secured on deck by various means. They are also going to Antarctica! It makes me appreciate Windjammer all the more. Our entry procedures with the Argentinian authorities were expedited because Cathie had acquired copies of the required forms copied and completed them. Ushuaia is a bustling community of 53000 with lots of tourists off the cruise ships in the shops and cafes. We dined out at "Estancia", an Asada, or BBQ restaurant with whole lambs on spits and beef, pork, and various sausages on the grill. lots of meat.
09 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Cabo de Hornos
Windjammer waiting for crew who went ashore
09 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Bound for Cape Horn
8th January An early start saw us pulling away from Puerto Williams and passing the navy ships as they rang 8 bells (0800hrs). High cloud and cool air with an easterly breeze on the nose meant we motored through Paso Mackinley, the narrowest part of the Beagla Canal between Isla Navarino (Chile) and Isla Gable (Argentina). We passed inside Isla Picton and Isla Lennox and into the Atlantic Ocean. This route and the rest of the days passage is determined by the Armada who make sure you stick to their rules. The Alcamars (Coast Stations) pass you from one to another and Ashley and Cathie were constantly giving positions and ETA's to the anchorage. This tends to reduce the feeling of remoteness of this desolate region. To ensure we are ready for any type of wind for our trip to Antarctica, it was a good time to try out the storm trysail. It is now fitted above the main and muttoned" to the gaff. If needed we can now drop the main and hoist the trysail. It just means that we must leave one reef in the mainsail to accommodate the extra slides, but it also allows a quick transition to the storm sail. The wind freshened around midday and under mainsail with one reef, foresail and balloon jib we made good progress. The rain set in as the afternoon progressed and the numerous islands loomed out in the grey mist. The ocean swell felt good after the tranquil canals and we averaged 8-9kts and after 87 miles we made our anchorage at Caleta Martial (10.81) at 1900hrs. We are only 10nms from Cape Horn.
07 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Williams
6-7 January Established in 1953 as Puerto Luisa, the name was later changed to Puerto Williams. This town is a naval base with about 60% of the population involved in the Navy, Armada and government services. We have enjoyed a couple of relaxing days, catching up with news, doing laundry and enjoying the Club Micalvi. We have also been doing our homework on sailing around Cabo de Hornos and later to Antarctica. We have also enjoyed meeting some of the sailors who have come from all parts of the world. All cruising yachts going to or coming from Cape Horn and Antarctica have to check in with the authorities at Puerto Williams so there is a constant turnover of boats with interesting crew and a lively bar. We have decided to head to Cape Horn tomorrow. We are off !!
05 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Murray's Birthday
It blew hard in the night and we were still getting gusts of 38kts while we had breakfast. Caleta Victor Jara is a narrow and shallow cove and to leave safely we cast off two lines and left one in place while the anchor was weighed. This kept Windjammer in the middle of the caleta until we were under way. Murray then retrieved the last line and caught up with us in the dinghy. As we sailed down the Beagle Canal the wind began to die and we increased sail. Eventually we were sailing under main, foresail, balloon jib and we even had the fisherman up. It was a great sail and as we put more sail up and the weather warmed we were able to strip more clothes off. We arrived at Puerto Williams at 1600 hrs and rafted up at Club Naval de Yates Micalvi. The Micalvi is an old supply ship that was deliberately grounded to provide a safe anchorage. Originally run by the Armada, Club Micalvi now has a full time manager, Alexandro, a retired naval captain. He was on hand to greet us and after a rum ration on Windjammer he shouted us a pisco sour on Micalvi and showed us over her. This has to be one of the classic yacht clubs of the world. The Micalvi has a definite list to port and is full of old world charm. The bar is in the old ward room, has comfy seats a wood stove and a low ceiling. Numerous club and yacht pennants signed by sailors who have sailed around The Horn or returned from Antarctica adorn the walls and ceiling. Upstairs the bridge has also been restored with wood panelling glass covered maps, more seating and a view over the fore deck and the yachts rafted up alongside. We celebrated Murray's birthday at a restaurant in Puerto Williams and Alexandro regaled us with tales of his time in the navy and Chile's secret role in the Falklands war. A very enjoyable night and a wobbly walk back to Windjammer. Puerto Williams is the most southerly town in the world and Club Micalvi the southernmost yacht club. As Alexandro sees it, "ït is on top of the world" and that is how we felt at the end of the day.
04 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Beagle Channel
The wind still blew from the SW but the tide was against us when we left Caleta Olla. We set the foresail and the staysail before unfurling the balloon jib. As we left the northwest arm of the Beagle Channel and entered the main Beagle Channel the wind started to build. We dropped the staysail and then furled the balloon jib - the tighter luff tension worked a treat. By now the wind was gusting to 40 kts and with Murray at the helm Windjammer was sailing at 11+ knots. The wind continued to build and it was time to put a reef in the foresail, but the wind kept building and with the wind from directly astern it was too difficult to put in a reef. The wind built to 50kts, then 60kts and eventually gusting to 65kts. It was howling between the high walls of the Beagle Channel and with Ashley at the helm Windjammer was racing along at 12+ knots. Eventually we found some shelter at the entrance to Canal Murray and we dropped the foresail and hoisted the staysail. The plan was to sail down Canal Murray, visit some interesting caletas to the south and weather permitting sail around Cape Horn before heading to Port Williams to provision for the Antarctic. However, as we sailed down the calm waters of Canal Murray we were called on the VHF by the Alcamar Corrientes Armada officer and advised that navigation down Canal Murray was not possible. It is closed to foreign vessels. Not sure why. After a quick readjustment of our plans, we continued down the Beagle Channel passing Ushuaia and entered Bahia Honda. We tucked into the small cove, Caleta Victor Jara (10.62). There are no trees to tie to ashore and it took some time to properly secure the lines to rocks on the shore. The wind continued to blow hard and we uprooted a huge rock with one line and another slipped its grip. Eventually though, with three lines ashore and chafe protection in place we were able to retire below to Windjammer's cozy saloon where Cathie had a tasty roast chicken dinner waiting for us on the table.
04 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Seno Pia and Glacier Romanche
Northern Beagle Channel 3/1/14 A clear morning gives us a better appreciation of the highest peaks (over 2000m) of the Cordillera Darwin rising above Seno Pia. Smooth water reflects the mountains and the taller trees growing ashore. A well trodden path leads us up to a rocky outcrop overlooking Caleta Beaulieu (10.29) the bay and Glacier Romanche. During the night the grumbling noises of the glacier were clearly audible and from above we watched the icebergs moving with the different eddies in the bay. An attempt to motor up the west arm of Seno Pia was thwarted by the density of icebergs so we headed back to the Beagle Channel. This section of the Canal Beagle is spectacular with a series of glaciers tumbling down to the sea. In order we passed Ventisqueros Alemania, Francia and Italia and we could see the peaks through wisps of cloud rising over 7,000ft behind them. It was a calm, almost balmy day, certainly the warmest we have had for some time. As we motored down the Beagle Canal Ashley and Murray worked on refitting and tensioning the balloon jib luff. We pulled into Caleta Olla (10.33), a wide bay in the shelter of a small peninsular. We ran two lines ashore from the stern and with the anchor forward we were snug for the night. A crab pot which was found ashore was baited with a perforated container leaking Thai fish sauce, a punctured tin of chilli tuna and some strips of bacon and lowered into the bay. From the beach we followed a track over the wooded hill separating the Hollanda Glacier from the bay and had good views over the glacier and a lake and back over the bay to Windjammer. Cormorants and Kelp Geese perched on islets in the bay and a large Guanaco watched us from ashore. In the river outlet from the glacial lake beavers, an introduced pest, were working on their dams. We also noticed scats containing feathers and wondered if they might be from the Culpo foxes or Puma which are often seen in this area. On the way back to Windjammer we lifted the crab pot and found several Centolla, King Crabs in the trap. Caleta Olla is within easy reach of Ushuaia and is used by charter vessels. We were joined by three yachts, 2 Argentinian and a Frenchman, we enjoyed a grandstand view of their anchoring and tree tethering techniques
02 January 2014 | Southbound through Patagonia
Beagle Channel
A relaxed start and a bacon and egg breakfast had Jonkie feeling this Thursday morning was more like a Sunday morning at home.
