Back to Turkey (28 August – 3 September)
03 September 2018
We checked out of Rhodes and left for Bozburun, Turkey. Again, the breeze is right on the nose so more motoring. This is a very busy waterway, with cargo ships., ferries, cruise ships and the odd yacht. As we crossed the dotted red line on the chart that indicated the border, we lowered our Greek flag and raised the Turkish flag. About the same time, we saw a large pod of dolphins, about 20 in all – not sure if they were Greek or Turkish but it was an amazing sight!
Bozburun and surrounding bays (28-30 August)
As we entered the Bozburun harbour we were welcomed by the call to prayer, which clearly indicated that we are back in Turkey. We contacted a local agent who dealt with all of the arrival formalities with no probhttps://www.sailblogs.com/admin/blog_manager/post_edit.phplems at all. We did have to park in the small harbour twice, once in the “customs” area and again about 20 metres further on in the “non customs” area. Every time one anchors in these small harbours there is a risk of getting an anchor chain tangled with either a boat next to you or one on the opposite side of the harbour. So far this year we have managed to avoid the tangled anchor issue which we are quite happy about.
The next two days we anchored in the enclosed bay just outside Bozburun. This is a very popular area with good reason, very sheltered, crystal clear water and plenty of places to anchor with a line ashore to keep you secure.
As we sit on the back of the yacht eating breakfast (fresh peaches, Greek yoghurt with a drizzle of honey), an old man rowed his small boat alongside. He is selling fresh bread, eggs, almonds (they grow a lot of almonds in this area) and vegetables. We purchased fantastic village bread (Turkish bread) off him, which we toasted and had with Greek thyme honey. A fantastic combination!
Bozuk Buku (31 August)
We have been to the large bay of Bozuk Buku a few times but this time we ventured further into the bay and moored off a restaurant called Sailors House. We had ben told that the restaurant was good and we were not disappointed. There was no menu and when we asked for wine, Glenn was escorted to a chest refrigerator and was offered a choice of a couple of bottles. We surmised that there is not a big market for wine here. We had a beautiful meal of mixed meze comprising six different dishes (cheese borek, carrot and yoghurt dip, potato salad, pickled cabbage, eggplant and tomato salad and a spicy pepper dip – see image in the gallery) served with home-made bread. This was then followed with a whole fish, butterflied and grilled on the bbq. This was too much food for two people, it could probably have fed four but it was delicious and probably the best fish we have had so far. When we thought the meal was finished and that we could not eat any more they brought out two pieces of halva for desert.
Serce Limani (1 September)
Serce Limani is a fjord-like bay with a very narrow entrance, making the bay almost totally enclosed. While anchored, we were approached by a man and young boy in a small boat – as always trying to sell stuff. In this case it was clothes, towels, table cloths, nuts and honey. It soon became apparent that the man was deaf. With lots of sign language and with the help of Google translate, we worked out that he would bring fresh bread the following morning which was duly delivered. A very large, locally made in a wood oven “village” bread that was quite good in a rustic kind of way. (see image in the Gallery)
This bay was absolutely alive with small fish, there were always large schools hanging around the yacht. There was occasionally something larger would come through and send them scurrying away. Whatever the larger fish were, despite offering several types of lure, they are still in the water……..
Ekincik Limani (2-3 September)
We had a four-hour sail from Serce Limani to Ekincik Limani. We had the wind behind us, which was good but at times it was so light we had to run the motor.
Ekincik Limani is a large and very pretty bay, with red cliffs and steep wooded slopes. We have anchored out in the bay with lines ashore but tonight might venture into the small town harbour for a meal ashore and maybe some reprovisioning.