Back to the Keys … or from sweatpants to shorts
27 February 2015 | Islamorada, FL
Maggie
We spent a few days at Marine Stadium (we can't seem to get away from this place), where the wind clocked from the N to SW, so we moved from one side of the anchorage to the other hoping for a good night's sleep. Bob went by dinghy about two miles to Crandon Park Marina to get diesel ($2.42/gallon) before it got too windy. We went for a walk on the beach while it was blowing, and we came back to haul the motor and dinghy to get ready for our departure Wednesday. In the evening it calmed to nothing and the anchorage was like glass.
There are more fronts on the way, and we want to get to South Beach for a visit by Michelle, Denise and Tyler. The forecast is for NNW 20-30 with overnight temperatures in the 40s. When we decided to leave, the wind was NNW about 15 and we motored the 6 miles to anchor off Belle Island. What a zoo! Boats were moving every which way as the wind picked up and we had opposing currents. We watched as boats almost hit each other or were facing bow to bow. We decided we'd better stay onboard. On Thursday, I baked our "underway bars" to warm the 53-degree cabin (it was 47 in the enclosed cockpit and 44 outside, hitting the record low). Bob stood watch for most of the day, and saw sustained winds to 34 kts for several periods. SeaTryst fishtailed and heeled, as did other nearby boats, but our anchor held! Finally, about 3:00p, the winds abated and we could lower the dinghy to go ashore to meet up with family. We tied the dinghy to the new dock close to Publix; it was pretty low tide, so it was like climbing monkey bars to get to the dock.
It was fun to meet up with Denise, Michelle and Tyler on Lincoln Road Mall, the hub of South Beach. But it was COLD! Plenty of outdoor restaurants with fires blazing, lots of shops, and people watching at its best! We saw them dressed in winter furs down to short-shorts and tank tops. We had dinner at Sushisamba, and then went for gelato. Looking at our pictures (see "Last of Miami" photo gallery, right column), you'd never know we were at Miami Beach!
We returned to the dinghy to find the tide had risen substantially in a few short hours, surprising both of us; the dinghy's quarter stern was pinched under the dock. While I grabbed a few things at Publix, Bob deflated the dinghy to free it. Fortunately, no damage was done.
We met the family onshore late Friday morning, and they came aboard SeaTryst for a visit, some snacks, and to share and take photos. After dropping them at the dock and saying farewell about 1:30, we weighed anchor (once again) to Marine Stadium. On Saturday, with wind forecast ESE 15-20, we headed southwest for the Keys! Winds were up, so we reefed both sails and had a lovely trip to Jew Point, the north end of Key Largo. No other boats around at this anchorage. It was a perfect night. We spent Sunday exploring the mangrove creeks and enjoying our quiet space. How unusual to have good weather, we were beginning to believe global warming had changed Florida for good.
On Monday, we woke to perfect, dead-flat calm, and laughed as we watched 7 dolphin chase after the flying fish through water that was like glass. We motored about 15 miles to Butternut Key, wearing bathing suits in the 80 degree weather. Finally! We found another spot where no other boats were around. We could hear slight motor noises from the channel in the distance. Otherwise, we had the place to ourselves for two days. Turquoise, flat water. The only thing that kept this from being paradise was that it missed a beach, palm tree, and crystal-clear water. We enjoyed every moment; it was paradise! The sunsets were spectacular, and we saw two green flashes. On Wednesday, we were surrounded by pea-soup fog, and not a ripple in the water. So peaceful. When the sun burned off the fog, we got underway at 10:30a for a little spot between Wilson and Windley Keys, for all-round protection. There is NW wind predicted, and we like to add 5 kt to the forecast when we see a westerly component. We dinghied around to the ocean side and found a couple of marinas and a boat launch, and worked our way through the mangroves. The next day, we had lunch at Gary Dunn's Ocean View Pub, where Bob was able to swim in their pool. Anchored in grass, we held during the strongest winds of about S 20, and dragged when the winds lightened to about 7 out of the West. Go figure! We are using Anchor! App on my iPad which warns us when we are out of the comfort range. Fortunately, the bell went off before we dragged into the mangroves. We dropped the hook at least 5 times over 2 days.
This morning (Friday), we returned to Islamorada, for a final goodbye to LoreLei - Bob's all-time favorite bar, before we start our trip home on Sunday. The prediction was for NE wind about 10 knots today. Shortly after returning to the boat after dinner, it started blowing 20+ out of the North with rolling swells rocking SeaTryst. At least we had a few days of comfortable conditions! Let's hope the predictions for the next few days hold so we get home before the next front.