The Voyages of s/v Silverheels III

...a virtual ship's logbook, and some thoughtful (unabashed?) reflections on our sea-going experiences.

04 November 2017 | Somewhere in the Eastern Caribbean
18 October 2017 | Le Marin, Martinique in the French West Indies
25 January 2017 | Gosier, Guadeloupe
19 January 2017 | Le Gosier, Guadeloupe
19 January 2017 | Le Gosier, Guadeloupe
19 January 2017 | St Pierre, Martinique
06 January 2017
01 January 2017 | Fort Du France, Martinique
28 December 2016 | Grand Anse d'Arlet, Martinique
24 December 2016
14 November 2016 | St Anne, Martinique
06 October 2016 | St Anne, Martinique
04 October 2016
20 July 2016 | Rodney Bay, St Lucia
15 June 2016
15 June 2016
13 June 2016 | Grand Anse d'Arlets
13 June 2016 | Grand Anse d'Arlets
09 May 2016 | Deshaies, Guadeloupe

St. Vincent Check-In

16 May 2013 | Young's Island Cut, St. Vincent
Lynn
It's been a fairly eventful last couple of days, at least by our standards!

Monday we left the dock at Rodney Bay Marina to continue our southerly migration. Our new batteries are working wonderfully, and the new prop for the dinghy is awesome. We had the trouble before with our old prop with getting our dinghy on plane, but she goes like hell now! But I digress. We were south of the bay when we gave our friends on 'Amoray' a shout on the radio, to find out that their boat had been broken into while they were enjoying the Jazz Festival the night before. Dammit. The t'iefs even got Glen's birthday presents. We eventually got down to the moorings between the Pitons.

We have admittedly become a little more crusty towards boat boys. I don't mind money spent when needed, but to pick up a simple mooring is something we have done many, many times now. Even the not-so-simple moorings are something we are pretty good at, so when the boat boys offered their services to help us pick up a mooring, we politely declined. Besides, the dings in our gelcoat on our topsides are 90% boat boy induced, and we didn't feel like dealing with that possibility, either. We picked up the mooring with zero difficulty (although one of the guys hovered near by in case we screwed up). Later, it was the Marine Ranger who did the dinging of the boat. The "kid" is one of those aggressive throttle users, and whacked our topsides where he didn't have a fender. His fender, when it finally hit our hull, also left a large blue stain on our hull. He wasn't forthcoming with even an apology, however I wasn't going to let him off lightly. He now knows my opinion of his unprofessional boat handling skills, and that apologies are required. I am glad we didn't spend money on getting our hull polished in Rodney Bay this time around!

Tuesday was a civilized 7:30 am departure from between the Pitons. When we got to the south end of St. Lucia, there was an uncomfortable amount of swells and waves, more than "advertised" in the weather forecasts. In my mind, I figured we would give it an hour to see if it would improve, otherwise we would turn back... and it did improve. We had a decent trip down to St. Vincent, although the autopilot steered like a drunk. We would really like one of the new "smarter" versions!

Chateaubelair is the first acknowledged anchorage in St. Vincent. In the past, it had a bad reputation (deservedly) for armed robberies, break-ins and other thefts from cruisers, however, it has been incident-free for about two years now. That seems to be the nature of crime in the Eastern Caribbean - a place can be terrible for a bit, the authorities or locals crack down, and it becomes wonderful again. There is also a tendency to ignore some stuff as a matter of convenience or putting one's head in the sand (i.e. the number of dinghy thefts in Grenada last year, and Rodney Bay, but not the same "voting with the keel" as many do for places like St. Vincent or other islands).

Our friends on 'Joanna' were anchored in Chateaubelair, so we thought we would join them. It is also (supposedly) a place where boats can check in with Customs and Immigration. We were greeted by Little George, a young man in a red kayak, who showed us where should anchor. He is the general "go-to" guy in Chateaubelair. He is protective of "his" cruisers, and will take care of anything for you, whether it be boat watching, garbage disposal, guiding you on a hike.... whatever.

Ken and I paddled the dinghy ashore so that I could do the necessaries with the local authorities (it's close enough that the outboard isn't needed, and the restaurant owner, George's cousin Philip, will happily keep an eye on your dinghy). Ken went back to the boat, and I walked in the annoying rain that turned into a downpour. Customs was closed (a house by the dock, with a hand lettered sign that says "Customs"). The person who does Immigration at the Police Station was also unavailable... maybe later, maybe tomorrow.

