04 September 2016 | Isola Tavalara
We spent a few days in the bay at Cala Coda Cavallo and then on Thursday morning motored the short distance across the inlet to the south end of Isola Tavolara. Tavolara is a massive long chunk of granite that rises from the sea just off the coast south of Olbia. As you approach it looks as if it’s a significant mountain on the mainland and not a separate island. It is a steep sided rock all around except for a spit off the north west corner forming a sandy bay. Compared to the peace in the previous bay this was party town. There are lots of boats and new arrivals and ferries appear all the time bringing more trippers to the beach. It’s obviously the place to pose in your big power boat as we watched some large expensive toys jostle with each other to get in and anchor close to the beach. We anchored well clear of the chaos and bobbed up and down in the swell created by the ribs and powerboats screaming around. We inflated Fizz and paddled ashore at around 13.00 to try out one of the two restaurants on the beach for lunch. The choice was easy, one with a very expensive menu and not many people, the other full of chattering Italian families and rather more reasonably priced. We had a selection of Sardinian meats and cheeses as a starter and then both had a locally caught fish, we think they were dorado and sea bass but the Italian names were different. The food was good other than Chris’s fish had clearly been on the grill on one side for far too long and was cremated on that side. With a carafe of local white wine it was a very pleasant interlude. We chatted with the French couple at the table next to us as he put away one of the biggest steaks we have seen as well as a bowl of spaghetti!
When we got outside to Fizz she had attracted an admirer, an elderly Italian gent was keen to chat. Unfortunately he spoke no English and we can’t manage Italian so it was an amusing few minutes exchanging the odd common word mixed with streams of Italian and hand waving. The fact that he looked and acted a bit like an older Danny DeVito added to the fun.
When we paddled back to Splice one of the large powerboats which we had seen trying to anchor in close to others earlier had obviously been evicted and had decide to come and bother us. His large grey bows were swinging about 10 foot off our stern, clearly he’d lost out to the big boys and wanted someone smaller to bully. Our standard technique in these cases is to stand and glare for a while and make clear by hand signals that he’s too close and it’s his problem, then take very obvious photos of the position and his identifying marks. The Captain ended up sitting in his helm seat for the next few hours whilst he presumably waited for his owner, we went for a doze……the wine does that you know.
Photo: Chris chats to ‘Danny DeVito’, the mass of Tavalara in the background