We find ourselves already at the top of the Florida Keys only three days after leaving Boca Chica near Key West. The idea was to take our time and cruise slowly, but as always, weather rules. Since we do not draw more than three feet, we are able to take the inside channel up the Keys as well as the outside Atlantic Ocean route, but once the route is chosen, there are very few places for a sailboat to cross over to the other side if the wind directions change. Deeper draft boats are restricted to the outside which has little protection from blows from most directions. Considerations must be made for the weather because there are limited places to hide from strong winds. Key West was founded on salvaging wrecked boats, and care must be taken to not become a statistic. I study all the possible anchorages and marinas along the way, and then I watch the detailed hourly forecasts from several different sources. It doesn't take a storm to make for a miserable passage or even miserable anchorage as we have personally experienced.
We decided the inconsistency of the predicted wind directions would be reason enough to move on up the Keys, or we might get stuck somewhere for longer than we wished. Getting out of Boca Chica can be treacherous in south, southeast, or east winds. Tuesday had moderate to strong west to northwest winds forecasted tapering off in the afternoon, which would put the winds slightly behind our beam. We knew it would be rolly, but Sea Soul sails well and feels quite comfortable in those conditions. We had hoped to spend a day or two at Marathon so we could visit Pigeon Key and the new Dockside Grill, but we were sailing so well we decided to move on up the coast. Also, the forecast for the next couple of days showed lighter winds but totally on our nose making for a less comfortable and more fuel hungry ride.
Our first night was spent very comfortably in the lee side of Long Key just west of the Channel Five bridge, one of the few crossover spots. A beautiful, peaceful and very swallow anchorage shared only with a couple of other catamarans, we thanked ourselves again for getting a catamaran. We enjoyed a nearly full moon and stars peeking out from behind the clearing clouds. From Channel Five on, there is more protection from winds and more tuck in spots.
Our next day brought the predicted very light northeast breezes on our nose so we motored toward Key. The scenery and water colors along this route are just breathtaking. At Key Largo, we anchored just off the Marriott Hotel grounds in Blackwater Sound for another very comfortable night. This is where our cruising career started in 2008. Our first Sea Soul's homeport was less than a mile from this spot when we purchased her. The previous owners generously allowed us to leave her at their dock for six months until we could get the time off to bring her back to Alabama. Every long weekend was spent here working on her and learning how to sail in Blackwater Sound. We have very fond memories of the area. We ate fabulous dinner at Sundowners' Restaurant on the Sound and had the best Key Lime pie we've ever tasted.
Only 22 nautical miles brings us to Elliott Key at the top of the Keys at the southern end of Biscayne Bay. Elliott Key is part of the Key Biscayne National Park. Studying weather patterns works, but one must always remind oneself that forecasts change. It did. The predicted southeast breezes turned in to northwest to north light winds while not terrible, gave us the entire bay from which the seas could build. We had a couple of bouncy nights that turned into a perfectly calm mornings and gorgeous days. Ed took a break from work so we could dinghy up to Boca Chita Key, a very small island just north of Elliott Key, still part of the Biscayne National Park. The Honeywell Family of Honeywell Heating Controls purchased the island in 1937 and began developing it for a family winter resort. His wife took a fall there and died before it was finished so he sold it and left. It became part of the National Park in the 1980's, but the stone structures he had built remain, including an amazing lighthouse that was only lit once because the Coast Guard deemed it a hazard to navigation due to the shallow waters around the island. Boats with 3' or less draft can camp along the sea wall and tent camping is allowed on the grounds, however, there is no fresh water or services so everyone must carry in and carry out everything they need. It was packed full of families enjoying the beautiful weather. We determined that Sea Soul could get into the harbor so maybe next time. For today, we walked the path around the entire island, and checked out the lighthouse and the scenery surrounding the island. The downtown Miami skyline can be seen from there as well as our anchorage in the distance.
Later this afternoon, we checked out the small beach area on Elliott Key near our anchorage. We tried taking the hiking path into the island, but the mosquitoes were vicious so we turned back to the beach. The islands are mangroves on rock mostly with some sandy spots mixed in. The water is so clear we can see our anchor on the bottom seven feet below the boat. Swim shoes are a necessity as some of the rocks are sharp. We saved the swimming for when we returned to the boat. While the water is still a little cool, the sun is so warm, it is just refreshing. We take a swim, shower off on the back step and now steaks are on the grill.
Tomorrow, we will move up toward Miami and see what we can find.
Cruising the Keys Photo Gallery