31 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
New Years Day
After motoring out of Canal Occasion we set sail in Canal Brecknock and headed east on a SW breeze. We have covered 1600 miles since leaving Valdivia, mostly heading south but from here on its all east towards Puerto Williams. We passed a green hulled yacht that was anchored in Caleta Yahgan off Canal Brecknock. This may have been the Australian yacht "Illawong" which we had heard was in the area. The wind increased to over 30kts in Bahia Desolada which is open to the Southern Ocean so we furled the balloon jib and sailed on under foresail and staysail doing a comfortable 7 - 8 knots. A very cold day with showers of rain and hail and the odd wind driven flurry of sleet. We only stood one hour watches so we were able to stay reasonably comfortable during the day despite the heater being off. Skips decided we need toughening up for Antarctica! Hot chocolate and Cathie's freshly baked banana cake also helped warm the insides. The wind can be quite unpredictable with bullets of wind rolling down from the snow capped mountains tops and stinging hail filled squalls pushing herds of wavelets along before them. Generally these blasts are short lived and because they contain only small quantities of precipitation they are not particularly troublesome. In fact they add drama to the constantly changing vista with feathery wisps sweeping across huge granite domes with shafts of sunlight occasionally piecing through leaded skies and illuminating their gleaming flanks. Our evenings anchorage is at the end of Canal O'Brien in Caleta Emilita (10.18) with 2 lines ashore. We sailed 76nm today. Curry and rice with chipaties for dinner. The drizzle continued through the night, but the diesel heater continues to work wonders (skip relented) taking the chill out of the air and keeping everything dry below deck.
31 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
New Years Eve
Flurries of hail sit on the deck as the temperature allows no melting. In between we have shorts bursts of sunlight. There was another cruising boat in the bay so we dropped over to say hi. They were an English couple on a kiwi registered boat who had spent the previous 12 months in the Falkland Islands. The bare rocks and hills above our anchorage offer easy access to good views of the lakes in the basin above and Windjammer at anchor below. Ashley has called a layday and after a tasty fish gumbo and and freshly baked bread we retitred for a siesta.. Tonight we will watch the traditional "Dinner for One"and after that Woody Allens "The Sleeper". Happy New Year to all.
30 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
December 30
30th December A clear morning allowed us to take some great photos of this beautiful Caleta with Windjammer tucked in tightly against the cliffs. She is dwarfed by this landscape with sheer cliffs reaching up to a glowing ice cap. This anchorage was definitely one of our favourite anchorages so far, though they are difficult to catagorise because each anchorage is so varied. We motored west along Canal Cockburn into a SW wind with occasional rain squalls. At the western end of Canal Cockburn we had a brief look at the Southern Ocean. A moderate swell on the beam rolled us around a bit until we ducked into the lee of Isla Aguirre and entered Canal Ocasion. Our anchorage tonight is in Caleta Brecknock (10.7) on Seno Ocasion with two lines ashore. This caleta is surounded by bare granite walls and is again strikingly spectacular. It is one of the most famous anchorages of Terra Del Fuego and tonight also shelters the Kiwi registered yacht "Whanake" with Chris and Suzanne onboard. The day closes out at 10pm with a brilliant rainbow in the middle of the Caleta framed by the stark granite walls.
28 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Straits of Magellan
A sunny morning which we took advantage of to climb the hill behind our anchorage at Bahia Borja to get a clear views over the Magellan Straits and out towards Tierra del Fuego. The wind was on the nose all day (from the east) so we motored . It was our first good look at Magellanic Penguins with their large white flash above the eyebrow. Plenty of seabirds about for a change and a humpback whale in the distance. We are now south of Cape Froward at 53 57 deg S which is the most southern most tip of the South American continent. There is a large white cross on the cape, the third to be erected here. The previous two were blown over, but this one should be alright as its stainless steel and because it was blessed by the Pope. Our anchorage this evening is Caleta Hidden (8.15) with three lines ashore, There are a number of steamer ducks in the caleta and Murray has taken some great shots of them. The ducks don't fly, but paddle at great speed to escape danger
27 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
the Straits of Magellan
Boxing Day Today we are heading down the Straits of Magellan and again we are lucky with the weather. 25 - 30 kts from the SW and we are sailing with balloon jib, staysail and one reef in the foresail, There is snow to low levels and we have the odd hail and rain shower. Talk is about cold, colder [...]
24 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Christmas
Christmas Eve As we continue down Canal Smyth the bent channel markers and the rusting hulk of a large shipwreck attest to the power of wind and waves in this area. Today though, variable wind conditions mean we sail with staysail and sometimes also the balloon jib. We pulled in to Puerto Profundo (6.44) [...]
24 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Christmas Cheer
A very Patagonian Felicia Navidad from all the crew on board the good schooner Windjammer. The spirit of Christmas here is certainly enhanced by the snow capped peaks surrounding us and the wind chorusing through the rigging.
22 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Weighing Anchor Continued
22nd DEC Our anchor weighing saga continued into the morning. It was pretty much fouled and after spending a good hour or so trying to free it. Ashley got talking to the marinaro from the commercial catamaran moored nearby and Cathie talking to another fisherman at the Armada office. It took some time [...]
22 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Natales
13th Dec Puerto Natales is quite different from what we have seen so far with wider clean well paved streets and more prosperous looking locals. In fact they are more Caucasian than the more Indian featured, shorter, stockier inhabitants of the little coastal towns we have visited on the way south. [...]
12 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Natalies - End of the first leg
10th Dec Away by 1030hrs after retrieving our shore lines, one of which was very easy as it had pulled the tree over that it was tied to. A grey day with only a few spots of rain but plenty of wind in our favor. The wind from the NW gusting over 45kts hurried us down Canal Sarmiento and eventually into [...]
09 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Towards Puerto Natales
5th Dec. - Caleta Sally and southwards.
05 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Sailing down the Eyre Sound
3rd Dec - Caleta Lucrecia to Glacier Pio X1 It rained all night and most of the morning so we waited until lunchtime to leave Caleta Lucrecia. The cloud lifted as we traveled up Seno Eyre past the snow capped peaks that stand like sentinels along the Sound. The glacier Ventisquero Pio X1 was clearly [...]
