Straddling two worlds
08 October 2011 | Hummock Island, Engineer Group, PNG
Kristina
En route from the Conflict Islands to the Engineer Islands we caught two big yellow fin tuna about 20 and 30 kgs each. These fed the village at Hummock Island that evening and it was a pleasure to receive the gifts of limes, pawpaws, etc from villagers as they visited to thank us the next day. Remulas, the old magistrate, and his family agreed to accompany us to Watts Island the next day to give the yachties' donations of school supplies to the school and we ended up with fifteen passengers on board Songline. Luckily it was a beautiful day and the journey across the lagoon took only an hour. It was lots of fun with the Hummock Island blokes hauling on sails and checking out our navigation system. They think we're rather funny needing all these 'extra' things on our boat when they sail many miles across open water with just the stars to guide them, in their very basic canoes held together with bits of string!
The Watts Island School Principal, Jeff Rubin and teacher, Stella were very pleased with books and school supplies from the cruisers. It is a gorgeous school and stunningly beautiful island. Our anchorage at Watts Island was excellent in the south easterly at: 10 37.041'S:151 17.432'E
We returned to Hummock Island with Remulas and his family. His sons: Rodney, Frank and Joe are excellent crew and that night they joined us on the back deck with their wives and children for a movie. We watched the Australian classic, "The Castle" which seemed apt as land rights are becoming an issue for the Hummock Islanders now their traditional fishing and hunting rights in the Conflict Island Group are under threat.
Henry, the Hummock Island policeman, sailed with us en route to Alotau and we dropped him to the village Divie on the mainland near the Killerton Islands. It highlighted the problem islanders have returning to the mainland without money to pay for their costs. Henry had been out fishing to catch fish for his family to pay for his visit but had no luck. However, we caught three excellent fish trolling during the trip so he was thrilled to be able to take fish to his home village. Chatting with Henry during the trip we found he had gone to grade 10 and once been a bulldozer driver on the mainland, shifting logs. When he married a Hummock Island girl (from his mother's village) he chose to make his home on the island opting out of the rat race... he cites clean air and good living for his children as key factors but "what about no income" we asked?? He hopes to make some money when the beche de mer season opens up again next year. It seems a not uncommon decision to go back to the island lifestyle by many who could choose town life.
Photo: our passengers watching "Finding Nemo" on the run home to Hummock Island