Zihuatanejo 1
25 January 2002
Terry Bingham
I arrived after a pleasant several days voyage from Barra de Navidad, stopping along the way in Santiago Bay, near Manzanillo, and two other anchorages south. After a few days of getting my bearings in this new-to-me area, Tammy flew in to visit for a couple of weeks, and after a great celebration of my 57th birthday at a nice palapa on the beach overlooking the anchorage, we pulled up and headed south for Acapulco. This would be a short visit, but we both wanted to see the big city. It's about a twenty hour trip and we first glimpsed the city from about 20 miles off at 0400 in the morning. Built on hills rising quickly from the shore, this city of over two million souls was impressive with thousands of twinkling bright lights covering the slopes, reminding me somewhat of the view inland from Santa Monica Bay in southern California. Obviously an atmospheric condition, perhaps accentuated by the humidity, I had never seen a display as remarkable as this, and it was captivating. We entered the harbor after daybreak and found the way to La Marina Acapulco, once a nicely constructed facility, but it sustained hurricane damage several years ago and has never been repaired, leaving the docks in questionable condition. There was also no water, so no bathrooms or showers, but inexplicably, a rooftop pool in excellent condition where we enjoyed several afternoons and would go up in the evening as a shower substitute.
While only in the city for a couple of days, we were able to take in visits to the old town and the mercado there, the beautifully restored Fort San Diego, with the best museum I have yet to see in Mexico, the Club de Yates de Acapulco, with it's fine clubhouse and dock facilities, and finally an evening's performance of the famous 'cliff divers', which still brings out thousands every day to witness their spectacular dives. Having somewhat limited time, we hauled anchor for a pleasant tour around the perimeter of the huge bay, gawking at the numerous million dollar (that would be ten million peso) homes climbing the surrounding hills. Being only a four hour drive on toll road from Mexico City and it's multimillions, many of these fantastic structures must be second homes to the richest citizens there.
We continued around the south end of the bay another four miles to Puerto Marquez, a smaller harbor with great anchorage. Snuggling in close in front of a solitary resort at the north end of the bay, we spent a couple days enjoying the quiet change from bustling Acapulco, before leaving to head back north to Zihuatanejo. At 16 - 48N and 099 -50W, Puerto Marquez would be the most southern and eastern point Secret O' Life has ventured to date. Traveling north, we stopped for an overnight at the quiet anchorage of Puerto Escondido de Papanoa, before moving on to arrive back in the bay at Zihua and Tammy's departure to return to winter in the Pacific Northwest. I would stay on in the bay, deciding this was a good spot to undertake several boat projects for the next month or two. A new problem that appeared on our return from Acapulco was an apparent leakage of diesel fuel into the engine sump which would have to be dealt with before making any further passages. I added this to the list, secured the hatch, boarded the dinghy and headed for town - a custom-built cheeseburger and cold beer was waiting.
Hasta luego amoigos, Terry, still aboard s/v Secret O' Life.