A train trip up the Douro River
20 May 2015 | Povoa de Varzim Marina
Chris
We had been told by other boats in the marina that a trip up the Doro River by train was a good day out. Carolyn researched the train times and importantly the restaurant for lunch! You can book a formal tour for this but we managed fine by ourselves. We caught the 7.20 Metro from Povoa into Porto and stayed on board through to the 'Campanha' stop. You come out of the Metro and walk to the left into the mainline station (about a 3-4 minute walk) to buy a ticket on the train line to Pocinho. There are a number of stops talked about but we had been recommended Pinhao (other possible are Regua and Pichino itself). It cost about E19.55 each. Make sure you get a seat on the right of the carriage. The first hour of the journey is inland and not particularly interesting but then you come out on the side of the Douro River and the train winds around the bends opposite vineyards sculpted into the hilly sides of the valley over hundreds of years. The trip was about 2.5 hours to Pinhao. We had never been on a train trip just to see the sights but it was lovely scenery and worth the time and effort. Taking photos through the train window without getting a reflection of your hand/camera/partner etc is a tricky skill!
Our stop at Pinhoa at about 11.45 worked well, a quick stroll through the small town and found the restaurant on the river bank early enough to be the first customer of the day and grab the best table looking down the river. The Restaurant Vela Douro doesn't look much with plastic tables etc but has a nice patio and the service was friendly and good. The food, as recommended both on blogs we read and on TripAdvisor, was great. We all chose the lamb chops ('lamb shops' on the menu!) and whiled away the time with very nice bread, oil and olives. Jeff ordered a white port with tonic as had been suggested on our Porto tour and it was so refreshing Carolyn had to turn her port into the same drink - worth a try. It can be a long wait for the main dish but there is time before the return train and it was worth waiting. Four succulent lamb chops each, grilled potatoes and salad with a great dressing (E84 for 4 people including drinks). We spent a relaxing couple of hours over the meal and wandered back to the station for the 2.20 train back to Porto. By the time we left there was not a table free on the patio or in the restaurant itself, including many taken by locals. The return trip was a reprise of the outbound and we managed to connect with an Express service back to Povoa de Varzim (sound impressive but only saves about 10 minutes).
The wind was shrieking when we returned, regularly 35 knots, with the highest measurement being 38 knots, a Force 8 gale and that's in a reasonably sheltered harbour! Good job we put on multiple lines when we moored, all the other boats have followed suit with doubled lines and extra fenders. Despite this we had a nice evening with champagne, red wine, cold meats, cheeses and salads to finish Jeff and Sandra's time with us.
The picture shows the Douro River at Pinhao