03 December 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Eden
29th Nov We had an easy morning in Caleta Windjammer, so named by Jonkie, as the suggested way points for the anchorage near the glacier would have put us half way up the mountain. Our delayed departure was timed to bring us to the Angostura Inglesa, (English Narrows),for the south flooding tide which [...]
29 November 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Glaciers and Dolphins
28th Nov A warmer day as we motored further south on Canal Messier towards Seno Iceberg. Calm seas and dry overhead in mid channel but the cliffs and mountains on either side were veiled by curtains of rain. Sailed for a short time under foresail and balloon jib but the wind in the channel was very [...]
28 November 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Crossing Golfo de Penas
Nov 24th Sunny Sunday morning greeting us, before leaving this morning we washed our clothes in a stream running across the sandy beach of Caleta Jaqueline. We followed Canal Chacabuco east before turning south into the twisting Canal Palluche which eventually opens into Bahia Pink. This wide bay's name dates from 1741 when Englishman, George Anson came through in pursuit of the Spanish with 6 fighting ships and 2 supply vessels , called Pinks. A Pink was a small 3 masted bark with a narrow high stern very fast and manouverable. Anna , one of these supply vessels got into trouble here and spent 2 months doing repairs in Refuge Bay. Bahia Pink is open to the Pacific so we came out into ocean swells on a fresh SW wind. Our anchorage for the night was a small sheltered cove tucked in behind Isla Puentes called Caleta Canaveral (4.18), with the rugged bare hills of Peninsular Gallegos rising a above us. Nov 2th This morning was calm and still with Kelp Geese feeding in the bay and dolphins about. We motored down the coast in an irregular swell with lots of sea birds about. Hundreds of Shearwaters and many Black Browed Albatross, Cape Petrels and Giant Petrels circling around us. Dropped anchor in Caleta Suarez (4.22) at the head of Estero Cono after motoring 69nms. The Italian Pilot claims this is one of the prettiest anchorages in Pategonia, and the bush is beautiful, but the scene is spoiled by piles of rubbish, mostly fishing gear, washed up on the shore. Because it is such a secure refuge fishermen spend days holed up here waiting out bad weather and they have left their mark. We went for an explore and found parts of a huge whale skeleton and saw some beautiful Ruddy Headed Geese which are supposedly quite rare. Nov 26th/27th Walked the b each in the morning and found the vegetation similar to South Island NZ, and Tasmania (Gondwanaland Connection?), Fuchsia, Kowai, Acacia, Hebe, and big old Beech trees down to the high tide line. Also found some native celery which looks and tastes very much like the cultivated variety. Some deserters from a whaling ship who spent over a year on this coast survived on this celery and shell fish and were in better condition than the sailors on the Beagle who picked them up. Motoring down the coast towards Cabo Raper we saw a number of small whales (maybe Bottlenose). Ashley spoke with the Armada stationed in the Cabo Raper lighthouse giving our details and getting a forecast of 12kt NW winds. The Golf of Penas has a reputation for fierce storms and very rough seas so our crossing was relatively easy. Under main, fore and balloon jib we sailed at 6 - 7kts and sighted the San Pedro Lighthouse on the southern side of the Gulf at 0130hrs. We dropped the main sail and at 0200hrs Ashley spoke by radio with the Armada (surprised they were up) and did the Zarpe check in. There was very poor visibility when we came into the Canal Messier and the Navionics chart was not accurate so Ashley was navigating by radar. We had the wind, current, rain and dark with us as we sailed 40nm down the Canal Messier arriving at our anchorage at 0930hrs. We had covered 136nm in 22 hours. We anchored in Caleta Point Lay (five.13) (the numerical number five on the computer has stopped working!) , and took 2 stern lines ashore. There is very lush bush on the steep sides of this bay with all shades of green, old man's beard and sphagnum moss. We are really in the wilds now. It's like we crossed the border at the Golf de Penas and entered no mans land!
22 November 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Puerto Aguire
14th Nov Weighed anchor at 0745hrs and sailed south from Quimchi with a cold NE breeze and rain showers pushing us along at 6-7 kts. We entered the group of islands called Islas Chaques and passed numerous mussel and salmon farms. Apparently the fish and mussel farms are mostly owned by small investors [...]
21 November 2013 | Southbound through Patagonia
Sailing in the Golfo Corcavado
16th Nov We drove into Chonchi (2.13) with Willy to get gas. Chonchi is known as the three storey village because of the three tiers on which the town is built. The bottom storey was completely inundated by the 2010 tsunami. Tried to gravity feed boat gas bottle from the larger bottle suspended above without success. Ashley bought a couple of 80 litre fuel containers and lashed them on deck. 17th Nov We left the dock at Quinched and sailed south between Is Lemuy and Chiloe under main fore and balloon jib at 6-7kts. Grey skies and a cold wind with poor visibility and rain developing as we approached Queilen. After we dropped the sails and motored into the entrance of Estero Pailad though the skies cleared and the sun shone. Estero Pailad is a long narrow inlet with beautiful native bush growing on the steep banks down to the high tide line. This is the most natural and least populated environments we have visited on Chiloe so far. Anchored at Pailad (2.21) opposite a typical Patagonian wooden church. Black necked swans, geese and dolphins around us. 18th Nov A beautiful, still, sunny morning so we went for a good 2 hour walk along the bush track and back along the beach. Spotted a beautiful Ringed Kingfisher "Martin Pescador" , a large bird as big as a Kookaburra, on the way back. No wind this morning so we motored to the very busy fishing port of Quellon (2.24). This port is chockers with smaller fishing vessels set up with compressors and coils of air hoses for divers harvesting clams. The boats unload bags of clams onto the dock where they are weighed and trucked out. Boats are constantly coming and going from the dock as Ashley made enquiries about fuelling up here amongst the organised chaos. The town is very busy and a bit grotty but we found a cosy bar for a couple of beers and a meal of Chilean King Crab "Centolla". 19th Nov We managed to squeeze into a berth alongside the busy fishing dock and top up the fuel tanks and the 2 containers on deck. Departed Quellon at 10.30 with very little wind and left Chiloe behind as we motored across to the mainland. Crystal clear atmosphere and sunny skies gave us spectacular views across the Golfo Corcavado to the snow capped Volcano Corcavado, 2300m and Mt Melimoyu 2400m. Tucked into Puerto Juan Yates (2.49) at 1730hrs and ran a stern line ashore. A beautiful evening with penguins, gulls and dolphins around us and a Turkey Vulture circling above. Cleaned and shucked the clams we bought from the fishermen at Quellon and Jonkie cooked up a delicious clam chowder which we ate up on deck. 20th Nov A complete contrast in the weather today, overcast and calm when we weighed anchor but the wind soon kicked in from the north and built steadily throughout the day. Low cloud and drizzle turned to rain as we sailed down the Canal Moraleda between the mainland and the islands. Cold wind and poor visibility but what a great day sailing, 90 miles over 12 hours. I was thinking that a day like today is why we enjoy being here so much and why Micha and Suzette would not. Dropped anchor in Caleta Brooks (3.1five ) a sheltered anchorage in the narrow channel between Isla Sierra and Isla Cuptana.
