North Haven Island, Rustic & Remote
01 August 2011 | North Haven, ME
Cap'n Monty
We departed Seal Bay and Winter Harbor in the “fogshine”. That is my new term to describe the presence of both fog and sunshine at the same time. It is a truly amazing experience and it allows even the most daily reoccurring views to become the most intriguing vistas. As we made our way out onto the larger waters of Pen Bay, bathed in fogshine, Austin spied what appeared to be a partial view of a sail mast protruding above the fog. The visibility was about 2 miles at that time, so this was either an incredibly large sailboat or there was a thick patch of fog close by, in which she lied. We managed to pick her up on AIS as she disappeared in the fog and we determined that she was the former case, a 154ft really big sail boat. We took pictures of the mast-apparition and continued on our way northward towards the eastern entrance to the Fox Island thoroughfare, which cuts the land mass between Vinalhaven and North Haven Islands.
We encountered many other cool apparitions as we approached and entered the eastern end of the Fox Island Thoroughfare. We steamed through the sea of toggled lobster pots and between the two large islands. It wasn’t long before our destination was in sight. We were bound for North Haven harbor with hopes for a hot shower and laundry facilities. The Admiral informed us that she was down to one pair of underwear, which equates to a real laundry emergency. In fact, the laundry bag was so full and packed that it was a chore to carry! We determined from our Taft cruise guide that JO Browns Boatyard had moorings, showers, lobsters, and laundry, and so there we went.
In order to truly enjoy the Maine experience, you have to get used to the fact that things in rural Maine are not always like things elsewhere. For instance, a marina shower and laundry in rural Maine might differ significantly from a marina shower and laundry in Newport, RI or New York City. JO Browns Boatyard was a very rustic and time-frozen facility. As you walk to the office through the old dusty boat house, dodge the many mooring lines and other things hanging from the ceiling, and walk upon the wooden floor which is so care worn that the knots in the wood emerge from the surface like little mountains, you realize that you’re not in Kansas anymore. We checked in with the little old lady behind the desk, who looked as if she could either ring up your purchases or rebuild your boat engine, whichever you require. After collecting our $5 per shower ($20 for 4), she pointed the way to the shower facility. We walked through the boat yard, around all the stuff arrayed there, and into a very old building where we walked both up the stairs and then down the stairs to arrive at the showers. It suffices to say that the showers would serve, but just. Methinks they manage to keep them so clean because every time you turn around your back or butt wipes the shower wall clean. It was rustic, but the water was hot and it did the job.
After showers, we brought the laundry ashore and found the laundry room in a dark and dusty basement below the shower building. The washer/dryers were in good order, but you weren’t sure if you would be mugged and carried off by a large wharf rat at any moment while loading the machine. However, the machines served and $18 in quarters later our laundry was done. We got some lunch from a local snack bar, which was the only place on the island that was serving food at the time. $100 later we had enjoyed our burgers, beers, and sodas, and it was time to collect the laundry and return to the barky (the boat). We acquired some $5/gal unleaded fuel for the dinghy motor and 7 lobsters for our Maine last lobster bake this season. It should be mentioned here that the prices off common goods are affected by the fact that North Haven is a remote island community, where everything comes and goes by ferry. The price of food, fuel, and even trash disposal is elevated here. This fact is compounded by a difficult local economy which makes it hard for folks to make a living here. They make there money on the lobster fishery, boat service, tourism, and art. Despite the austere conditions I’ve described, it was still a treat to see it all and to meet these truly good and hard working people. I swear there’s an American flag flying for every person on the island that’s good enough for me anywhere.
We returned to the Song and prepared for our lobster bake aboard. The lobsters were very good, as expected. The lobsters are fairly cheap here as well. If only the dinghy motor would run on lobsters, we’d be good to go. During dinner, the neighboring sail boat moored beside us came alongside, but not to visit. Our moorings were placed rather close and during the confusion of slack water, our boats were bumping against one another. We fended the errant boat off and placed the Dixie betwixt to act as a fender while we finished our meal. Hopefully the s/v Fox would not visit again during the night. There were not other moorings free so we would sit this one out and deal with it if it occurred later. It would not be a problem, unless she was alongside when we got hit by a wake.
As darkness fell, so did the fog blanket us all about. Later, thunderstorms came across and we experienced our first “thunder fog”. It was truly cool to be blanketed in fog, while thunder and lightning crashed above. Each flash of lightning lit up the entire sky above like a big, fluffy, fluorescent light. I could have just sat and watched this in awe for hours, but I was so tired and sleep overruled. The light and sound show went on for many hours through the night, but contained no wind. I hate that I missed so much of it as it was a unique experience. Where else could you experience “thunder fog”?
Cap’n Monty
s/v Song Of The South
Moored in North Haven, ME