Steen Rally

Follow us on our sailing adventure from France to Australia

30 December 2015 | Sydney
29 July 2015 | Sydney
15 January 2015 | Sydney
22 December 2014 | Sydney
21 November 2014 | Cairns, Australia
02 November 2014 | Cairns, Australia
21 October 2014 | Port Vila, Vanuatu
01 October 2014 | Fiji
20 September 2014 | Fiji
08 September 2014 | Fiji
24 July 2014 | Neiafu, Tonga
06 July 2014 | Tahaa. French Polynesia
23 June 2014 | Moorea
23 June 2014 | Moorea
15 June 2014 | Papeete, Tahiti
14 May 2014 | Marquesas, French Polynesia

Hurricane season has come and gone!

03 December 2013 | Puerto Aventuras, Mexico
Voahangy

November 30th marked the official end of the hurricane season in Mexico. Not a moment too soon in our books, as it has meant 6 months of daily weather watch and the inability of travelling anywhere, either by boat or by land.

Back in May, I wrote about our boat preparations for the northern summer. Running behind in the publishing department, the article (and many others) was never posted. Reading thru it with the benefit of hindsight, I realise how we prepared for the worst. Our big cat is like a baby: it needs cradling, securing, and a 5-day weather window to make a trip worthwhile. The latter never really happened, and we found that the Western Caribbean Sea (once known as the Spanish Lake) is pretty much a breeding ground for tropical storms. What looks like a minor depression one day, can turn into a massive system the next. We were lucky this year and experienced a very mild hurricane season: yes, we had rain and wind, lots of it for days on end, but nothing that came close to a life threatening hurricane. Even the experts at the National Hurricane Center can’t get over it: the initial forecast was for a 70% above-normal season and 3-5 major hurricanes; out of 13 named storms, only 2 ended up as Cat 1 hurricanes (Ingrid in Mexico, Humberto far away from any land). Now that we’re about to get the boat ready to go again, I thought I’d publish the original story, updated with facts on what actually happened this summer. Apologies for being all over the place… again.

May 2013 - Preparing the boat for the hurricane season.


Terry had to dive under the mooring buoys to assess the condition of the chains, and deemed more prudent to shackle the lines directly to the blocks at the bottom rather than to the buoys themselves. So the boat is now not only tied along its port side to the wharf but also on its starboard side to 2 mooring buoys in the middle of the channel. The idea is that these lines will hold the boat off the wharf, in the event of strong winds.
Along the wharf, we loosened the mooring lines so the boat sits off the dock at least 1 meter, giving the fenders a break (they’re starting to show some wear and tear from rubbing against the concrete so hard!)
Head sail and gennaker have been put away in lockers. The main sail will stay in place (too hard to take down), it is covered and wrapped with multiples lines.
Cushions in front cockpit have also been put away. Other cushions in the back deck and on the flybridge will stay for now, to be removed at the last minute. Same goes for the bimini on the fly bridge and the awnings protecting the back deck. We need them on a daily basis, and so far they have resisted heavy storms, with winds up to 60 knots, so it will need to be a big hurricane before we take them down.
All drains have been checked for free flowing. It only takes a couple of seeds to block them, and that can cause major drama with overflowing and flooding (particularly in the engine rooms)
Now that we don’t navigate so much, we have to run the engines at the dock, weekly to ensure they will start when we need them to!
Insurance has been adjusted accordingly ( PANTAENIUS charged extra premium and increased the excess in case of damage…).
Extra flags ordered to replace the tattered ones!
Extra water bottles and enough food supplies to last 3 months!
Bring it on!

December 2013 – Post-hurricane season preparations


The strongest winds we experienced were up to 60 knots. All lines held the boat securely, we have fairly substantial growth on the section of lines sitting underwater, but Terry assures me it will disappear once we let them out to dry in the sun. Our dock lines have suffered minimal chafing damage, a surprise considering how much the boat moved with each wave entering the harbor. Even then, the wharf was never too close to the hull, and I am convinced that Anne and I have grown longer legs, getting on and off the boat!
The main issue has been the constant rain thru September and October. Fortunately, all outside cushions were put away in dry lockers, but anything left out in the elements has either green patches or black spots from excessive humidity. I’m not looking forward to the scrubbing sessions! Some days, the rain proved too much for the fabric used for the bimini top and the back deck awnings, and water would come down pouring thru…I am hoping they will last until our return to Australia (though am tempted to do repairs in Mexico, where labour is so much cheaper).
Terry has been very thorough with engine maintenance, both units running like clockwork. That’s in spite of engine compartments flooding a couple of times (blocked drains are the bane of our yachting life!) In the same vein, the hulls are relatively free of furry stuff, thanks to regular scrubbing.
We’ve just put the main sail up, after being tied down for so long. I’m relieved to find it undamaged, though the bottom half is covered with green streaks of mildew, making it look like some aquarelle painting! Hopefully sun and salt spray will get rid of that. I am keeping my fingers crossed for the other sails locked away in the bow, hoping they’re in good condition.

