Now we are anchored in Siar, a spot on southern New Ireland. Outside what used to be UNDP (United Nations development program) buildings- which are now abandoned. When we anchored it was difficult, with many attempts to set the anchor- in what is really not a good anchorage at all. Rolly, bad holding and no protection- a bit of a "Kokopo" as we refer to it now. On the trip here we caught a yummy large mahi mahi, which has to be one of the most hideous fish alive with a large forehead. It was very tasty though, as delicious baked fillets and poisson cru.

We have come to Siar to meet a man called Paul who is a friend of Ella's mother and is an academic at Victoria University who stays in PNG villages and records their music. Unfortunately our attempt to cross paths has failed, he being away from the village for awhile. Its a pity because we were interested in first of all seeing an academic in the field and also the music that comes with what he is studying.

Nonetheless Siar is fantastic place to visit with very friendly people who have escorted us around on our adventures. The place is yet another victim of a natural disaster, with a large earthquake hitting them just over 10 years ago which has made them rather isolated, destroying the road and only connection to central and northern New Ireland. A large difference from what we saw of the Bolumski highway up north. A new school is opening to start in their village for February and the locals are working hard on the new homes for the new teachers to join them. Primary education is now free in New Ireland, attributed to the very controversial politician governor Julius Chen (also known for hiring South African mercenaries to deal with the Bougainville conflict) .

Our day started with an attempt to get a banana boat to take us to where Paul is working this week away from his village. First however we had to get fuel for the outboard and this meant riding it south alongside the steep, black sand beach. We stopped at a little village that looked just like any other, however with a barrel or so of petrol to sell. Quickly we realised we did not have enough cash and that it would be too expensive anyway to make the long voyage to Rei. So we retreated and they dropped us back at our boat. It was still worth the fun voyage with locals in the village heaving the large boat down and up the steep beach. At one time Ella felt a bit like an arabian princess, carried on a litter, embarrassed as well. As we were pushing the boat into the waves, the ten men or so motioned for both of us to jump on board so that we did not have to get wet. (We are not really worried about this because we are yachties) but anyway Ella obeyed and Eric didn't which meant, 11 men were pushing just her on this boat down the slope into the surf. Later we also enjoyed a couple of canoe rides over the surf too.

The next trip we made later was a walk down the disused highway to the nearby river mouth for a much needed wash. Plenty of butterflies led our way, many wonderful colours and varieties flittered around us, it felt similar to the Dunedin museum butterfly exhibition, and similar in temperature too, we can't imagine how we are going to survive the temperatures back home! The beautiful green bush, with pretty tropical flowers pressed close on both sides of the track grabbing at our shins as we whacked through. Interrupted only by stopping to shake hands with everyone we met - each one introduced to us as yet another family member (mostly aunties) of our guide. The river mouth was gentle and formed a pool that we relaxed in. A bit worried about its stillness hiding some crocodiles but Ella's favourite question: 'are there crocodiles?' made the locals quick to reassure us that it was safe. We really enjoy the feeling that fresh water brings after weeks and weeks of salt. Two young men called Frank and Billy walked us there and rejoiced in learning how to use our camera and taking some shots. A common theme here abroad where digital cameras, with their ability to show people the photo just taken, are a big hit.

Siar has also been a great place for our stockpiles, both with the pissing down rain filling our what were our almost dry tanks. But also with the amount of vegies and particularly fruit that people have gathered for us. Yes, we are the only yacht to have visited the area so we are quite a treat for them too. One of the things about cruising is we not only get to see the lives and cultures of people in other countries, but we also get to give them a glimpse of how we live. Its always fun having a couple of people back to the boat for a cup'a answering questions about our life style too. The first of these is almost always about storms at sea and how long it takes to travel from place to place. We think we are starting to get into the groove of this cruising thing.