The next island to the south is Sifnos. We set out hoping for a downwind sail but the wind gods had used up their energy the previous day and couldn't manage more than Force 1 despite a higher forecast... engines on. Another 15 miles brought us to Vathi on the southern part of the west coast. It's a very attractive place with a basic holiday village spread along the beach (literally, there's no path or road to some of the buildings, guests luggage is carried across the sand in wheelbarrows). Having arrived around 13.00 we got a good spot in the anchorage and watched as it filled up during the afternoon. The later arrivals were having to anchor out in deeper water but everyone got hooked eventually.

Part of the fleet anchored in Vathi Bay

We had noticed another boat flying a Cruising Association pennant so went and said hello to Leon and Jessica on 'Geordie Lass 3'. Leon is Greek and the boat's name gives a hint to Jessica's origins! We were invited aboard for a beer or two and spend a pleasant hour or so chatting before we had to disappear to get the shopping which had been the original purpose of the dinghy trip. We ate that night at a recommended family run taverna on the beach (tables actually in the sand) by the church and the food and service were very good, local lamb dishes were very tasty. Since passing through the Corinth Canal the cuisine in the tavernas has definitely gone up a good few notches. Food in the Cyclades is better even though the islands are supplied by ferry and use their local produce.

Beach-side living in Vathi

The next morning on our bread run we helped Geordie Lass moor stern to the quay and agreed to meet later. We spent the day swimming and reading whilst the population of boats around us changed though everyone here was sensible in their anchoring and spacing which was a pleasant change. That evening Leon suggested the same taverna as they liked it too and we had a lovely meal that he used his local knowledge to order. Greek salad with soft cheese (as opposed to the normal Feta), chick-peas in a tomato sauce, marinated anchovies and grilled aubergines followed by a roasted pork and chicken dishes, all shared with a few glasses of wine. It was even better food than the previous night, definitely one of our favourite tavernas - 'To Tsikali'.

We motored around the corner and along the south coast the next day and dropped the hook in Christopigi Bay which is part of Faros Bay. It's a lovely settling with a monastery on one headland, a chapel on another and a very nice beach with another great taverna. Arriving around midday we found only a motor yacht there so we were able to chose our spot in an idyllic location.

However....... on the passage, whilst in deep water, we as normal went to pump out the blackwater holding tank. Most of the way through the process Chris realised the pressure on the pump handle had suddenly dropped. He stopped pumping immediately but when he lifted the floorboards on the port side it was not a pretty sight. The diaphram of the pump had burst and showered the very smelly contents of the tank over the bilge and the stuff stored there. It might have been an idyllic bay but we spent the whole afternoon flushing the boat with seawater and repeatedly pumping out before a final disinfectant flush. Luckily we had an old pump with a different broken element and we could then make one working pump from two broken ones. This took a couple more hours to assemble and refit. By 17.00 we were very hot and irritable, but the boat didn't pong and the pump worked again. Time to jump in the sea.

Christopigi Bay. Note Splice hanging 'the wrong way round' as she has the kedge out

We spent a couple of days there, took the dinghy to the main settlement which has a small shop. We ate in the taverna ashore, the meal here was finished off with a free wine based liquor infused with honey, very tasty but rather strong. We walked up to the monastery when the temperatures cooled on the second evening. The previous day there had been a wedding at the monastery with the bride arriving by boat to the steps in the bay. It's a wonderful location with views all around and the white-painted buildings are like those you used to see on postcards.

The Bride arrives by sea

Despite a constant northerly forecast we found that an afternoon sea-breeze from the south got up to 10 knots each day. This caused a bit of a problem as it was pushing us into very shallow water. The first day we re-anchored to reflect this but, having gone back to our original and nicer location that morning, on the second day we used our kedge anchor from the stern to stop the drift until the evening prevailing winds re-established themselves. That worked well and we very much enjoyed the bay and it surroundings. A 'must stop' if you pass this way.

Christopigi beach with the taverna to the left

Main photo: Taverna on the beach in Vathi