Catamaran cruising

Who: Carolyn & Chris Gebbie
24 July 2022
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25 July 2021 | Kilada

Polace, Prozura and Saplunara – Oktok Mijet (Mijet Island)

03 August 2017 | Oktok Mijet
The anchor came up around 09.50 and we motored out into light winds from the east. It took us four hours of motoring in under 5 knots of wind to reach Polace on the island of Mijet. Mijet is long and thin running roughly NW to SE down the coast of Croatia and Polace is on its northern corner. We had visited here before on our charter trip 8 years ago and enjoyed a walk through the woodland to the large inland but saltwater lake (there’s a narrow channel for water to enter). It’s a big bay but deep unless you want to moor to the restaurant quays. Some boats went closer to the shore to find shallower waters but we chose to drop in 13m putting out about 50m of chain. There was plenty of room even with the 30 or so other boats in the bay and the forecast was for very light airs so we were comfortable.

We dinghied ashore and found a small supermarket and a bakers in a nice village, though somewhat more touristy than we remembered. We spoke to the tourist office and got a bit of a shock as she seemed to think that the costs for the boat and us would be K750 – about £95 to drop your own anchor and have a short boat trip on the lake. We left and thought they could chase us later if they wanted cash – they did. A rib came alongside and we met a reasonable Croatian lady who treated us as 11m (we are 12.8m) and included the lake visit so the cost was K400 or £50 for a week – somewhat more sensible.

The next day we walked up over the hills and through the pine woods to the lake, its only 30 minutes of so but is a pleasant path. You then have to wait until the ferry comes back from the small island that has an old monastery on it. You can visit some parts of the monastery but we found the views around the lake the better part of the trip as we did the last time. It was very hot by now so we took advantage of the minibus option to get back to the bay.
It’s a nice place and still very pleasant to visit despite the developments since we were last there.

The monastery in the middle of the lake

On Monday we initially again had to motor in less than 5 knots of wind as we headed down the east coast of Mijet towards Prozura. Then about 14.00 the wind suddenly came up from the north and we were able to set main and gennaker in 10 knots. Half an hour later and we were reefing in 20 knots as we gybed down across the wide channel between Miljet and the mainland. The wind carried us into the bay of Prozura which is not very well protected from the north. The main bay here has a small additional bay to port as you enter and this was our target as we had enjoyed a great meal here previously. We had a bit of fun in the gusty winds picking up the buoy but the dinghy from the restaurant was there to help and we were attached with no issues. Chris took ‘Fizz’ the kayak ashore to order our slow cooked goat and potatoes (a speciality round here and fabulous the last time we tried it) well before the obligatory three hours notice – we didn’t want to miss out!

The view from the bay in Prozura

Konobo Marijina was run by the same lady as before and the staff were all very attentive and pleasant. We had the local meats and cheeses starter that is common here and then waited for our roasted kid goat. We were not disappointed this time, it was as good as we remembered it, the meat falls off the bone and the potatoes are flavoured by the meat juices, all very tasty. The local wine is also very good and here the meal was reasonable for what we got - K550 about £70. We recommend a visit here if you are nearby.

The Roast Goat and Potatoes

The next morning was another motor trip in the customary 2-3 knots to take us around the southern corner of Mijet to Saplunara. We intended to anchor but as we approached two ribs raced out, both offering mooring buoys if we ate at their restaurant. We wanted an night quietly on board so declined but one then offered a free buoy just if we went and had a drink at the bar. We did anchor but the space left after all the restaurant buoys is not great and we were unsure if we were safe in a wind-shift from the east so we then took the offer to pick up a buoy. In mid afternoon the guy was back saying that as the buoys were filling up we might have to leave so that someone eating a meal could have the buoy. We took a guess that there would be enough buoys which proved to be the case but we weren’t impressed as we had fulfilled our part of the deal. It didn’t make for a relaxing afternoon as we were counting the boats in and out of the bay! The bottom here is mixed sand and weed so trying to anchor later with no light to see the sand patches would have been much more tricky. We were unimpressed by their approach and whilst the bay is fine it’s not special, the bar/restaurant itself didn’t look that great when we went there - if you go there avoid ‘MS Restaurant’.

Saplunara Bay from the beach

Vessel Name: Splice
Vessel Make/Model: Broadblue 435 Catamaran
Crew: Carolyn & Chris Gebbie
We have been married for over 25 years and have two grown up sons. Carolyn has dual English/French nationality and speaks French well. [...]
Extra: Contact us at splice435(the at sign)gmail.com

Who: Carolyn & Chris Gebbie