Buenos Dias - or is it Tardes ??? I think I left off as we were over the starting line at Bahia Santa Maria and the wind had gone slack.

Fortunately, within an hour it picked up from the right direction and we were once again making good headway toward the finish of leg 3 at Cabo San Lucas, some 180 miles SSE. By 1030 hrs we had set the cruising spinnaker and would sail comfortably with that and a reefed mainsail until sometime after midnight, when the wind shifted enough westerly that we could no longer make a direct course for the tip of Baja.

The wind slowly deteriorated through the night and finally at about 10 in the morning I succumbed to the lack of forward progress and started the engine. By noon the temperature was above 90 and we crossed the Tropic of Cancer at 23 degrees 17 minutes N, officially entering the "Tropics" and noted the water temperature was above 80 !!! At 1920 hours we were across the finish line of the "Millenium Ha-Ha". About 2 hours later, after finding the way past Cabo Falso and into the open anchorage of Cabo San Lucas, the anchor was down in 50' of water, 200 yards off the beach and among some 75 other boats that had arrived before us.

With the light of sun in the morning, it was evident that another 50 boats had arrived during the night, filling most of the desirable anchorage area and beyond. The day was warming quickly and we had the task of "Checking In", a matter of paperwork, port fees, and visits to 4 offices spaced about a mile and a half apart in Cabo, so after getting the dinghy in the water and the outboard mounted, it was off to town, followed by 3 hours of walking, waiting, waiting and walking - but honestly, it took much less time than I anticipated.

That afternoon, the sponsors threw a big beach party lasting well into the evening, giving everyone the opportunity to visit and recap the last 11 days since leaving San Diego, for in the morning boats would begin to leave for the special destinations that would mark the start of the next portion of their cruising itineraries.

The next day was spent relaxing in the sun, a shopping visit to town, preparation to leave the following day and finally, an awards presentation, where all boats were determined to finish no lower than 3rd place, and 1st and 2nd place winners were decided by arbitrary and undisclosed rules. Afterall, the purpose of this rally was to see everyone safely arrive in Cabo and have fun doing it !! Now all the participants were on their own in sunny Mexico and we left the next morning for the 150 mile bash north in the Sea of Cortez to La Paz.

Rounding the tip of Baja presents some real changes in weather and climate. Sea temperature rises to 82-84 degrees and the winds tend to blow steadily from the north whereas on the Pacific coast they have a more northwesterly component. Because of the tidal currents flowing into the Sea, the waves tend to be steeper and much closer together - referred to as "square waves" - and much more uncomfortable when one has to sail or motor against them. You who have been here know just what I mean !!! Well, I won't bore you with detail, suffice to say that within 10 miles of leaving Cabo it was head seas and water on deck for the next 35 miles to a protected anchorage at Los Frailes, where the swimming in 83 degree water and the long white beach almost made up for the 10 hours of bashing into 5' seas and 25 knot winds.

After spending a rest day there, we headed off around the point for the next available protection, Ensenada de los Muertos, another 45 mile bash into head seas, winds and just possibly the most uncomfortable day of boating I have yet to enjoy - anywhere!! Once again though, the anchorage was beautiful, the beach was white and we enjoyed fresh tuna, bought from a local fisherman and barbequed on the shore, while we visited with new friends and wondered about the others that were just now starting out from Cabo or Frailes - at least there were only 55 miles to go to La Paz.

I had decided that run would best be made at night when the wind moderated somewhat, so we raised anchor at 2130 hrs and motored around the point into a manageable swell and light winds. By 0800 the next morning the anchor was down in 13' of water about 100 yds off the malecon (seawall) in the heart of La Paz, the capital of Baja California.

I've now been here 4 weeks (well, there's another story) and I'm preparing to leave in the next few days to cross the Sea of Cortez and spend the winter along the mainland coast - first stop San Blas and then south at least to Manzanillo, with many stops in between.

Some initial comments about southern Baja: The weather is great - warm and dry with the odd cloudy day now and then; Prices for most things are well below U.S. - maybe 30-50% lower and I'm sure the income levels are much, much lower, and the people seem very happy with their way of life here; There is no begging or panhandling and no evidence of crime, although most drivers here would be jailed if in the U.S.; I'm looking forward to seeing and learning more of this country and it's people on the mainland in the next several months.

That's it for now, Hasta luego, mi amigos y bueno vientos marineros,

Terry, still aboard S/V "Secret O' Life" AND - I want to wish all of you a Very Merry Christmas and a Joyous and Prosperous New Year !!!!