We spent three nights in Kalamos before retracing our steps on Monday to Vlikho Bay just south of Nidri so we had access to the towns marine facilites. It took a couple of days and enlisting the help of Paul Brooks at Yacht Engineering Solutions to find a battery that was the right power and also fitted in the 17.5cm wide space we had available.

Starboard engine starts first time now without a problem......but..... on the way to pick up said battery the outboard had a fit, it just stopped suddenly from full power to zip. It always starts again but if you put any revs on whilst in gear it will stall again in around 30 seconds. We played with it for a morning and then asked Paul Brooks for help. Chris spent the following morning with him as he stripped the thing down, checking the fuel supply, carburettor etc and he wasn't able to find the fault. The only option we couldn't test was the ingition coil. As normal this is expensive and hard to find, no one seems to hold stock in Greece, Paul was searching in the US and we were chasing in England. It was clear this was not a quick resolution, so we took ourselves off to Sivota for the weekend.

We had a pleasant trip down there, tacking against a 9 knot breeze for a while down the Meganisi channel. We were only making 3 knots or so but with the sails up for the first time this season it was very relaxed, even the ferries kept their distance!

We like Sivota and always book in on Martino's pontoon to starboard as you enter. It's reasonable (E15 per night at present), is in the less commercial part of the bay and doesn't commit you to eating at any particular taverna as the other moorings do.


Carolyn enjoying a meal at the Ionian Taverna, Sivota with Splice in the background

We worked on Splice during the mornings, final winch services - all seven done now, stainless polishing, fixing the headlining around the main doors which had decided to droop and Carolyn did all the washing which had accumulated. We had a nice sunny weekend to dry it all as well. The afternoons were more relaxed and we ate out both nights, even risking a pizza at the Sivota Bakery which turned out to be the best we've had in Greece (we have had some awful pizza here!)


Sivota harbour from the entrance

By Sunday afternoon we were back in Vlikho Bay, partly because of threatened strong southerly winds overnight and partly to be ready to hunt the ingition coil once the commercial world woke up. The winds predicted didn't turn up and we had a peaceful night, unfortunately the ignitor/ignition coil hasn't shown up anywhere yet either so its Monday pm and we haven't made any progress. The search is concentrating in the UK at present!

It's all rather frustrating, we wanted to be well south and into the Gulf of Patras by now. As it is, we have a week of forecast strong southerly's against us (coupled with fairly constant rain) and we still are not equipped with a functioning outboard. It looks as if a delay to get the part is at least 10 days so we will probably have to leave without it.

The curent thoughts are to bash across the southern Ionian Sea to the east coast which will provide more shelter from the S/SE wind and try and make progress down that coast towards the Gulf. We will have to pick the right day or it will be an uncomfortable ride! The alternative is sitting still for another week which isn't much fun either.

The other big issue taxing (literally) sailors in Greece now is the introduction of the Greek Cruising Tax or TEPAI. This has been mooted for a couple of years and in typical Greek fashion has been unclear and chaotic the whole time. It has finally been launched though only accessible online. Every boat is expected to register and pay by the 18th May and of course, the website is somewhat random and difficult to use, the reference numbers they demand are longer than the banks reference fields etc, etc. As members of the Cruising Association we have at least got some reasonable advice and idea of the difficulties facing us but the Facebook posts etc of others are showing some stress as they try to comply. We will have a first go to register later, update next time.

Main photo: Flower garden in Sivota