Wild Horses Could Not Keep Us Away
15 December 2008
We liked Brunswick but are glad to get underway again. We leave mid-morning to get at least mid-tide through Jekyll Creek which is one of the trouble spots on the ICW. We had hoped to stop here but our time table does not permit. This is supposedly a very interesting place, which, at the end of the nineteenth and early twentieth century was the summer home of the ultra rich including Rockerfellers, Astors, Goodyears, Morgans, Pulitzers etc. Their "cottages" did not have kitchens because they all dined at a common restaurant. The seasonal residents of this island controlled one-sixth of the world's wealth!
We have no problems transiting Jekyll Creek, showing not much less than 12 feet. We cross St. Andrews Sound which is a bit boisterous with the left over winds but nothing problematic.
We arrive at the anchorage at Cumberland Island by late afternoon and we put Judy and Carolyn ashore by dinghy to explore. I pick them up about an hour later and they're very excited, recounting having seen several of the wild horses and describing the canopies of Spanish Moss-laden oaks. We make plans to get up early the next morning and do a longer visit to the Island.
It's quite blustery tonight, and, compounded with the changing tides we do a fair bit of banging around but are well secured on our anchor. We arise around 6:30 and are ashore by just after 7:00. It is a magical morning. We hike across this narrow island to the Atlantic and watch the sunrise from a wonderful beach. We then roam around the island for a couple of hours. Of particular note is the now abandoned and deteriorating estate called Dungeness. It is/was a massive brick and stone structure with beautiful grounds and associated gardens. We see several of the feral horses who are quite at ease with our ooing and awing and picture-taking. We're warned, however, not to get too close; they are wild and could take offence to our presence.
Anyway, this short visit was a real highlight of the trip and we know that Bob and Carolyn enjoyed it equally. Only disappointment is that we see any of the armadillos which, apparently live here.
We depart mid morning wanting to get part-way to St. Augustine, our next major stop.
Yesterday, on our way to Cumberland Island, and again for the first part of our voyage today we pass through a fairly large channel which leads to King's Bay Naval Base where nuclear submarines apparently are based. The naval submarine base is the home port for the Atlantic Fleet's most modern nuclear ballistic submarines, the Trident or Ohio-class subs. It is the only navy base with the capability to support the Trident II missile, the most sophisticated nuclear missile designed to be launched from a submarine. We don't have any security issues this time although we see behind us where one sailboat is being escorted by two Coast Guard vessels.
We wend our way through creeks, across sounds and find a very nice spot to anchor in a small river, Ft. George, just off the waterway. We anchor and Judy and Carolyn go ashore to visit a plantation. Turns out the main building was closed but they do get a tour of the grounds.
All in all, a banner day and we go to bed tired but fulfilled. Tomorrow on to St. Augustine.