The biggest adjustment we’ve had to make in Puerto, is using bottled water. We buy 100 litres a week as tap water is not drinkable. But not only is it bad for human consumption, it creates havoc too on appliances and plumbing due to its high mineral content, particularly salt and calcium. We learnt this the hard way when both our water heaters rusted away, causing short-circuits and power outage ( the drums are supposed to be marine grade stainless steel, I guess the quality is not there…) Thankfully Lagoon shipped replacement units, which Terry fitted without connecting the water to them though. The idea is to wait until we leave Mexico and we can make our own water, before using the water heaters again. It is a very roundabout way of saying that we’ve not had hot water on board since May! How do we cope? Until recently, quite well: cold showers were welcomed in the searing hot weather, it is becoming a problem now with overnight temperatures down to 18 degrees. Still, it is a mild complaint . We’re very much aware of the fact that the locals have to deal with water quality problems constantly (maybe that’s why Mexicans drink so many soft drinks and tequila), and the weather has not been kind to everyone this summer ( while the Yucatan peninsula was relatively unscathed, regions like Vera Cruz and Acapulco took a beating).

So here we are, the boat is officially coming out of hibernation, ready for cruising again…soon.


Le 30 novembre marque la fin officielle de la saison cyclonique au Mexique. Ce qui n’est pas trop tôt a notre avis, après avoir passé 6 mois à zieuter la météo tous les matins et renoncer à nous déplacer que ce soit en bateau ou en voiture.

En mai dernier, j’avais décrit les diverses préparations nécessaires pour sécuriser le bateau pendant l’été. Etant en retard dans le domaine de la publication, cet article (et beaucoup d’autres) n’a jamais été poste. Je l’ai retrouvé récemment et en le relisant après coup, je me rends compte qu’on s’était préparé pour le pire. Notre cata c’est notre bébé : on le bichonne, on le protège et on s’assure d’avoir une fenêtre météo d’au moins 5 jours avant de le sortir. Ce qui n’est pas souvent arrive cet été, en fait on a découvert que cette partie de la mer des caraïbes (autrefois surnomme le Lac Espagnol) est une véritable pépinière de cyclones. Une dépression anodine un jour, peut devenir un énorme système le lendemain. Nous avons eu de la chance cette année, la saison cyclonique a été calme : certes on a eu pas mal de vents et de pluies, pendant des semaines entières, mais jamais rien de dangereux. Même les experts du National Hurricane Center n’en reviennent pas : les prévisions initiales étaient pour une saison « plus active que la normale » a 70% et 3 a 5 cyclones « majeurs » ; sur 13 tempêtes officielles, seulement 2 ont évolués en cyclone de catégorie 1 (Ingrid au Mexique, Humberto en plein océan loin de tout). Maintenant qu’on s’apprête à remettre le bateau en mode navigation, je me suis dit qu’il serait bon de vous faire part de nos préparations, accompagnées d’une actualisation. Encore une fois, je m’excuse d’avance pour une chronologie farfelue…

