April 2, 2018

We boarded Nakamakula, a catamaran, to transit the Panama Canal. Greig, Caroline, Dan and I were going to be line handlers. Leonard, Gayle and their daughters, Sydney, Astrid and Scarlett warmly welcomed us. While we waited for our advisor, the sky lightened as container ships, bulk cargo vessels, tankers and autoliners passed through the channel. We watched Panamax container ships (1000 plus feet) with amazement.

We tied alongside Zao, our buddy cat, and waited for Sarocha Naree to squeeze into the first lock. Greig, a boson in another life, prepared the lines. Dan caught the monkey’s fist as the canal worker pulled the line up. The doors closed us into a deep well. As the lock filled, Dan, Greig and Caroline tightened and loosened the lines to keep Nakamakula secure. Sarocha Naree engaged its props as the locks opened. The water swirled and churned as the salt and the fresh water mixed. Our advisor gave direction to the helmsman to turn left, increase prop speed, hold steady. We rose a total of 85 feet (26 meters) through the three chambers of the Gatun Locks.

To complete the transit in one day, we averaged 7 knots per hour as we crossed Gatun Lake to the Gaillard Cut where the Rio Charges flows into the channel. Staging areas for tugs and repair equipment dot the shoreline. A dredge was straightening and deepening the channel in the Gaillard Cut. A steady stream of “big boys and tugs” passed in each direction causing us to roll in the wakes. We were along for the ride.

As the starboard engine began to scream, Leo jumped into action quickly to change a broken belt. We were at risk of losing our place in the queue for transit. Our advisor obtained permission for us to cross in front of a petroleum tanker and to pass along side an autoliner. We tied to Zao, caught the monkey’s fist and watched as the liner entered the lock behind us. The mules pulled the carrier closer and closer with screeching cables until it hovered over our stern. We traveled through three locks into the mixing bowl of salt and fresh water at sea level.

We were humbled by the engineering in building the canals. We watched in amazement as two adjacent ships at Pedro Miguel Lock were joined by a third, a Panamax carrier, in Cocoli Lock. The double locks at Miliflores opened as we entered the channel to the Pacific. The Bridge of the Americas arched over us. We completed our journey in awe.