Wednesday morning I went for a run. The area north of Chateaubelair is very picturesque, with fields, farmers and cows. Mango trees showing the promise of a rich season lined the roads, and the farmers all carried an old fashioned hoe or a machete to take care of their crops. Everyone was very pleasant and friendly. I found my way to the Dark View Waterfalls, a groomed park area with a $5.00 EC admission fee. Since nobody was there to collect, I went in anyway. The bamboo bridge seems a little shaky to me but there is another solid bridge a little farther along (it is all wheelchair accessible, an uncommon occurrence in the islands). The falls are lovely.

Back to the boat and time to pull anchor. We figured we could check in farther down the island, wherever we ended up. We eyeballed the various bays (including watching the boat boys at Wallilabalou trying to wave us in) and decided to try Young's Island Cut, a place we had considered before. We rounded the south end of the island, and were reminded of why we didn't go there before - the wind rushes around the end of the island, blowing 20-30 knots- and throws up some decent waves, all on the nose. The last time we had considered doing this route, we gave up and sailed south to Bequia, an easy 8 mile jaunt. This time we persevered.

Upon reaching the Cut, we were met by Sparrow, journeyman to "Charlie Tango", a moorings and taxi/tours operator. He showed us to a mooring and accepted the drink that was offered (not the beer). While we were putting the dinghy together (outboard is a good idea here!), Ken's back did one of its' hissy fits, and locked up on him.

We walked, sore back and all, to the E.T. Joshua Airport, approximately 2.5 miles from where we are moored. We had heard we could check in there with Customs and Immigration, but weren't sure until we heard from Jimmy, owner of Charlie Tango, that this was true. We bought a bag of the local plums and walked and ate. Upon reaching the airport, we were directed through doors that said "Passengers Only" (???) and to see the Customs officials there that would never happen in North America!). We walked into the "Arrivals" hall of the airport. The Customs officers were wonderful to work with, and very welcoming. Immigration was less welcoming, and since we arrived after 4:00 pm, we had to pay them a $35.00 EC overtime fee (never mind the fact that they are there for the airplane passengers, anyway!) and he only gave us a month. As my Island friends say, "Stupes!"

We found a bit of a shortcut back which took us around the runway (the other end goes over the beach). The wrong side of the tracks here is living next to the runway, but we didn't feel threatened in any way as we walked there. Even the pothounds were non-threatening.

We went to one of the restaurants that line the waterway here for dinner and had seafood rotis. They were tasty, but probably a little too spicy for most tastebuds. We were home and in bed before 9:00.

On my run this morning I went by the area called the Lagoon. It is the home of a large charter fleet, and there is a small marina there, too. It has the not atypical mix of new boats and derelicts, fishing boats and workboats. Where we are in the cut is a little more accessible to things, from what I can see.

While I was on my run. Ken decided to see if he could get the Grenada Cruisers' Net from up here. He did manage to hear it through the repeater, and even check-in. Well, they know we are in the neighbourhood now!

We'll take a little time to let Ken's unhappy back settle (this is usually a two day phenomenon for him) before heading south into the Grenadines. While the moorings aren't the best priced ones we've seen, they are certainly solid, and we aren't going anywhere just yet. Besides, we can get more plums while we are here.
Comments
Vessel Name: Silverheels III
Vessel Make/Model: Hinterhoeller, Niagara 35 Mk1 (1979)
Hailing Port: Toronto
Crew: Lynn Kaak and Ken Goodings
About: After five summers and winters living on our boat in Toronto Harbour, we've exchanged those cold Canadian winters for Caribbean sunshine. "Nowadays, we have ice in our drinks, not under the boat."
Extra:
Silverheels III's Photos - Silverheels III (Main)
Photos 1 to 14 of 14
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Looking for the next bouy enroute
Our whole life in 35 feet
Our peaceful lagoon in summer
Toronto skyline from Algonquin Island
QCYC Marine Railway: Lynn "workin
Lynn carefully heat-shrinks our winter cover with a propane torch
Jes loafin
Ken on deck
Island Christmas Party December 2007
Silverheels III at anchor, Humber Bay West
Niagara 35 Mk1
 
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General pics of hikes in Grenada
6 Photos
Created 18 August 2013
Some pictures of our time in Grenada
9 Photos
Created 15 September 2010