Mai 2013 – préparation pour la saison cyclonique

Terry a plongé sous les coffres pour vérifier la condition des chaines, et a décidé qu’il serait plus prudent d’attacher les amarres directement aux blocs en béton au fond, plutôt que de se fier aux bouées. Le bateau est désormais amarre au quai cote bâbord, et attache cote tribord a 2 coffres (bouées) situes au milieu de la marina. L’idée étant que ces amarres nous tiendront suffisamment éloignés du quai en cas de grand vent.
Cote quai, on a relâché les gardes pour nous distancer d’environ 1 mètre, histoire de soulager les pare-battages (qui ont la vie dure, en contact permanent avec le mur en ciment !)
Le génois et le gennaker sont ranges dans la soute à voile. La grand-voile restera en place (trop compliquée à démonter), bien emballée et tenue en place par de nombreuses cordes.
Sur le pont avant, on a enlevé les coussins. Ceux du pont arrière et du fly peuvent rester jusqu’au dernier moment. De même pour le bimini sur le fly et les tauds protégeant le pont arrière. Ces derniers nous sont indispensables et jusque-là ont résisté a des vents de plus de 60 nœuds, il faudrait que ce soit un sacrée tempête pour qu’on les enlevé.
Tous les drains sont nettoyés pour faciliter l’écoulement des eaux. Il suffit d’une ou deux graines pour les boucher, et créer une catastrophe si il y a débordement par exemple et les compartiments moteur sont inondes.
Maintenant qu’on ne navigue plus autant, il faut démarrer les moteurs à quai, une fois par semaine pour s’assurer qu’ils marcheront quand on en aura besoin !
L’assurance a du être modifiée (PANTAENIUS exigeant une prime supplémentaire et augmentant la franchise en cas de sinistre…)
On a commandé des pavillons en rab pour remplacer les chiffons actuels !
Des provisions d’eau et de vivres pour nous durer 3 mois !
Nous sommes prêts !

Décembre 2013 – bilan de la saison cyclonique

Les vents les plus violents qu’on ait eus ont atteint 60 nœuds. Les amarres ont bien tenues, même si les parties immergées sont recouvertes d’une couche verte assez épaisse, mais Terry m’assure que ça va disparaitre une fois exposée au soleil. Les gardes n’ont pas autant souffert qu’on le pensait, a notre grande surprise, vu comment le bateau dérapait lorsque de grosses vagues sont rentrées dans le port. Mais même dans ce moments-là, le ponton n’a jamais été proche des coques et je suis convaincue que mes jambes et celles d’Anne se sont allongées, à force de monter et descendre du bateau !
Le plus gros problème a été la pluie incessante en Septembre-Octobre. Heureusement que nos coussin d’extérieurs étaient ranges au sec, car tout ce qui est reste expose aux éléments porte ou des taches noires ou des trainées verdâtres, signes d’une humidité excessive. Les séances de nettoyage s’annoncent musclées ! Certains jours il a tellement plu des cordes que le tissu/matériau utilise pour le bimini et taud à l’arrière n’a pas pu résister et la pluie est carrément passe à travers les fibres…J’ose espérer qu’ils vont durer jusqu’à notre retour en Australie (à moins qu’on ne décide de faire les réparations au Mexique, ou la main d’œuvre est bon marche).
Les moteurs marchent comme sur des roulettes, ayant été très bien entretenus par Terry. Et ce malgré l’inondation des compartiments (les drains bouches sont un vrai fléau sur VOAHANGY !) Dans le même registre, les coques sont en bonnes conditions, grâce à des séances de nettoyages sous-marins réguliers.
On vient juste de sortir la GV, après l’avoir ficelée pendant des mois. A notre grand soulagement, il n’y a pas de dégâts, à part les trainées vertes de mildiou sur la moitié de la voile. On dirait une aquarelle par ma copine, Annette Heacox (sauf que son aquarelle est bien plus belle!) . Espérons que le soleil et les embruns vont nettoyer tout ça. Et je croise les doigts pour que les autres voiles dans la soute soient toujours en bonne condition.
Notre plus gros souci à Puerto a été de nous approvisionner en bouteille d’eau. On en consomme 100 litres par semaine, l’eau du robinet n’étant pas potable. Non seulement elle n’est pas bonne pour nous humains, mais elle crée aussi des ravages dans certains de nos appareils et la plomberie à bord. La cause : le taux élevé de minéraux, notamment sel et calcium. On a découvert ca quand nos chauffe eaux ont rouille de l’intérieur, entrainant court-circuits et panne d’électricité (les réservoirs sont censés être en inox standard marin, mais de toute évidence la qualité n’est pas ce qu’elle devrait être !) Nous sommes reconnaissants a Lagoon pour nous avoir envoyé des unités en replacement, que Terry a installé, sans y connecter l’eau cependant. On va attendre de quitter le Mexique et pouvoir faire notre eau propre, avant de brancher les chauffe eaux. En fait c’est une façon bien détournée de dire que nous sommes sans eau chaude depuis le mois de Mai ! Comment fait-on alors ? Jusque-là ça allait: les douches froides ont été bien appréciées pendant la chaleur estivale, mais récemment ça devient plus problématique maintenant que les matins sont un peu frais (18 degrés c’est frisquet pour nous !)