16 November 2013 | Quimched, Chile
Southbound through Patagonia
14th Nov Weighed anchor at 0745hrs and sailed south from Quimchi with a cold NE breeze and rain showers pushing us along at 6-7 kts. We entered the group of islands called Islas Chaques and passed numerous mussel and salmon farms. Apparently the fish and mussel farms are mostly owned by small investors who do very well out of them financially. The wind died about midday and the sun came out showing off rolling farming country and unfortunately the bright yellow flowers of the dreaded prickly Gorse bushes. Lots of Humboldt Penguins on the water between islands. We tied up at Marina Quinched (2.12) where we met Willy Bannister who established this small marina just north of Puerto Chonchi (2.13) in a pretty little bay with a small island just offshore. The island was created when a tsunami washed away the football field that joined it to the mainland. There has been substantial damage caused by the tsunamis of 1960 and 2010 along this coast and every day at midday they do a sound check of the tsunami alarms along the coast. 15th Nov We caught the bus into Castro the capitol of Chiloe with Carl and Lisa from "Bomika" and enjoyed some German style lunch including great desserts at Marion's Café. Marion is a friend of Lisa and Carl who has immigrated to Chile. The centre of Castro is dominated by a large wooden cathedral vividly painted in bright yellow with purple spires. The saints inside are all dressed from top to toe, even little baby Jesus, I guess because of the cold! On top of the steep bank overlooking the marina Willy has built a guest house a bathroom and a BBQ room all in timber planking with timber slate roofs. The most impressive for us is the Camara Quincho, the dining come BBQ room with its raised fire pit in the middle without chimney which vents out through the roof. It is a hexagonal building with windows all around, a fully furnished kitchen and tables and chairs. We stoked the fire and Jonkie cooked us a steak and sausage BBQ which we enjoyed with Carl and Lisa by the warmth of the fire and out of the freezing wind. Willy Bannister was born in Chile but his grandfather came out from England, hence the English surname. He died here when Willy's dad was only two so his dad was raised here by his godfather, returned to England for his schooling, and came back to Chile when he was 16. Willy is an Electrical Engineer and worked in telecommunications but quit so he could spend more time with his family. He has 3 sons, two in forestry, one of which did his training in NZ, and the other son is a building contractor. Willy has done a great job setting this place up and now provides almost any service to cruising yachties and also builds boats here. The summer season is very short though from December to March. We did a few jobs on Windjammer this morning, packing away the BBQ, running out the anchor chain for remarking and setting up coils of mooring lines for tie ups once in the canals. So all ready for our voyage south.
Return to Puerto Williams
This morning we took a stroll around Puerto Toro. This small community was originally established in the late 1880s as a supply base for gold miners prospecting on the nearby islands of Picton, Lennox and Nueva. These miners had previously been supplied from Argentina and the Chilean Government was anxious that the Argentinians might claim the islands because of the absence of Chilean stations. It survived as a Chilean Government Subdelegado for less than four years though before the gold ran out.
Today there are ten families living here. There is a Carabineros Station and an Armada base and some Centolla fishermen and
their families. They claim it is the southernmost community in the world.
With the wind on the nose we motored the 25 nms back to Puerto Williams arriving mid afternoon. Club Micalvi is humming with 18 yachts rafted up alongside.
11th/12th Jan
It has been a relaxing weekend in Puerto Williams catching up on news from home and abroad.
In preparation for our Antarctic expedition Ashley, Cathie and Murray had a meeting with Sven from Dana Felicia who has recently returned from there. There is a distinct lack of cruising information on the Antarctic, so speaking first hand to people recently returned is a prime source of information. We also trolled the local library for information.
Ashley has also been doing the required customs and Armada documentation for our exit from Chile to Argentina.
Cathie has made an Argentinean courtesy flag and cooked some great meals.
Jonkie has organised a new "relaxed" dishwashing regime as the rush to be the first to do the dishes when the eating is finished was interfering with his after meal quiet time.
Murray and I have had a good hike up the 600m high Flag Hill behind Puerto Williams. The Chilean flag was blown away during a recent storm and a young lady, Karin, who intended hiking that way, volunteered to take a replacement up. We tagged along.
The flag raising party included Yuki and Nobuo from Japan who have recently returned from Antarctica where they succeeded in climbing the Vinson Massif. At 4892m the highest peak down on the Antarctic continent. Yuki, who is 57, is climbing the "Seven Peaks" the highest mountains on the seven continents. He only has one to go, Mt Everest, even though he only started climbing 4 years ago!
Karin is an Estonian now working in the Puerto Williams Tourist Office while also teaching Russian and the piano. She also speaks Japanese, Spanish, German, and Russian.
You meet some extraordinary people down here.
Puerto Williams to Ushuaia
Cabo de Hornos
9th January 2014
Well today is the day we have been aiming at for months. The place of legend, triumph and tragedy, ably described by Dana, Conrad, Melville and Hess and dreamed about by many more. Rounded by the famous from Magellan, Drake, Cook to Slocum and Motissier. Now we, are in these stormy seas. A grey day with occasional bursts of sunshine gave us unobstructed views as Cabo de Hornos hove into sight on the southern horizon. The Albatross monument and lighthouse stood out as we approached Caleta Leon under the headland. A large and confused swell made the dinghy launch very challenging but we were determined and soon heading to shore. The dingy landing was fast and furious on a rocky beach and with the help of the lighthouse keeper we lifted the dingy clear of the breakers. There are numerous steps up out of the caleta and andreas from the Armada who is stationed here for a year, cheerfully showed us around. The stark headland has boardwalks to traverse the boggy ground and the lack of trees show the Albatross monument well. The monument is a tribute to the many sailors who have sailed around the Cape and to those who have lost their lives. Andreas showed us through the lighthouse and small chapel and then we treaded down to the landing. Windjammer, standing out to sea looked very small as she rose and fell in the swells. Back on board Ashley proposed a toast to the crew, Windjammer, King Neptune and the sailors and whalers who have lost their lives attempting to round Cape. To cap a special day we had a good following breeze to speed us back to Puerto Toro (10.75) on Isla Navarino.
Bound for Cape Horn
Puerto Williams
Murray's Birthday
Beagle Channel
Seno Pia and Glacier Romanche
Beagle Channel
The cold SW wind blowing fresh snow from the tops of the mountians helped us sail above the rocks at the end of Canal O'Brien and hurried us across the Paso Darwin and into the northeast arm of Canal Beagle. There are eleven Chilean Control stations in the waters around Tierra del Fuego manned by the Armada, with one man and his family on each station. We checked in by radio as we passed and also spoke to a dutch boat heading in the other direction. Was nice to have a chat, and they told us we would enjoy Puerto Williams as there is a great bar and a few other Australians there!
As we were entering Seno Pia to see another glacier, we had an impromptu
man overboard drill when we lost a "hand" (Ashley's glove). In one minute Murray had retrieved it via dinghy and it was then put below to warm up! We are all rugged up in this area wearing multi layers under our wet weather gear. Hands and feet are the hardest to keep warm. Ashley has three pair of socks on and Jonkie continues to try different combinations to keep his hands warm, all without much success. Seno Pia, (Pia sound), is a Y shaped inlet and we took Windjammer up the Eastern arm to Romanche glacier. Any risk that we might have become blase about the scenery , (having now seen quite a few glaciers),was blown away by the grand scale of the landscape. As we nosed into these fjords, majestic new views unfolded at every bend. Glacier Romanche enters Pia sound in two places with the
most impressive at the head. Very deep water allowed us to take Windjammer close to the sheer blue face as the wind holds the recently calved icebergs at it's base. Taking photos from the dinghy shows Windjammer as a speck in this awesome setting. We then anchored at Caleta Baileau (10.29). A stunning anchorage with views onto the glacier. This has to be up there as one of the most stunning anchorages to date.
