We moored to the quay in Finikas around 15.45hrs and neighboring boats helped us get the lines on. Very quickly the port police were at the stern 'requesting' the skipper to visit their office with the ships papers. The Harbour Master turned up shortly afterwards and was helpful enough to organise a diesel delivery for us the next morning. The 'PP' were quite happy with our documents, well, we have got our Dekpa and paid the TEPAI tax so we are 'good sailors'. It cost about E16 per night on the quay so we paid for two nights thinking we would probably extend that later.
That night we found a taverna along the harbour front called Calmo Mare. As we entered and looked around for a table an American couple spoke to us and we ended up joining Rick and Barbara from 'Far Out' for a chat. The food was good, a tasty plate of tapas and a quarter litre of wine was E3.50 and all we needed after that was to share a grilled mackerel, although a bit salty, we enjoyed the meal and the company. As we all walked back towards the harbour there was a very professional band playing 'Rembetico' music (a romantic Greek style) so we stayed and watched for a while.
'Far Out' were anchored in the bay, as is their normal habit and the next day when the swell started to affect the quayside we decided they were right and after our two nights on the quay, went out to anchor off. Finikas is a nice place with a great bakery, a fruit and veg shop and a butcher a short walk away. We managed to stock up a little though the supermarkets were basic.
We spent two evenings chatting on board each others boats with 'Far Out' and made a joint expedition by local bus to the main town of Ermoupoli and its medieval 'Chora', the old settlement high on the hills away from the threat of seaborn raiders, which we visited using the free shuttle bus. It's a very pretty place and we wandered around, often lost, in the narrow alleyways but managed to find the cathedral of St George and a pleasant coffee stop before eventually finding the exit!
A dwelling in the ancient town
Once back in Ermoupoli Rick and Barbara suggested eating at Loutra Taverna which is located a street back from the bus station. Another excellent lunch - we ordered four tasty different dishes squid, chicken, beef and mushrooms which we shared and even had some leftover all for a very reasonable E34.
The harbour at Ermoupoli has a repulation for swell and we saw it was well deserved, as we watched the large ferries come charging into the same harbour as the yachts, pushing huge stern waves as they swung around to berth. We were glad we hadnt made the mistake of berthing there.
'Maltese Falcon moored in Ermoupoli
If you are big enough, however it is less of an issue and one of the biggest and most complicated sailing yachts in the world was berthed there. 'Maltese Falcon' is 88m long (8 times the length of Splice) Chris remembers reading all the news about her as she has three self supported masts and 15 electrically controlled furling sails. She didn't seem troubled by the swell but we couldnt help noticing that not all the sails were furled as neatly as they could have been! Trying to keep 15 automatic furling mechanisms working well must be tough job.
One of the better furled sails on Maltese Falcon
We enjoyed our visit to Finikas and would recommend it as a stop for a few days, probably at anchor unless you need diesel or water supplies.
Main picture, Ermoupoli from the harbour. The 'Chora' we visited is on the hill to the left.