Splash 001

Since leaving Rodney Bay in St. Lucia, we took our time sailing down the western coast of St. Lucia. Our first stop was in Marigot Bay. This small anchorage is a perfect “hurricane hole” to escape high winds. It was noted that a British admiral hid his fleet of ships in this bay from the pursuing French fleet by tying palm branches and hanging coconuts from their masts! Here, we “treated” ourselves to a mooring ball serviced by the fancy Marina/Hotel; the Cappella Resort. As a mooring guest we enjoyed a beautiful infinity pool, poolside beverages, snacks, excellent wifi, dinner and a fresh water shower! The Windward Islands, as well as St. Lucia have very steep cliffs and volcanic mountains. In Marigot Bay, we climbed straight up the mountain path, clinging to rope hand rails at the summit to pull ourselves to the top for a spectacular view of the Bay. We wandered down the ridge trail to find ourselves at the Marigot Beach Club with cold beer waiting.
Our next sailing stop along the coast was Soufriers, which is the town right beside the famous Pitons; two volcanic mountain peaks right at the shore line. We moored in the bay between the Pitons the first night, and moved to a spot in front of the town. Wow, does the wind whistle through those Pitons!! For the next three days, we played tourist and enjoyed the unique features of Soufrieres. A walk south out of town, straight uphill led us to the Sulfur Springs Hot Mud Baths, a volcanic experience to behold! We entered the hot concrete tub with dark gray hot water and had mud buckets provided for washing all over our skin. Volunteers helped to “scrub” us down and paint black marks on our skin. After a fresh water shower, our skin was tingling!! The next day we enjoyed the Botanical Gardens, the Diamond Waterfall and clear mineral springs bath. Jim and I spent the extra dollar for a private bath! A small room with a large ceramic tub filled with hot mineral water!! Lovely way to enjoy an hour. Our last day in Soufrieres, we took a local bus to the entrance of the Tet Paul trail. Another half hour climb straight uphill brought us to the guided trail. Denver our local guide, 29 yr old native of the town proudly indicated different types of plants and various vegetables grown on site. The spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean, Carribean Ocean, and the Pitons were breathtaking!
We sailed to St. Vincent the next day, staying in Wallilabou briefly to check into customs and immigration; and to enjoy the leftover sets from the filming of “Pirates of the Carribean” about 10 years ago. The Customs office is in one of the small rooms used for the movie set, and the Immigration was an uphill 30 minute walk into town to the Police station. Walking through the streets of these little towns, we are made aware of the very poor living conditions of many of the local people. Houses have holes, rusted corregated roofs, painted rebarb sticking out everwhere, goats on ropes and waste water running down the sides of homes. Many of those walking the narrow roads have ragged clothing, bare feet or worn out flip flops. The “boat boys” who were prevalent in Soufrieres and Wallilabou are young men or boys who approach your boat within 2 miles of your destination. They ask if they can secure a mooring, take your garbage, take you on a tour; all for a fee. Our cruising guide book explains this practice and has names of reliable “boat boys”. Many of the younger boys would start with… “What’s the plan today? I’ll take you there! It’s what I do!” When Jim adamantly told Lucas and Sunshine that we did not need anything today; he sneered and said….” That’s bad business man!” On an old surf board, brother’s aged 14 and 10 asked “Hey mister, do you have anything to share? A biscut?” They were too cute; we gave them a baseball hat and some crackers. Thrilled, they paddled back to shore; only to have the older brother return on the board asking for more! Local people in the service industry selling their vegetables and necklaces are warm and friendly. Not used to hawkers in Canada; we have learned to make eye contact, respond with a firm “ no thank you” and keep walking! Many of the vendors that we talked to will ask where we are from and inquire if we are enjoying their Island of Paradise. Canadians are recognized as polite and respectful visitors in the Carribean.
Entering our seventh month living aboard SPLASH, we find ourselves at the southern end of our voyage in Admiralty Bay, Bequai. We enjoyed a “champagne” sail from St. Vincent to Bequai, beam reach, 14-19 knots of wind! Today we hope to purchase new phone cards (yes, new numbers again!) if the SIM cards are on the two o’clock ferry. Yesterday, we met the Taylors, locals who own a restaurant/bar/mini market store who are good friends of Jim’s neighbours in Fort Erie. We enjoyed a lovely lunch, met with Noalina and Lennox; their son Dwight and Lennox’s brother Donovan. As a taxi driver, Donovan took us for a tour of the Island which included Fort Hamilton, Friendship Bay and a visit to a turtle sanctuary. Mr. King has spent 20 years using his own resources to save the hawksneck turtle. He is quite passionate about his quest, charged a minimal entrance fee and was very proud that to date he has returned over 900 turtles into the ocean once they are five years old. Donovan brought us back to town and I must admit that the ride in the back of a pick up truck with benches could have been a paid ride at Canada’s wonderland!! The roads, barely one and a half lanes wide wind up and down the steep hills, with hair pin turns, at the edge of the steep embankments with little or no barriers in sight! With constant “beep beeps” of horns, vehicles would pass on curves, steep slopes and miss each other with cm to spare. I was white knuckling it, Jim was quite calm!
We have slowly adapted to EC money, which is Eastern Carribean; valued at $2.67 for each US dollar. Some items are quite reasonable, and some seem out of proportion. A case of beer costs about the same as a case of coke. Laundry is often done for you; two weeks ago it cost about $45 US for three loads. Today, I found a “do it yourself” place with a fan and a plug where I am now typing this blog and charging my computer! Upstairs in the coffee shop is the wifi (with purchase) and I’ll update our blog!
I am very much looking forward to a visit from my sister Jane who arrives this Friday for a one week tour of the Grenadines!!