Our Ever-Changing Backyard

19 June 2024 | Ҫandarli, Turkey
10 June 2024 | Ҫeşme Marina and Goldensands Beach, Turkey
03 June 2024 | Aegean Sea
18 May 2024 | Saronic Gulf, Greece
14 May 2024 | Porto Montenegro to Athens
14 April 2024 | Zakinthos to Sounion, Greece
13 November 2023 | Orikum, Albania
30 October 2023 | Durrës, Albania
29 October 2023 | Porto Montenegro to Athens, Greece
22 August 2023 | Montenegro
18 April 2023 | Monopoli, Italy - Zadar, Croatia
09 April 2023 | Korčula, Croatia

Exploring Badija - near Korčula, Croatia

01 April 2023 | Otok Badija, near Korcula, Croatia
Vandy Shrader
July 2022

Our next destination was the island of Korčula, whose ancient walled city was home to some of my forebears. Though my father and my sister had visited Korčula, I'd never been, and I was really looking forward to it.

Before reaching Korčula, we first wove our way among the constellation of islets scattered off the eastern end of the island, each one a bright, white-and-green jewel surrounded by the clear, turquoise water of the Adriatic Sea.


Islets near Korcula

The waterways were busy with boats - Korčula has a busy charter base and is a popular cruising ground. It was midday, and we were looking for a good place to anchor, within easy dinghying distance to Korčula town. We checked the anchorage near the island of Badija (Otok Badija), with its large monastery and church. The water faded from turquoise to light green as it shoaled over brilliant white sand. I held my breath as Eric steered Awildian through a pass between two islets, where the chart indicated a depth of 8 feet, and the water was clear enough to see every stone and blade of sea grass on the bottom. If the bottom had shoaled since the chart was made, the water would be shallower...The depth quickly dropped from 20 feet, to 15, 11, 10, 9, 8...and then 9, 10, and back up again. I let out my breath. Ok, so the chart was still correct. Also, I'm not used to having a boat that draws only about 4 ½ feet.

Even though the Badija anchorage looked promising, we pushed on to check out a couple of other anchorages around the other side of Korčula town. Rounding the small peninsula on which the walled town stands, we marveled at the old gray stone buildings with their red roofs, all packed into a small area, with a sturdy, fortified wall around most of it. The anchorages on the west side of Korčula didn't appeal to us, so we turned around and headed back to Badija.

On our way, we passed close to the town, and I looked up at the portion of the town that didn't have the wall (which I later learned was called "the living room" by locals). Here, small restaurants lined the street, their outdoor seating areas shaded by fragrant aleppo pines. Scanning the signs, I saw a name I recognized: TEDESCHI.

"Hey," I hollered to Eric, "I see Pizzeria Tedeschi!" (More about this in the next blog post.)

Back at Badija, we dropped Awildian's anchor, joining two other boats who were already enjoying the picturesque anchorage. "The monks had all the best real estate," Eric quipped. He's not wrong.



Deer, priests, cicadas, but no nudists

I scanned the shoreline through my binoculars. "Were those deer?!" Yes they were. A small herd of fallow deer call the island home. It all began with two pairs brought there in 1958 and well, what do you expect to happen, when you put two couples on an island paradise? These days, the deer wander around, hanging out mostly near the quays where the tourist boats and water taxis dock, enjoying handouts from the visitors. Apparently the deer can't read, because they often stand right next to the "Please do not feed the deer" sign while they're enjoying their treats. My sister said that they especially liked the cherries she'd brought with her.



We took our dinghy to shore to do some exploring.


A pretty heart stone that I took home



A walk around the island's shoreline provided us with stunning vistas across the water,


Korcula in the distance

lots of cool shade courtesy of the pines,



and a deafening rendition of the cicada symphony. Along the way we discovered a sad-looking playground, and a dilapidated mini-golf course.


Sad minigolf

Actually it was beyond dilapidated, whatever that word would be.

This sign caught our attention:



FKK? We looked it up. FKK is the abbreviation for the German words "Frei Körper Kultur" which translates as "free body culture." In other words, nudists; in this particular case, a nude beach. Ah, apparently the island's priests didn't want nudists in their front yard. I get that.

A surprise visit from faraway friends

One day, a pretty blue X-boat came into the anchorage, heading toward Awildian. As it got closer, we could see that the people on board were waving at us. That was strange...we don't know anyone who's sailing in the Med. Or do we? When they got close, we were amazed to see that the boat's name was Zensation, and her crew was our friends, Cindy and Geert, whom we'd last seen in New Zealand in 2021. Since then, they'd sold the original Zensation, flown home to the Netherlands, and later bought the current Zensation in Italy. Now here they were, sailing in the same places as we were again! They did a fly-by and then anchored a short distance away.


Zensation and Greyhound

They dropped their anchor near a boat that looked very familiar: a sturdy metal boat with a silhouette of a greyhound on it...that had to be Greyhound, with our friends Marie and Dieter, whom we'd also last seen in New Zealand in 2021!

Oh my gosh! We six, who'd last spent time together on the other side of the world, had converged here, in the little anchorage at Badija! How cool was that?!

But how uncool was this: I'd just tested positive for Covid, so I couldn't hang out with them.

