Weather forecast calls for 15 to 20 knot winds from the North for the next two days. Just the weather the guides warn us about for the transit of the Albemare Sound. The Sound is a 15 mile wide by, shallow body of water which we have to cross to resume our journey down the ICW. The cruising guides warn about the effect of winds blowing along the shallow waters which create steep waves, very close together. We wake still uncertain whether to go or not but we see others leaving and we decide to cast off. Looks like everyone has the same idea and our little armada of boats consists of about 15 boats; sail and power; various sizes. We exit Elizabeth City in near calm, bright and flat water conditions but about ten miles into our journey, as we enter the sound, things change. The winds are quite strong and right behind us and the tea colored water froths and boils. We all put our sails; Sea Sharp a reefed main. For non boaters the main sail is the one hoisted up the mast and supported by the boom. To "reef" a sail means to use pre-established ropes or other means to shorten or make smaller the sail area.

We shut off the engine and enjoy the exhilaration of the rolly and boisterous ride across the sound. Chopin stays below as it is too rocky for him. As we make our way across, we hear a boat calling the Coast Guard to ask for medical assistance as a block (pulley) came apart and hit him in the forehead. He was sailing a Nonesuch 30, the same as our friends Jeff and Jacquie used to own. Jeff used to talk about the consequences of an accidental gybe (when the wind or boat shifts across the stern ad the boom wildly shifts to the windward side. The effect is impressive and can do serious damage. We hope this fellow is ok.

We take down our sail as we enter a restricted passage at the other side of the Albemare Sound - this was an adventure in itself. We are now entering Alligator River. We then have to ask the bridge (a swing bridge) to open for us. We are in the immediate company of Aquilla, a Hunter 33.5 from Quebec and note a gorgeous Island Packet (sail boat), probably around 42 feet wanting to also go through the bridge. I call the bridge tender and he tells us he'll open and that we'll have to go through single file. We wonder why there is no radio contact with the Island Packet until we get closer and see that his whole rig (mast, boom, stays, etc) have crumpled like toothpicks; she has been dismasted!!! It is a very sad sight to see such a noble and robust boat in this state and we can only sympathize with the owners who have likely had their dream vacation/cruise drastically changed. While we don't know the details, we now understand that the incident happened at the Alligator River Swing Bridge. Don't know who was in the right and who was in the wrong, but we certainly know who won!

So we get through the bridge and then put our sail (this time the jib - the wind is still almost on our stern) and enjoy the ride down the Alligator River. The winds continue strong and the seas pick up as the fetch lengthens. But, we're sailing!!! It's great. We were going to go shorter but decide to keep going to an anchorage at the bend of the Alligator River.

As we near the end of our day, we are treated to a rare and awesome sight. Huge fighter jets (I don't know much about this stuff but they look like the ultra-modern, ultra fast new things) circle around, passing repeatedly overhead (seemingly just above our 60 foot mast but I'm sure it was much more). The sound was deafening.

Finally we round the corner and furl up our sail and head for the anchorage with various other boats. The anchorage is somewhat exposed but the seas are calm and we settle down. We've been invited to Whisper (Ray and Ray's boat) for supper.