Another short sail bought us back to beautiful Brooker Island. From our anchorage inside the lagoon we took the tender over the reef to the northern drop off and had two gorgeous drift dives along the wall. Perfect weather! Perfect diving! There were turtles, sharks, stingrays, wrasse, coral, and lots of small fish. I just never want to get out of the water on days like this. Our visitors included some more affluent kids home from the mainland for holidays and requesting their mobile phones be charged; and also Paul, 64 years old and an ex PNG Fisheries employee. Paul had in trained in Melbourne, Nelson, NZ and Gatton, Queensland during his career but was now back in the village though his kids were pursuing careers on the mainland. Paul pointed out the remains of many abandoned aid projects and businesses along the foreshore. He believes the traditional village culture has to change for islanders to be able to run successful businesses. The obligation to his extended family so often strips any hopeful entrepreneur of working capital: in these societies obligation to family transcends all else. Relatives with needs - school fees are a big one - expect access to accumulated money, and they don't understand or care about the distinction between working capital and profit. So businesses constantly fail and aid projects die once the establishment capital is consumed and management is left in the hands of locals. It is instructive that many of the successful local entrepreneurs are from other provinces, removed from the demands of their "wantoks" for handouts. On the other hand it is the reliance on a day to day basis of other family members that makes their contemporary lives easier, and so to deny that family reciprocity would be even more damaging. We were sad to leave the next day and overnighted at Nivani Island as we returned west. Photo: preparing to drift with the tender