Ceci dit, il n’y a pas de quoi se plaindre. On est conscients du fait que l’approvisionnement en eau potable est un souci permanent pour les Mexicains (c’est peut-être pour ça qu’ils boivent autant de sodas et de tequila ?), et la météo n’a pas été aussi favorable pour tout le monde cet été (le Yucatan en est sorti indemne, alors que les régions de Vera Cruz et Acapulco ont été dévastées).

Alors voilà, le bateau sort officiellement de son hivernage, prêt à repartir…bientôt.
Comments
Vessel Name: VOAHANGY
Vessel Make/Model: Lagoon 560
Hailing Port: Sydney
Crew: Terry, Voahangy, Marc, Anne Steen
About:
Terry, 71, skipper, ex-pilot, surfer, aerobatics champion, can fix anything, never sea sick, loves a beer, hates the cold, is happiest anchored off a deserted beach. [...]
VOAHANGY's Photos - Main
84 Photos
Created 20 November 2014
2 glorious months, cruising various parts of Fiji. So many different experiences in one country: lush rainforests, colourful indian towns, blue lagoons, traditional villages, great fishing, fancy resorts... And the best part was sharing the cruising with family and friends. Can't beat Fiji with company! Here is a collection of our favourite moments (and there are a few!!!)
1 Photo | 8 Sub-Albums
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Whale watching, snorkelling, bonfires, making new friends...One of the most remote and austere destination, far away from big tourism, with friendly people holding on to their traditions. Weather a bit chilly, but who cares???
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1 Photo | 3 Sub-Albums
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The time finally came to leave...a month of celebrations and sadness!
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Another holiday within the holiday! Spent 13 fantastic days in Whistler, British Columbia joined by Aussie friends David and Denise. First time on skis for them, perfecting camps for Marc and Anne, loads of fun for everyone.
70 Photos
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Nothing like having family and friends coming for a visit in the sun. Lots of eating, drinking, swimming, laughing...showing everyone our small paradise.
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End of school year in Puerto, many get togethers before flying off to Paris for a family Christmas.
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Day of the Dead festival, a friend visiting from Australia, Anne participating in her first martial arts tournament,...As usual a lot of eating and socialising!
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74 Photos
Created 1 November 2013
This is the slowest month of the year in Mexico: hurricane threats, hot and humid weather, torrential rains drive the tourists away and confine the rest of us indoors. It poured for 22 days non stop! We still managed a dive (in the rain) for Father's Day, a day of all you can eat and drink at the local resort for Terry's birthday, and as usual lots of cooking and eating. Just on cue, the weather cleared at the end of the month for the arrival of Marie Suzanne, a French girlfriend. So lots of touring and catching up. Celebrated Mexican Independence Day all month long (it seems), eating black beans and pork verde!
47 Photos
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33 Photos
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Holiday month for everyone: visitors from the USA, kids in and out, parties, US National Day celebration, French National Day celebration, Tulum for a night (bliss...) The start of a new food blog meant a month spent in the galley experimenting. Not much in terms of local food, mostly home cooked French. Chocolate cake anyone?
41 Photos
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Holiday Seasons with old and new friends, provisioning and preparing to leave the USA...
54 Photos
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End of school year performances, lots of baking/cooking for school festivities, Marc hospitalised, first tropical storms testing our nerves, road trip to Belize... Eat ceviche, my latest food addiction!!!
15 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
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Lots on! An interesting road trip to the Chiapas region, wonderful ruins of Palenque, green and lush Tabasco, Anne's birthday, Cozumel by boat, Kids sports graduation...Eat chilaquiles, breakfast with a difference.
26 Photos | 3 Sub-Albums
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30 Photos
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19 Photos
Created 13 June 2013
Exploring the Yucatan peninsula by car, to Uxmal ruins and Merida. More of Tulum. Marc's Birthday. Try Flyboarding. Join in the local community of Puerto Aventuras. Xel-Ha. Discover Playa del Carmen. Eat nachos.
27 Photos | 2 Sub-Albums
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31 Photos | 2 Sub-Albums
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Our last few weeks (even months) have been spent in Puerto Aventuras, Mexico. Not much cruising for us, more like enjoying company of new friends, safety of a protected harbor, and relaxing for a while, knowing we don't have to go anywhere for a while...
25 Photos
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2 weeks in an island where time has stood still for 50 years! Road trip La havana - Vinales- Cienfuegos - Trinidad - La Havana. Cruise down the west coast, beautiful beaches, good fishing, diving,... Warm waters at last!!!!
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