February 17, 2018

Comuna 13 is one of sixteen barrios within the city of Medellin. It is built on a steep hillside and is one of the most densely populated barrios in the city. About 65% of the population (120,000) is under the age of 40. It is one of the poorest barrios in the city. Small stairways lead up to different levels. Colombians from the countryside moved to the city to work and to escape the terrorists of the growing drug trade. Thousands became squatters on unclaimed mountainsides. Houses were built one on top of the other.

The location of the neighborhood was valuable. It granted access to the main road-leading west out of the city (and north to the Caribbean coast). This main road was vital to control, as it provided access for transporting legal and illegal goods, as well as direct access to sea and shipping ports. In the 1980s-90s groups loyal to Pablo Escobar controlled it. It was an epicenter of violence and struggle for criminal control. After his death, gangs, cartels, paramilitary groups, and guerillas fought to gain control. The barrio had the highest murder rate in Colombia, and maybe the world. Finally in 2002 the Colombian military conducted a strike to overthrow the rebel groups. People were killed and hundreds were wounded. The community took to the streets in solidarity flying white rags. The residents continued to voice discontent and anger through street art. Although Hip Hop artists used their music to support community solidarity, more than 10 were murdered. Residents of all ages were caught in the crossfire, and forcibly displaced from their homes.

The neighborhood is slowly transforming itself because the government has been supportive. A series of six escalators rise 400 meters up a very steep neighborhood allow the residents easier access. Climbing 357 steep stairways used to take approximately 35 minutes. A newly built roadway can be used by motor scooters. Our guide said the murder rate has dropped dramatically. Children play outside, plants and flowers grow, and break dancers perform. Shop owners sell snacks and souvenirs. Street art is everywhere. It tells the story of a violent neighborhood’s survival.

The walls of the stairways, the landings, and houses glow with murals that are the expression of three main artists. The paintings with graphic faces, animals, and creatures that could be imagined by Dr. Seuss or George Lucas remind the people to “Never Forget” a violent and murderous history. Tourists have visited safely over the past four years during the day. There’s a newfound pride in the “Hood.”