New Years Day
New Years Eve
December 30
Gunther Pluschow Glacier
What a difference a day makes! Rained heavily non stop all day. We were away early to arrive at Pas O'Ryan (where the flood tide can run at 8knts), at slack water. This shallow passage joins Sen Pedro and Canal Acwalisnan which took us south into Canal Cockburn and Tierra de Fuego. These canals are all deep cuts through the Andes created during the last ice age. This eastern part of Tierra del Fuego was then covered by a huge ice cap, parts of which remain today. We turned south off Canal Cockburn into Seno Chico which leads down to Glaciers Nena and Gunther Pluschow. Pluschow was the first airman to fly over Tierra de Fuego in 1928-29. The glaciers were calving prolifically so we had to manoeuvre slowly through the ice bergs to the head of the sound and the glaciers. Despite the persistant rain the glaciers were a magnificent sight. One is like a long tongue with darkened edges coloured by moraine. The other is a steep cascade of ice tumbling into the sound. Ashley moved Windjammer close to the face and we launched the dinghy and took a number of photos (from under an umbrella!). On ledges in the vertical walls of the fjord leading to the glaciers dozens of cormorants were nesting. They sit on conical nests of mud and seaweed and were untroubled when we went quite close to them. We then anchored in a beautiful little cove, Caleta Lago (10,1), surrounded by hight mountains and with two lines ashore, Waterfalls tumble down beside us and one of the trees we are tethered to would fit comfortably n any ornamental garden.
Straits of Magellan
the Straits of Magellan
27th Dec Another wonderful day in Patagonia! Caleta Playa Parda is a beautiful natural basin with two levels. At sea level the anchorage is well protected and is a favourite with fishermen sheltering from storms. The upper level basin is surrounded by snowy peaks feeding snow melt into a large lake. We climbed up to the ridge for a great view overlooking the lake, Windjammer at anchor and beyond the Magellan Straits. Once again the weather favours us. More snow fell over night but during our morning walk we only had one small flurry. A good tail wind gave us a fast sail under balloon jib and full foresail. There was great excitement on board when a pod of 10 to 12 Orcas passed within metres of us . Our anchorage tonight is in Bahia Borja (8.10) and we are tucked in at its head with two lines ashore. There is an arbol con tableaus (name board of passing yachts) in this bay with boat's names dating back to 1958.
Christmas
Christmas Day With the rain teeming down and the barometer reading 994 Ashley called a layday so we had a very merry Christmas in Caleta Teokita. After a bacon and egg breakfast we climbed the rocky hill above our anchorage and could look back down Canal Smyth where we had been and across to the head of the Straits of Magellan. Returning to Windjammer we all enjoyed hot showers and a glass or two of pisco-sour. Cathie delivered our Christmas mail which we read with a glass of Champagne. Thanks for all the cards and chocolates girls. Mother Christmas also brought Ashley a Go-Pro camera. Cathie cooked up a delicious Christmas lunch/dinner of roast lamb with baked vegetables broccoli and cauliflower (with mint sauce). Murray produced a couple of bottles of Chilean red wine. Dessert was trifle with cream and a very good bottle of ice-wine from Canada. As a digestive was Ron Sierra Morena from The Dominican Republic. A very enjoyable long dinner which we finished around 19.00 Well rested, very well fed and mellow to the bone.
Christmas Cheer
To celebrate Christmas we have created a little shanty to the music of Monty Pythons "Philosophers song" (a squeeze box might help)
Life is grand in Patagone Land On the good ship 'Jammer The crew grew bold The crew grew cold The crew began to stammer
Heading south into the mouth of the Canal Magellan Spirits high as we draw nigh to Christmas Eve at anchor
Our thoughts go back along the track for folks that we do hanker Loved ones near and friends that're dear and some that're done departed
A Christmas cheer A Christmas beer and a rum for them stout hearted A merry Christmas to one and all and a happy salute to the year
As we head south past Magellan's mouth onward to the Horn so near and we reckon the Antarctic beckon the domain of the anti Claus In our vessel stout we'll mess about and stay there for a pause
Life is grand in Patagone Land On the good ship 'Jammer The crew grew bold The crew grew cold The crew began to stammer Is it the cold or is it the Rum It doesn't really matter?
Weighing Anchor Continued
23rd Dec We retraced our steps today as there is only one way in and out of Puerto Natales. This time the tide is with us as we pass through Angostura Kirke and we have typical Patagonian weather with wind 10-40kts, rain and brief moments of sunshine. Perfect weather for the delicious pea and ham soup Cathie made. It is good to be under way again but we all enjoyed our stay in Puerto Natales. I forgot to mention in the blog, a couple of animals we spotted while there. For Camelid lovers you will be interested to know we saw plenty of Guanacos on the way to Torres Del. Paine. Also Ashley and Cathie saw a South American Grey Fox when they were coming back from the border. We motored for most of the day until we joined Canal Smyth and were able to unfurl the balloon jib and sail for the last couple of hours. Our overnight anchorage was Bahia Mallet (6.38).
Puerto Natales
14th/15th Dec Ashley caught the bus for the three hour trip to Punta Arenas to meet Cathie and Murray while Jonkie and I checked out options for our trip to Torres Del Paine.
16th Dec Ashley, Cathie and Murray returned from Punta Arenas and Jonkie Murray and I booked our trip with Fantastico Sur who have the concession for the Fefugios and Camps in the National Park. Any thoughts of staying in the Refugios were soon forgotten as they were booked out so it was camping in two man tents or nothing.
