Now where were we? Oh yeah, Sunday 1 Aug, leaving Juneau, headed for Elfin Cove via Hoonah. Gastineau Channel, running in the fog - actually the ceiling was about 50' meaning that we could see where we were going, but the cruise ships coming into Juneau had their wheelhouses up in the fog, so they ran with their fog horns going, using their radar for visibility; while we could see them, with our eyeballs just fine. Westbound then north in Stephens Passage, then Saginaw Channel, 180 degrees around Pt. Retreat at the north end of the Mansfield Peninsula (of Admiralty Island), southbound in Chatham Strait, then westbound into Icy Strait. South into Port Frederick and there's Hoonah N58º 06.72' W135º 27.24'.

We were here last year about this same time, and met some of the same folks here now. Only had one beer at The Office, as things were looking like heading for a wrestling match. Couldn't talk Mac into trying out the zip line ride, so headed off early in the morning. Next time though, we really need to spend some time down at the cultural center on the point. There was a cruise ship docked there as we left, and it's clear there's more to see.

2 Aug, Icy Strait to South Passage to South Inian Pass to Elfin Cove N58º 11.88, W136º 21.03'. But that hardly tells the story - the low clouds cleared up and the humpback whales showed up. Breaching, tail-lobbing, fin-slapping and spy-hopping! A continuous show for hours. Upon reaching Elfin Cove, we managed to fit into the last space left on the single dock. Shirley - proprietress of Coho's Bar & Grill, and childhood classmate to both Dorothy and me, was waiting at the dock for us. We found Shirley in Elfin Cove last year (after not seeing her, or hearing anything about her since high school graduation 1967); she's been in Elfin Cove since the 70s. About 7 weeks ago, the fishing lodge next door caught fire. Shirley's residence above and behind the business was pretty much totaled, while there was lots of heat, smoke and water (sea water) damage to the business.

When we arrived at Elfin, Shirley had things well in hand - new construction on a smaller residence above the business; repairs and cleaning to the business. We indentured ourselves to Shirley for the week and proceeded to do whatever was needed for the next 7 days. Shirley has great friends in Elfin who we'd met briefly last year, but got to know better now: Joe & Marilyn who have Eagle Charters, have provided room and board for Shirley since the fire, and during our stay fed us as well - great people! Steve and Deb, who run the pilot boat for Cross Sound and Mary Jo who has lived in Elfin year-round for 39 years have all been helping Shirley out, one way and another (not to forget many others whose names I don't know or can't remember). Dennis and his brother Lane were hard at work sheet-rocking, wiring, mudding and texturing; mainly in the business. A smaller residence than before has been framed in, but the focus at this point is getting the business ready to go again first thing next season.

Our daughter Kate has created an MV DavidEllis page on Facebook which has tons of photos - far more than we can put onto Sailblogs. There's a bunch of the fire and reconstruction there if you're interested.

Kurt & Marcia on MV Alpenglow have, in the meantime, had their own adventures. They left Auke Bay, Juneau ahead of us and explored parts of Glacier Bay National Park before joining us at Elfin Cove mid-week. They borrowed work clothes and pitched right in with Dorothy, Mac, Rusty and me to help out. Good Sports!

During our week at the Elfin dock, me met folks aboard a boat out of the Fremont district of Seattle - remember the place with naked bicyclists and zombies? One of the people aboard lives in Hong Kong, in Soho, on Prince's Terrace (which is exactly where we were this past March when we went back to HK for Rugby 7s - small world!) Another family was from Santa Cruz and knew folks we knew during our time living there; a couple from Chile; and friends of DE's builder, Bill Kimley, from Richmond and Berkeley.

As has been the case everywhere we've been in Alaska, last year and this, we met folks on their fishing boats; great people who are invariably friendly and helpful. One boat which comes immediately to mind is FV Island Girl. A family with teenage son and daughter operate her during the summer. They rafted up to us overnight at the Elfin dock, and we talked for only 5 minutes in the rain, but got a good feeling about them. Then a week later, here in Sitka where I'm writing this now, Dorothy, Rusty and I are walking down the float dock, and a fellow approaching us says: "Hi Rusty, Mike, Dorothy!"... it took me a couple of minutes before I realized this was Mike off Island Girl.

One afternoon we all played hooky from working at Coho's and motored across to Granite Bay (George Islands) on Alpenglow. There's a trailhead there which goes over hill and dale to a bluff overlooking Cross Sound. And on that bluff, is a WWII-era coastal defense gun, about 20 foot long, now rusted and canted downwards. Across the strait, I understand the foundations were put in for a companion gun, but the weapon was never placed. If you think about the fact that early in WWII, the Japanese occupied two of the Aleutian Islands, it's no surprise that provisions would be made to protect the entrance to the Inside Passage. Looking at the site and imagining being assigned there... a very lonely post.

Finally, with Coho's at the point where Shirley can open her business again next spring, we departed Elfin Cove, but not before we had a little bit of excitement that caused Mac, Dorothy and I to reminisce a bit about our so-called careers in law enforcement.... and that's all I'm saying about that (until he's committed for trial).

Monday morning 9 Aug Elfin Cove to the town of Pelican on Lisianski Inlet, (in)famous for Rosie's Bar. Definitely worth the stop; a stunning setting and friendly folks.

0530 10 Aug Alpenglow and DavidEllis departed Pelican headed for Sitka. With Shirley aboard, and needing to be into Sitka for work on Thursday, DE headed out Lisianski Strait into the Gulf of Alaska while Alpenglow took the longer inside route. This is the first time DE and I have been outside since coming off the Gulf, into Cross Sound last year. Our 12 hour run to Sitka (half outside) was in fog with small wind and modest seas/swell. We had one para-vane fish out for stability as the seas were abeam, but basically had an uneventful and and pleasant passage down the coast to Sitka N57º 03.74', W135º 21.96. With the exception of one member of the crew who left a bit of a chunder-streak down the side of the boat.... and that also, is all I'm saying about that.

We continue to grow more fond of Alaska every day. Our good friend Wade is here in Sitka, and will join the crew for the return trip to Seattle; Rusty and he are bonding.