Undeterred, Eric and I put on face masks and dinghied over to Zensation, where Cindy, Geert, Marie, and Dieter had gathered. Floating in our dinghy nearby, we had a really nice chat with the four of them, catching up a bit, and finding out where they were heading next. The next morning, both boats swooped past Awildian so their crews could say, "see you later!" I'm sure we will.
Comments
Vessel Name: Awildian, previously SCOOTS (2012-2021)
Vessel Make/Model: Leopard 48
Hailing Port: San Francisco, CA
Crew: Eric and Vandy Shrader
About: We've been living aboard full time since September 2014. We sailed our Able Apogee 50, SCOOTS, from 2012-2021, and are now aboard our Leopard 48, Awildian, since March 2022.
Social:
Awildian, previously SCOOTS (2012-2021)'s Photos - Main
26 Photos
Created 18 June 2024
6 Photos
Created 10 June 2024
10 Photos
Created 3 June 2024
18 Photos
Created 18 May 2024
18 Photos
Created 14 April 2024
16 Photos
Created 27 January 2024
10 Photos
Created 15 December 2023
36 Photos
Created 27 November 2023
13 Photos
Created 13 November 2023
19 Photos
Created 29 October 2023
37 Photos
Created 21 August 2023
20 Photos
Created 8 August 2023
54 Photos
Created 1 August 2023
93 Photos
Created 27 July 2023
75 Photos
Created 4 May 2023
34 Photos
Created 1 April 2023
19 Photos
Created 15 March 2023
20 Photos
Created 11 December 2022
9 Photos
Created 20 November 2022
24 Photos
Created 4 November 2022
14 Photos
Created 9 October 2022
12 Photos
Created 18 September 2022
5 Photos
Created 30 August 2022
23 Photos
Created 21 August 2022
8 Photos
Created 8 August 2022
1 Photo
Created 3 August 2022
6 Photos
Created 1 August 2022
5 Photos
Created 18 July 2022
21 Photos
Created 12 July 2022
38 Photos
Created 3 July 2022
15 Photos
Created 11 June 2022
1 Photo
Created 19 May 2022
6 Photos
Created 26 March 2021
27 Photos
Created 6 August 2020
7 Photos
Created 22 March 2020
8 Photos
Created 16 December 2019
3 Photos
Created 13 October 2019
43 Photos
Created 28 September 2019
27 Photos
Created 27 July 2019
1 Photo
Created 15 July 2019
11 Photos
Created 3 July 2019
3 Photos
Created 6 May 2019
13 Photos
Created 4 March 2019
2 Photos
Created 26 November 2018
16 Photos
Created 18 November 2018
11 Photos
Created 27 October 2018
12 Photos
Created 1 October 2018
6 Photos
Created 21 September 2018
9 Photos
Created 19 July 2018
7 Photos
Created 19 June 2018
No Photos
Created 19 June 2018
11 Photos
Created 18 October 2017
7 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 24 July 2017
14 Photos
Created 12 April 2017
35 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 20 March 2017
18 Photos
Created 2 March 2017
19 Photos
Created 16 February 2017
4 Photos
Created 18 January 2017
30 Photos
Created 14 December 2016
29 Photos
Created 5 November 2016
52 Photos
Created 23 October 2016
24 Photos
Created 12 October 2016
49 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 15 September 2016
43 Photos
Created 2 September 2016
46 Photos
Created 4 August 2016
32 Photos
Created 21 July 2016
12 Photos
Created 1 July 2016
15 Photos
Created 20 June 2016
17 Photos
Created 5 June 2016
1 Photo
Created 3 June 2016
45 Photos
Created 11 May 2016
10 Photos
Created 2 May 2016
2 Photos
Created 1 April 2016
13 Photos
Created 22 March 2016
12 Photos
Created 14 March 2016
2 Photos
Created 9 March 2016
5 Photos
Created 19 January 2016
7 Photos
Created 27 December 2015
6 Photos
Created 16 December 2015
No Photos
Created 27 November 2015
4 Photos
Created 1 November 2015
19 Photos
Created 28 July 2015
4 Photos
Created 23 July 2015
6 Photos
Created 11 July 2015
13 Photos
Created 21 June 2015
9 Photos
Created 15 June 2015
12 Photos
Created 28 May 2015
No Photos
Created 28 May 2015
17 Photos
Created 5 May 2015
2 Photos
Created 30 April 2015
35 Photos
Created 24 April 2015
8 Photos
Created 25 March 2015
8 Photos
Created 10 March 2015
49 Photos
Created 14 February 2015
7 Photos
Created 10 February 2015
20 Photos
Created 26 January 2015
24 Photos
Created 20 December 2014
No Photos
Created 20 December 2014
10 Photos
Created 11 December 2014
5 Photos
Created 3 December 2014
11 Photos
Created 14 November 2014
34 Photos
Created 10 November 2014
4 Photos
Created 26 October 2014
4 Photos
Created 26 October 2014
5 Photos
Created 18 October 2014
8 Photos
Created 1 October 2014
16 Photos
Created 1 October 2014
6 Photos
Created 24 September 2014
9 Photos
Created 23 September 2014
8 Photos
Created 21 September 2014
4 Photos
Created 20 September 2014
5 Photos
Created 18 September 2014
5 Photos
Created 10 September 2014
4 Photos
Created 26 August 2014
1 Photo
Created 25 July 2014
2 Photos
Created 14 May 2014
49 Photos
Created 3 November 2013
32 Photos
Created 8 August 2013
Pics from our trip time aboard Scoots in July 2013.
23 Photos
Created 7 July 2013