17th/18th/19th Dec At the bus station by 0730 to board bus for the National Park. The trip out took one and a half hours passing through open grasslands with sheep and cattle. We had booked for a three day trip with a climb up to Las Torres (the towers) on day 1, a trek around to Camp Los Cuernos (the horns) on day 2 and a climb up to Los Cuernos and then trek out on day 3. Day one was sunny with partial clouds and a howling wind. We started walking through grassland in the valley and then climbed up to our overnight camp, on through the beech forests and eventually on to the rocky scree at the base of the mountains. The wind was blowing strongly enough to push the waterfalls uphill in clouds of spray. However the clouds cleared and by the time we reached the Mirador Base de las Torres (lookout) at over 900m it was perfectly clear. These are spectacular peaks rising shear above ice shelves and a lake of glacial blue. Capped with black rock they are mostly an ochre yellow and sit in a bed of snow. Jonkie and Murray took a number of photos which will better describe this awesome setting on facebook. Having been on the boat for 6 weeks with limited leg exercise it was hard going on the rocky climb to the lookout! Our overnight camp was in tents pitched on timber platforms on a steep slope above a mountain stream. Basic but wholesome food and a glass of red revived us but it would have taken a couple of litres of the latter to get a better nights sleep on the wafer thin mattresses. Day 2 was a relatively easy walk of 16.5kms on an undulating track beside Lake Nordemskjord. Our luck was holding with the weather and we walked under partially cloudy skies and very little breeze. We took our time and were able to appreciate the views and the wild flowers which are blooming at this time of year. The strong scent of pollen was sometimes overpowered by that of horse manure deposited by the pack ponies which supply Camp Las Torres. A lot of young people of all nationalities were on the trail but very few of our vintage. Day 3 dawned crisp and cloud free. We had arranged to get an extra sandwich with our lunchbox and forego breakfast so that we could make an early start. Up by 5.30 we were rewarded with a beautiful dawn glow on the peaks of the Paine Massif above our camp. We followed the lake to Camp Italiano and then started up the valley through beech forest to Glacier Francis. From here it was a steady climb to Mirador Britanico. The view here is awesome as you stand in the centre of Los Cuernos with a 360 degree panorama of these magnificent peaks of various shapes and colours rising up over 3000m There appeared to be a track leading further up the mountain so we climbed up towards the saddle and were surprised that there were no trail markings On our return we found a ranger had blocked the access above the lookout as only climbers were meant to advance further! We did not linger long at the top as we had a deadline to reach Camp Paine Grande by 18.30 to catch the last ferry across Lake Pehoe and meet up with our bus back to Puerto Natales. All up on the day we walked over 20kms and climbed over 800m so by the time we got back on the bus we were a bit stuffed! We had arranged with Ashley band Cathie to meet in town at 2100 but were much later so had to rouse them on the Armada radio and eventually made it back to Windjammer around midnight. Yeah, thanks Nick!!
20th Dec This morning we relayed fuel out to Windjammer in the two 80 litre drums which sit on deck. Locals with utes obligingly transported the fuel from the servo down to the Armada dock where we man-handled them into the dinghy and then hoisted them aboard on halyards. In the evening we enjoyed some excellent Chilean BBQ lamb at Asada Patagonia.
21st Dec Ashley and Cathie took a taxi to the Chile/Argentina border to renew Ashley's visa. I had a good catch up with Mich, Steph and Jo on Skype and Jonkie caught up with Suzette and Morgan as we will be out of wi-fi range for some time.
22nd Dec All ready to go by 0500 so as to make the tide at the Kirke Narrows but the starboard anchor is firmly stuck. We are now waiting on a diver! watch this space
Puerto Natalies - End of the first leg
11th Dec An exciting day. It started off peacefully enough with a walk ashore and we spotted a sea Otter in the bay. We continued south down Collingwood with the wind building and so we dropped the balloon jib about lunchtime. All hell broke loose though when we came around the southern end of Peninsula De Las Montanas. Like a giant hand a violent squall "chubasco", roared down the mountain at over 60kts and laid us on our side. We only had the staysail up but the force of the wind ripped the cleat holding the outhaul off the gunwale and the leeward toerail was well and truly submerged. It was so sudden and furious that time seemed to stop for a moment but it was probably all over in thirty seconds and Windjammer shook off her load of sea and moved on. The wind continued to howl as we motored across Estero De Las Montanas watching the "williwaws" , (spirals of spray sucked up from the waves), race across the water at over 50kts. When we turned east into Canal Kirke we were more sheltered but here we were pushing a strong current, up to 6 knots in the narrowest places, and Ashley had his hands full keeping Windjammer in the middle of the narrows. Turning north into Canal Valdes we tried out an anchorage in Bahia Easter but it was not suitable so we moved on. The wind at 45- 50kts buffeted us as we rolled across the Golfo Almirrante Montt with a beam sea and it was a relief to pull into the relative calm of Bahia Coruna(7.14), and anchor for the night. The wind somewhat abating as the evening drew on.
12th Dec It was still blowing this morning when we weighed anchor and motored the 12 miles to Puerto Natales. We are now anchored in the passage, Laforest, opposite this town of 20000 people with 2 anchors out. It is a major milestone on our journey south, roughly half way, and most importantly where Cathie returns and Murray Spence joins us.
Towards Puerto Natales
Oleg the skipper of the French yacht "Kotik" wanted to get away early and as we were sharing shore lines we too had early start. It almost felt crowded as we sailed down Canal Wide after sailing alone for so long. We had Kotik ahead of us, a Brazilian Naval vessel passed us and a fishing boat and the Navimag Ferry going the other way. Our anchorage was in a small cove in Estero Gage near Caleta Shinda (6.5), where Kotik was anchored, having motored all the way and arrived first, we carried all our sail and weren't that far behind him..
6th Dec.
A beautiful clear morning for a walk. We clambered up through the bush onto a rocky knoll overlooking the anchorage and the snowy peaks behind, beautiful. Took the dinghy up to the head of Estero Gage and wandered up a river bed. Dusky Dolphins raced the dinghy back to Windjammer soaking us when they came out of the water so close you could almost touch them. Departed Estero Gage and motor-sailed into a fresh SW wind in Canal Wide. The temperature drops dramatically when heading into a wind chilled by these snow capped mountains. We crossed the Fiftieth Parallel with a shot of rum to celebrate today, so crossing from the Roaring Forties " where there is no law" to the Furious Fifties "where there is no God" in the words of the old salts!. Our anchorage in Caleta Neruda (6.8) , named after a famous Chilean poet is mercifully out of the wind on the wooded Isla Topar.
7th Dec
It rained all night and was sodden in the morning so Ashley called a rest day. A day to read and chill out and for Ashley to do some maintenance. Watched the movie "The Brothers Bloom" a good yarn.
8TH Dec
Another very wet day. We departed Caleta Neruda at 10.00hrs , sailed and motored into Canal Inocentes and through Angostura Guia. Our anchorage was in Caleta Cottica (6.13). The constant rain and low cloud meant we saw very little of our surrounds but were able to collect plenty of rainwater in the tanks! We are often met by Dusky Dolphins when we enter these small caletas and last nights pod were especially active and excited to meet us. Ashley finds them a bit distracting when edging into anchorages with little room to maneuver and looking out for rocks and kelp (rocks) and suddenly there is a shiny black back and splashes in the water right along side or on the bow ... #** &!!.
9th Dec
Today is grey but fine and the cloud has lifted enough for us to appreciate our surrounds. We have sailed down Canal Conception and into the narrow Canals Inocentes and then Sarmiento. These narrow Canals are dominated by bare granite mountains which have been stripped and denuded by ions of glaciers and ice , severe weather down to their hard raw core. We are getting glimpses of the Andes and the Southern Ice Cap along the canals on our port side. Our anchorage this evening is in Caleta Damien (6.27), a tiny nook with two lines ashore. Our evening ritual is to motor Windjammer into the designated hole in the wall, drop anchor, then spin the boat around with the stern facing the shore side. Its then up to Jonkie and I to get the first stern line secured around a stout tree to secure the boat. A second line is then run out at an angle to center the boat in the cut. Some times it takes a bit of bush bashing to get to the desired tree. Two other lines are on standby if we need more security against a blow. Expecting a bit of a blow in a day or two with two low pressure cells in tandem advancing along the fiftieth parallel towards us and no a high pressure cell to deflect them, should be interesting.
