Awildian's last night in Porto Montenegro

The Hello-Goodbye Pendulum

Our cruising lifestyle requires that we submit to a constantly-swinging Pendulum of Hello - Goodbye - Hello - Goodbye, as we continually arrive in, and then leave, places. Over and over, we say hello, we say goodbye. Back in the fall, when we'd arrived at Porto Montenegro, where we reunited with old friends, and made some new ones, the Pendulum was well into Hello territory. But as the end of April approached, and the Pendulum swung inexorably toward the Goodbye end of its arc, it was time to say goodbye to our friends again, and I was feeling sad. I much prefer the Hello end.

April 30, 2025
Porto Montenegro, Tivat, Montenegro 42º26.03'N,18º41.33'E →
Gruž, Croatia 42º39.58'N,18º05.09'E →
Dubrovnik River, Čajkovići, Croatia 42º40.27'N,18º07.20'E



Today was a long, exciting, busy, and somewhat bittersweet day for Awildian's crew, which now included my sister, Tara, who was visiting from the United States. Eric and I were stoked beyond words, to have her with us.

The morning began like every other day while we're at Porto Montenegro Marina, with me enjoying time with the local cats and pigeons, who came every day to eat the food that I brought for them. I'm not above bribery for their company.

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One of my cat friends


Some of my pigeon friends

But this morning was different: I knew that this would be the last morning that we would spend time together. Because, when Awildian left the marina today, unlike the previous two departures, we had no plans to return.


Awildian in his winter berth, Porto Montenegro

We left our berth at 6:50 am. Five minutes later we were at the fuel dock. We'd thought it opened at 7 am, but the marinero who caught our lines there said he thought it opened at 8 am. No matter. At 7:40 am, one of the fuel dock guys showed up, and we filled Awildian's tanks with diesel. It's always a good feeling, to see the fuel gauge indicator on the F.

After filling up, we motored the hundred meters or so to Porto Montenegro's Customs quay, where we tied up again. Eric had taken care of one part of the three-part checking-out process the day before - visiting the harbormaster to clear out with her, and pay for a one-day vignette (cruising permit) - so all he had to do today was clear out with Customs and Immigration, which took only about fifteen minutes. While Awildian was tied up at the quay, many of our friends wandered by, to say one last goodbye before we all dispersed for the cruising season. That Pendulum...

As Awildian glided away from the Customs quay, Eric blew his conch shell in farewell, as he's done for more than a decade, since finding the shell in Mexico, and creating the horn from it. As of 8:30 am, we were on our way to Croatia.

On our way out of the Boka (Bay of Kotor), we pointed out landmarks to Tara - the old submarine bunkers along the shore, the new swanky resort island that was once a concentration camp, the wooded hills where jackals roamed - and we waved at the Black Pearl, who was returning to her home berth at Porto Montenegro Marina, after several months away sailing warmer waters.


The always-stunning Black Pearl

As soon as we left the Boka, and turned right, we were in Croatian waters. No long passage to start our cruising season this year!

Today, the sun was shining, the wind was light, the turquoise Adriatic Sea was sparkling and calm, as we motored toward our destination - either Cavtat (about 30 miles away) or Gruž/Dubrovnik (a dozen miles farther).


Tara and Eric in the helm station

There was some uncertainty about whether the Customs quay at Cavtat, the southernmost port in Croatia, was open for business yet. If it was open, we were required (under penalty of a stiff fine) to check in there, as it would be the first clearance port that we encountered. If not, we would have to carry on to Gruž, Dubrovnik's busy port, a couple of hours farther north. When we got close to Cavtat, I called the harbormaster on the VHF radio a few times, but they didn't respond.

Before leaving Porto Montenegro, those of us who were planning to sail north through Croatia set up a WhatsApp group, so we could share information with each other. To make it even better, John Harvey, who had operated charter boat outfits in Croatia, is knowledgeable about all things relating to cruising in Croatia, and still lives near Dubrovnik, was also in our group.

Because we didn't have a way to phone the harbormaster directly, I sent a text to the WhatsApp group, asking if one of them who was still in Porto Montenegro could call the Cavtat harbormaster to find out the scoop. The answer came back that the Customs quay was closed; John also chimed in to let us know that Gruž port control monitors VHF Ch9.

That sorted, we carried on to Gruž. As we passed Old Town Dubrovnik, Tara and I got the fenders out of storage and deployed them on the lifelines. Boy is it nice having an extra person on board!


Approaching Gruž

When we got close to Gruž, I called the port on VHF Ch9 and was told where to bring Awildian. This was handy because the huge port is very busy, with boats of all sizes - from small runabouts to ferries to cruise ships - moving around or tied up on the cement quay. As Awildian approached his appointed spot along the wall, two men came over in a golf cart, caught our lines, and tied them to the bollards on shore. We thanked them and they left without asking for any payment; I mention this because there have been rumors that some dockline handlers in Croatia charge for their services. These didn't.

While Tara and I hung out on Awildian, Eric took our passports and paperwork to the building at the head of the quay, where officials from all three prongs of the clearing-in process - harbormaster, port police, and Customs - were located. This was very convenient; in some places we've been (Preveza, Greece, for instance), clearing in (or out) is a multi-building treasure hunt. When Eric returned a little while later with our passports stamped, our entry paperwork sorted, and a Croatian SIM card for my phone (from a kiosk located near to the admin building), we untied the lines and headed out of Gruž.

Once outside of the port, we turned right and headed under the Franjo Tuđman Bridge (Tuđman is pronounced "tudjman."), motoring up the Dubrovnik River, to a spot near the ACI Marina where Eric and I had anchored back in 2022. We like this anchorage because it provides good holding for our anchor, and it's convenient for getting to Old Town Dubrovnik. Along the way, Tara and I put the fenders away. Such good help, she is!

When we reached the spot where we wanted to be, I dropped our anchor (Obama) into the water, and let out an appropriate length of anchor chain. Obama sunk into the muddy bottom, and when Eric put Awildian in reverse, the anchor dug in, holding Awildian in place. Excellent!

And just like that, we were done. Anchored, settled, beginning the nomadic portion of our existence again. The three of us celebrated with Aperol Spritzes. Montenegro - especially the people and the animals I care about there - still calls to me, and probably will for awhile. But even as I feel sad about leaving Porto Montenegro, I realize that each end of the Pendulum actually encompasses both Goodbye and Hello: Goodbye Montenegro, Hello Croatia. Goodbye dear friends in Tivat, Hello new friends I haven't met yet. Goodbye old adventures, Hello new adventures. One door closes, another opens. I guess that's just as true of cruising, as it is of life.


The Dubrovnik River anchorage at night