Guimaraes - history and vegetables!
24 May 2015 | Povoa de Varzim Marina
Chris
On Friday we sorted out ‘port forward’ (the berth at the front on the left side of the boat) that we use for a store for all the things you need to carry on a longer cruise. We got that organised and did some washing using the new ‘twin tub’ machine which seemed to work well. The wind was still whistling so we had to dry the washing indoors, not only because we might lose it over the side but the wind brings a brown gritty sand with it gets everywhere! Dinner was in the salon again, it’s too cold to be on deck in the evening. We cooked ‘boat pizza’ which is a basic dough (a bit like short-crust /savoury flan pastry, but using rapeseed oil/corn oil) covered by a sundried tomato mixture and whatever is left on board. This time it was bacon, goat’s cheese, asparagus and mushrooms with cheddar and chilli oil to top it off. We really like it and its great cold for lunch the next day.
On Saturday we took a bus to Guimaraes, a medieval town about 90 minutes inland from the marina, known in Portugal as a key part of the nation’s heritage as the first King was born and baptized there. The Tourist Office had been helpful in explaining exactly where to get the bus and the Portuguese people at the stop were helpful in confirming we were at the right place (fare c E8.00 each return) This included a lady who had lived in South Africa and spoke good English, telling us about her time there and translating for the driver when boarding. The journey through both rural and industrialized county is not special but does give you a chance to see the locals go about their daily business. Guimaraes is a very attractive town with a clear architectural style and numerous old buildings (as elsewhere in Portugal, many are a bit dilapidated). We had coffee in a wide plaza and walked through the old part of town with its squares and arched buildings. The main attractions are the castle dating from the 11th century and the Ducal Palace which was very impressive. The many rooms were often similar but the main halls were superb. The photo shows the Dining Hall of the Palace where the Dukes and their retinues would hold banquets. No flash was allowed so it is a bit dull but the hall did convey the impression of power that had clearly been intended. Entrance was
E5.00 each or E6.00 if you included the museum downtown, which we did.
Our marina friends Martin and Jean had visited and recommended a vegetarian restaurant for lunch. Not our normal fare but the quality and style was praised so why not. The Cor de Tangerina (Lrg Martins Sarmento 89/opposite the Palace) is reached through a small set of shops and is an old building with a raised patio overlooking the Palace entrance. We were the first customers again and got a great table. We declined a starter and ate their homemade bread smothered with olive oil and toasted sesame seeds whilst we waited for the main course. With a cold glass of white this was very good. Our ‘dish of the day’ was mushroom and vegetable flaky pastry with salad, very acceptable and the salad included fresh pieces of orange and some fantastic strawberries and decorated with edible flowers. We shared an orange cheesecake as desert and this was beautiful, so light that we regretted not having one each. With coffee and wine the bill was E41.00. Worth a try for the location, the food and the obvious passion the lady running it brings to the place.
In the afternoon we toured the Museu de Alberto Sampio. It contained many religious artefacts, often with incredibly detailed engraving or metalwork and heavily covered with gold leaf where it wasn’t actually the precious metal. Interesting for a while but it did make you wonder why they spent so much money on that stuff in those days. The cloisters were the best bit of that part of the trip.
Carolyn was pleased with herself as she found a ‘potato masher’ in the store next to the bus station, with her potato peeler she now feels fully equipped!
Our bus journey back worked fine and we returned just in time to join Mega, Gabby, Jean and Martin on ‘Salt’ (Mega’s boat) for a little more beer, wine, snacks, sundried tomatoes on fresh bread etc until the evening turned too cold and we returned to read Kindles until bedtime. A very good day out!
Sunday has been spent washing Splice to get all the grit off her now the wind has died to moderate levels. It took all morning, initially with hoses and the small power washer we carry, and then hand finishing the remainder. The weather seems to have changed and could well provide a window for us to get south tomorrow. We will check the forecast again this evening and plan an early (c 5.00am) start towards Figueira da Foz about 80 miles away hoping to reach port around 6.00pm.
Maybe the next post will be from somewhere new!