Sailing down the Eyre Sound
4th Dec A rare beautiful clear still morning greeted us and after doing our washing ashore in a mountain stream we motored back to the Glacier. A strong torrent of water pushing into the sea at the western edge of the glacier cleared the icebergs away from this area allowing Windjammer to Anchor in clear water. We took the dinghy to a small beach at the edge of the face and clambered over huge ice blocks to climb up beside the glacier. The power of this massive advancing ice flow is apparent here, gouging out big furrows of earth and trees, bulldozing everything in its path. As we returned to Windjammer a huge iceberg exploded from the face causing a large wave to wash over the beach we had just left. The sounds of the glacier "calving" is like rifle fire for little blocks and more like explosive detonations for the big ones. To celebrate such a perfect day we lunched on deck in the sun on Centolla King Crab, from the fishermen in Puerto Eden, and a glass of Chilean Chardonnay while the glacier put on its show only a hundred and fifty meters away. When we returned to Caleta Sally the crew from the yacht Kotik, which arrived during the day, came over for a glass of red. Sophie and Oleg are good friends of the Italians who wrote the Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego Nautical Guide. Oleg has been sailing these waters since the 70s and is a legend in these parts.
Puerto Eden
30th Nov Puerto Eden sits on a small island surrounded by high mountains. It has no roads nor cars but a long wooden boardwalk which runs past every house. Each house is built on the water front, they are small and simple and painted in differing colours. The population is shrinking since the onset of the Marae Roja, (Red Tide), has ruined the shellfish industry. The government has a large Armada base and an office for National Parks here and is still investing having recently built a new ferry terminal. However as Jonkie said "It looks as though as soon as the terminal was built three quarters of the population got on the ferry and left"! It seems like a very tough life style and the locals look like a very hardy mob. We moved Windjammer over to the ferry terminal and rafted up to a fishing boat with a damaged rudder. This fishing boat is harvesting a type of seaweed (looks like red cabbage) which is used in shampoos and I guess other cosmetics. They dive for it in these freezing waters. One of them was in the water effecting repairs to the rudder, then hopped out and had a wash down in cold water on the deck while we were dressed in three or four layers.(gringo's!) There seem to be as many dogs on the island as people and wherever we walked we had a canine escort. The dogs enjoyed the walk as much as we did and had a couple of dust-ups and a cat chase on the way. We bought some freshly cooked Centolla crab meat from a lady who popped her head out the door as we were passing and showed us the crabs still steaming in the pot.
1st Dec The fishermen finished their repairs and we moved back onto the anchor in the bay. The round lady in the supermecado had inflated the price of her bread overnight and was very happy to see us back for more. Price of half a pumpkin was $12.00 - easy pickings these yachties. There were very lean pickings here for provisioning. The big Navimag Ferry arrived off the township, dropped anchor in the bay and lowered her stern ramp. A flotilla of small boats then went out to meet her and offload seaweed and other seafood and picked up supplies. In less than an hour the ferry had upped anchor and was gone. There were some tourists onboard (so that is a service you could look at Micha and Suzette). The last evening we ate ashore at the Hostel Puerto Eden where workmen doing government construction are lodged and fed. Victor the chef fed us fish soup with home made bread, Locos (shellfish) empanadas and a main dish of Congrio fish with rice and cucumber.
2nd Dec It was a very cold night and we woke to find snow to low levels on the surrounding hills. We went ashore in the morning to find an internet connection without luck but Ashley did manage to download The Australian through the policeman's phone. The French yacht "Kotik" with Oleg and Sophi came in to Puerto Eden as we were leaving at lunchtime. The wind blew up from the N and we were able to sail all bar the last few miles this afternoon. We sailed down the Paso del Indio which is a narrow channel with sheer smooth stone walls reaching up to the snow line and the mist and cloud obscuring the tops. Our anchorage in Caleta Lucrecia (five.27) is just enough of a nook in Canal Grappler to offer good shelter with two lines tied to stout trees ashore. This anchorage is a favorite shelter for fishermen and there is a mountain of mussel shells around the rough shelter they have built on the beach. We clambered up the hill behind the bay in the rain to get the circulation going and take some photographs. The vegetation is typically alpine with small shrubs and mosses growing amongst the bare rock. Back on board now, sitting down to a hearty meal of Chilean sausages, potatoes and carrot mash with tomatoes and onion sauce and a good helping of boiled cabbage. The heater is churning out heat and its cold outside.
Glaciers and Dolphins
The glacier is an awesome sight towering over the water in various sculptured shapes. It's colours range from whites to the full spectrum of blues with saphire and cobalt shades and a sprinkling of brown/grey on top. It dwarfed Windjammer as Ashley maneuvered through small icebergs to within 100m of the face. Chunks of ice splintered off and plunged into the sea as we watched. The weather gods were still being kind as the rain held off and Ashley and Jonkie took turns in the dinghy taking photographs and returned with ice to add to the Ron Pampero (from Venezuela), our favorite rum, (so far).
Crossing Golfo de Penas
Puerto Aguire
21st Nov Weighed anchor at 0930 and continued south under sail with light NE winds towards Puerto Aguire, down the Canal Devia between the mainland and the Chonos Archipeligo. One small islet, Maria Isabe, had hundreds of nesting Cormorants on one end, Pelicans on the middle and fur seals on the other. Jonkie was trolling all day for salmon , without any success. Very pleasant sailing all day. We picked up mooring lines fore and aft in Caleta La Poza near Puerto Aguire (3.37). Jonkie spotted a Southern River Otter while fishing. We cooked up the last of our clams for an appetiser, tried bottom fishing with a bit of clam, not even a nibble . 22nd Nov We spent the day in Puerto Aguire which we had been advised was the last provisioning stop for some distance on the way south. There was very little in the way of fresh food although by buying a little from different small shops we did top up supplies. Checked in with the very friendly mob at the Armada and given the nod to continue. Apparently everyone who signs up for the navy must do time in administration so there always seems to be a lot of people to do the same job. We had a good walk in the afternoon from Caleta a Poza around the nature reserve on the headland between Aguire and the airstrip. The houses in Aguire are an eclectic mix as building materials seem hard or expensive to come by and there seem to be a lot of DIY builders here. 23rd Nov We dropped our mooring lines and negotiated our way through the shallow passages between the islands east of Aguire before heading south down Canal Errazuriz. Sailing under Balloon jib and stay sail with N wind. A monochrome day with low grey skies, coal black seas and blue/black islands. The barometer dropped suddenly in the afternoon and the wind veered SW with stinging rain. The temperature gauge read 7.6deg but with the chill factor it felt much colder! There is a dusting of fresh snow on the hills above us. We pulled into a beautiful sheltered cove Caleta Jaqueline (4.6), for the night. Ashley prepared a delicious beef bourguignon, served with our rum ration soon warmed us up. The oil drip heater is a godsend though, keeping everything below decks quite toasty. Now heading off towards Bahia Anna Pink and then the infamous Gulf of Penas!
Sailing in the Golfo Corcavado
Southbound through Patagonia
Overnight to Puerto Montt
Made good progress down the coast under main, fore, and staysail with the wind building from the north. By the time we arrived at Canal Chacao at 1430hrs the wind and tide was with us. The passage between the island of Chiloe and the mainland is notorious for its currents, running at up to 9kts with rough seas due to the shouling of the continental shelf. We ran through the Canal under foresail and staysail with the wind behind us and gusting up to 40kts with boat speeds reaching 12kts. Crew all quite tired and happy to drop sails and anchor at Puerto Abtao (2.26 in the Italian Pilot), a small fishing village.
