The title to this post may seem like a wild contradiction but as I understand it, the historical application of the term "dismal" was not a pejorative but a term for a swamp like land feature. On the other hand, we have read that the term was intended as stated by the original conceiver, Colonel William Byrd who found it repulsive. Anyway, in our estimation, it was anything but dismal or repulsive.

First, it is steeped in history; I won't recount it all but, in summary, the Canal was proposed in 1728 as a way of connecting the landlocked sounds of North Carolina for the purposes of local and regional transportation and exploitation of the abundant forests. Construction was started in 1793 and completed in 1805. It was dug by hand by slaves. It is almost unfathomable that human toil created this very interesting canal.

I won't go further into the history but I would recommend anyone interested to google it and fill in the blanks I will leave.

So, to the modern canal. It is maintained by the Corp of Army Engineers (although there has been very little maintenance done in recent history). It is about 20 some odd miles and supposedly maintained to 6 feet of depth. It is mostly, straight as a die and very narrow; boats would have a hard time passing; one would likely run aground. There two locks; on at either end and these are the only locks we'll encounter on our trip. The locks are really interesting, they open at specified times of the day and the vessels (mostly pleasure boats) need to get in the queue to enter. You enter the lock and are instructed by the lockmaster how to tie up to the sides. Once all the boats are in, the gate behind you is closed and you and the other boats are confined in this "pen". Water then is brought in and the level is raised to the level of the canal and the forward gates open and you emerge into the Great Dismal Swamp Canal. The inverse happens at the other end (same type of operation, except that the level is let back down to the exiting river level.

Once in the canal, you are part of the parade of boats which have locked with you and you travel along this survey-straight canal with lush trees and vegetation on both sides; and indeed almost creating a canopy over the canal. The water is the color of tea from the tannins exuded by the trees and vegetation. There are quite a few deadheads and you can expect to bump several times.

There are a few houses scattered along the swamp but for the most part you are travelling down a veritable tunnel of vegetation. Part way along, there is the Visitors' Centre with a smallish dock face which boats may tie up to to spend the night if you cannot to the transit in daylight. We arrive and there are already several boats tied up so we "raft" in three groups of four deep. Everyone is doing the same thing so the rafting is without question. Rafting, for the non-boaters means tying up along side of another boat.

Once we get settled, we start supper and invite Ray and Ray from the Gemini Catamaran from Boston over for supper. They are wonderful company; witty and entertaining and we have a fine evening.

Next morning, engines start around 7:00 and most everyone is away by 7:30 in order to start the queue for the exiting lock a few miles away. Another production like yesterday and we are out of the Great Dismal Swamp and into the Pasquotank River. By contrast to the swamp, this river is full of oxbows and switchbacks. But, it too is very pleasant and comfortable. Our destination is Elizabeth City of considerable fame among cruising boaters.