31/08/2011 Kos

We had had enough. The Meltimi had won and we turned tail and ran. The forecast said a small 36 hour window of light west to south west winds was due so we hightailed it east. We let go the lines and weighed anchor ........ nearly. It was caught on a huge chain and concrete block, the remains of an abandoned lazy line system, 25m out from the dock. Luckily a nice young Greek lad who I had chatted to the previous day in a neighbouring yacht offered to try to dive the 4 to 5 metre depth to see if he could trip the anchor. After several attempts we managed to free our anchor and were on our way. The young man refused all offers of a reward and wished us a pleasant trip.

We motor sailed across to Ios and grabbed the last berth on the town pier. We kept the boat well off the dock as we had heard of the ferry wakes that caused problems there. Next day we started at about 9.30 am and made a 10 hour trip to Levitha. We arrived at 7.45pm as the sun set and anchored thankfully just as darkness fell. On the way we had seen dolphins, had detoured into an anchorage in Amorgos to check it out for future years and passed close to the eastern end of that Island to see it's 2,000 foot high cliffs dropping spectacularly into the sea. (see photo)

The next morning we set off at 6.30am for Lipsi but two thirds of the way across the winds sprang up to 25 knotts and we began battling quickly rising seas. I put the motor on to keep us on course whilst we shortened sail and suddenly the engine died. I explained to Mady that the fuel line might have picked up some dirt as we were heeled well over and rocking around a lot. I was annoyed with myself as I should not have put the engine on in those conditions. We decided to head for Lakki on Leros as we knew the bay was big and roomy and that there were two marinas and trades people there to fix the engine should we need them. We sailed into Lakki and tacked up the harbour then circled outside the marina whilst we tried to get them to send a boat out to help us get in. They refused. They did however, point us to an outside concrete pier where we could tie up. So we put all the fenders on one side and sailed onto the dock with half a mainsail. We docked without a problem. I decided to get a mechanic to check the fuel lines and bleed the system. I had not done this before and so I watched carefully as he found the blockage in the primary tank pick-up tube, cleared it and then bled the system. Next time I will be able to do it. The tank obviously has some dirt in it and will need cleaning out at some stage. A fuel additive may help to dissolve any dirt and we will try this as well. We tested the engine and moved into the marina for the night. This marina is quite new and reasonable and we have met a few people who winter over here but it is still dearer than Marmaris.

The next day we were back on track and headed the short distance to Lipsi. We berthed after three attempts as the anchor slid over the weed coated bottom. Yanni the dock manager was there to greet us as before and we were glad to be back. We stayed two nights and we watched the forecast with growing frustration as the Meltimi kept blowing. We had a nice meal out with a Turkish couple we were docked next to, Lutfi and Serop, from Istanbul and their golden retriver Lucy. Both Mady and I had way too much ouzo and suffered the next morning. We decided to forget our plan of heading for Samos and turned south running before 2 metre swells and 18 knot winds. We scurried all the way down to Kos. As we approached the Kos Strait we were greeted by three dolphins who briefly paused to play with us. This is the first time dolphins have interacted with us. We went inside the Town basin but all the marina berths were taken. We found space on the other side where there was no electrical posts but water was available and there was no charge. We suffered the Gullet wakes in the morning and evening but all and all a good spot. We spent three nights here as Mady had a bad muscle strain in her back. We dosed her with Voltarin and waited for it to work. We ate out at a cheap Gyro Restaurant for two nights and loaded the boat with booze for the remaining weeks as it is so much cheaper here than in Turkey. ie 5L of reasonable wine for 7 Euro. We were berthed next to a nice couple on a 43 foot catamaran, Ian and Sentina, and had drinks with them on the last night in Kos. They spend time in Auckland each year as they have a house there so we will catch up with them this summer.

Today is our last day in Greece for this year. Leanne is across the bay in her cruise ship in Bodrum! So close but destined not to meet up this year. It is twelve months since we had the girls on Delightful Lady - time does fly.

Tomorrow we head for Turkey.