7th Nov
Continued on to Puerto Montt, passing the the island of Calbuco, first settled by European in 1604. All along the shoreline there are lots of fish farms "salmoneras" and hundreds of fishing boats of all sizes all brightly painted.
Arrived Puerto Montt early afternoon and found a berth at the Club Nauticos. Puerto Montt was founded in 1853 and was the main center for German immigration. This is the last southern port for major supplies and is loaded with ferries, fishing boats and ships of all sizes. Lars and his crew from his large aluminium yacht "Dana Felicia" came on board for a a cup of tea and a chat. They had a tough passage sailing south along he coast from Peru. Two of the crew were on deck stitching torn sails in 35kts of wind. Lars sails around the world alone or with crew.
Walked around to Marina Sur and met Ulag and Sophi on "Kotik" their 60'steel yacht which he built in 1989 and has been sailing the southern ocean. He is a cigar smoking, strongly opinionated, French character who takes 1 or 2 charters down to Antartica and South Georgia each year. His favorite part of the world though is the Aleutian's so he covers huge spans of the globe. Had a meal in a tiny 12 seat restaurant where we ate the local "Chuba de Centoya" a tasty crab pie.
8th Nov
Jonkie and I hired a car and headed north to Lake Llanquihue. Couldn't see much because of rain and low clouds but stopped in the town of Frutillar, where we came across this most amazing theater built out onto the lake. A very large building clad in different timbers, it looks stunning. Stayed in Hotel Salzburg over night and found a cosy bar with a wood fire and friendly hosts.
9th Nov
Clear sunny day with views across the lake to the snow capped volcanoes of Osorno 2652m and Calbuco 2015m. We drove around the lake past rich grazing country and beautiful German style homesteads.
Chris and Margie from the Tasmanian Yacht, "Storm Bay" joined us on board for drinks on deck followed by dinner. Still good light until 2030hrs here. They retired from their jobs in Tasmania and have been cruising their 40' Allen Payne designed Skookum for 11 years.
10th NOV
Washed down decks and topsides before heading into town for lunch. Watched the police hose down some exuberant soccer fans with water cannon.
11th Nov
Visited the Armada for our "zarpe" and Ashley tracked down a new water pump for the head. Pulled out of our berth at Cub Nauticos around midday and headed south to Paso Nao and around 20.00hrs poked our bow into Caleta Zapatero (2.33)a narrow channel between Isla Toro and Isla Malomacun. Anchor not holding here with rocks in flukes so we crossed the passage and anchored at the head of Caleta Andrade, a deep inlet on Isla Llancahue (2.37). Fishermen still at work on mussel aqua farms at 2030hrs.
New crew
Jonkie and I arrived hear in the early hours after an overnight bus trip from Santiago. Found Ashley and Cathy on Windjammer at the Club de Yati del Valdivia and woke them up. Valdivia is a modern city having been reconstructed after the devastation of the 1960 earthquake, one of the biggest ever recorded. Very colorful location on the river with all the Rhododendrums in flower.
There is a wonderful fish and vege market beside the river where the fishmonger's gut and fillet their fish and chuck the waste to the huge sea lions waiting behind them.
Lots of Black Vultures and cormorant's as well. We were escorted around the market and town by Bella the big black dog that has adopted Ashley and Cathie and belongs to the yacht club.
3rd Nov
Changing of the guard today as Cathy prepares to leave for Santiago and home and the two new "marinaros" find their feet and take a tour of the stores with Cathy who has provisioned, stored and labeled everything. We have a BBQ on board in the evening with cruising friends in the marina coming over to farewell Cathy. Lisa and Carl off" Bomika" who had to salvage their yacht after running aground in the Beagle Channel and a young Dutch couple, Martin and Marianna who sailed around Cape Horn while she was heavily pregnant and just made it into Valdivia in time to give birth to a healthy boy.
4th Nov
Shopping for parts in Valdivia. There are numerous small stores with specialised parts rather than large hardware stores so it takes time and a lot of shoe leather to find the things you need. There is a strong German influence here with many immagrants arriving after the war so the the beer is excellent.
Ashley cleared out with the Armada, a lengthy process as it seems to take quite a number of clerks to sort out the "Zarpe", the permit required when exiting any port in Chile. We fueled up beside a very dodgey dock from a fuel truck and headed down to the river mouth in Corral Bay and out into the Pacific for our overnight sail to Puerto Montt.
Preparing for the high Latitudes
Spent the past 2 months at the Yacht club of Valdivia, ten miles up the Rio de Valdivia after a great passage from Robinson Crusoe Island. Becky, Garry and Michael are now off on new adventures while Cathie and I rented a car and did a road trip across the Andes. First to Baraloche, then to San Martin via the seven lakes. We then crossed over the Andes again to Pukon and finally back to Valdivia. The scenery was stunning in particular the snow covered volcanoes. Back at the Yacht club all hands on deck to prepare for the high latitudes. New heavy lines for stern tie ups in the fjords, new winch and seat fitted on the aft deck, varnish applied and spares topped up. Cathie's shoulder started playing up and scans revealed that the bone hadn't mended so we decided the best course of action was for her to return to Australia for further surgery. If all goes well she will join us in Puerto Natales in six weeks, fingers crossed. In the mean time the boys, Nick and Jonkie have arrived and we are preparing to set sail again.
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Port de Vita and the SW Coast
28 Photos
Created 20 May 2015
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Sailing from Easter Island to Chile
26 Photos
Created 3 September 2013
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Lord Howe Island midway between Australia and New Zealand
22 Photos
Created 7 February 2011
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About & Links
- CUBA 2015;
- SCANDAVIA AND BALTIC SEA 2016; Norway, Denmark, North Germany, Ijsslemeer
- INDIAN OCEAN 2020-21; Seychelles, Tanzania, Chagos, Maldives
- RED SEA 2019; Egypt, Jordan, Sudan, Eritrea, Djibouti, Socotra
- AROUND BRITAIN & IRELAND 2017
- MEDITERRANEAN ODYSSEY 2018-19
- NETHERLANDS 2016-17; Winter in Amsterdam, Stande Mast canal to Belgium, English Channel to London
- ARCTIC ADVENTURE 2016; Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Greenland, Iceland, Faroes, Shetlands
- US EAST COAST & NOVA SCOTIA 2015;
- CARIBBEAN 2015
- SOUTH ATLANTIC CROSSING - USHUAIA TO CAPE TOWN 2014; A tough passage via Tristan De Cunha
- ATLANTIC CROSSING CAPE TOWN TO BRAZIL 2015; St Helena, Fernando Noronja & an encounter with pirates
- THE CASTAWAY ISLANDS 2013; Cocos Is, Galapagos, Easter Island, Robinson Crusoe Island
- Central America and Mexico
- US West Coast
- Alaska
- British Columbia and the Inside Passage
- Crossing the Pacific
- New Zealand
- Patagonia
- Cape Town
- Antarctica
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26 August 2020
99 Photos
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03 May 2018
65 Photos
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