Stella Mia

20 August 2018 | Langadha, Chios Island Greece
19 August 2018 | Nicosia Oinoussa
18 August 2018 | Chios, Greece
10 August 2018 | Port Alacati
07 August 2018 | Turkey
05 August 2018 | Turkey
02 August 2018 | Bademli, Turkey
01 August 2018 | Bademli, Turkey
01 August 2018 | Acropolis of Pargamon, Turkey
01 August 2018 | Pargamon, Turkey
30 July 2018 | Alibey, Turkey
28 July 2018 | Lesbos, Greece
27 July 2018 | Bozcaada, Turkey
25 July 2018 | Troy, Canakkale Turkey
24 July 2018 | Gallipoli, Turkey
23 July 2018 | Port Marmara, Turkey
22 July 2018 | Turkey
20 July 2018 | Silivri, Turkey
18 July 2018 | Turkey
18 July 2018 | Istanbul, Turkey

Langadha, Chios Greece

20 August 2018 | Langadha, Chios Island Greece
Dierk and Sabrina

20 August

Our intention on leaving Mandraki was to lay for Nisos Lesbos some 30 miles to the north. We knew we would have to beat northwards, but hoped that there would be enough westerly component in the wind to a allow a making leg for the SE corner of Lesbos. We would only know this once we poked our nose out from protected waters behind the islands.

So this we did. Once outside, the news was not good. The wind was directly in front of where we wanted to go. So, looking at the tacking required, this trip would take us at least 14 hours, well into night, against wind and 1m seas. Too hard, so we turned around and made for plan B, a small village downwind on Chios called Langadha.

This is a very pretty village, but the bay is deep. We had to anchor in 20m, and took us at least four goes to get the anchor to bight. We laid about 80m of chain out. The bay was generally calm, but was subject to bit of roll. A spring line was required to keep the bow straight...no problem though.

We all went to the beach, with most having a go on the SUP. Many of the walkingtracks were abound with small fenced gardens over which fresh dark grapes hung....Yum. Talking of yum, Grant and Jenny found a quaint little restaurant at the end of the quay. It was a family owned business and they only served tapas style food. The owner took time to explain all the dishes in detail, the finished off by saying we only sell bulk wine, honest to boot. We will eat here, and drink his bulk wine, which by the way was pretty good. The whole meal for five including wine came to 56 euros, top quality, well worth it.


Not many boats visited here, maybe they knew something we did not. Well worth the stay though.

Mandraki, Nisos Oinoussa

19 August 2018 | Nicosia Oinoussa
Dierk and Sabrina

18 -19 August

Mandraki is a quite picturesque village on what would appear to be relatively insignificant island. What we did not know was that this island has produced the richest ship owning families of Greece, including the the richest of them all Costa Lemnos.

We had to tack into a 20 knot northerly to get there. With Grant an experienced yachtsman on the helm he pinched up where he could. Davide, also had a go and did an amazing job of keeping the boat on track. It took us about three hours and as we entered the bay we were met by a statue of a mermaid at the entrance to the harbour.

Here's the thing, Sabrina's rule whilst sailing if you get the boat to 8 knots boat speed you get a black jelly bean. Well both Grant and Davide got it, but we did not have black jelly beans, so lolly snakes had to do....yeah baby

One more weird thing when sailing in the Aegean Sea between Greece and Turkey is the presence of warships, NATO alliances and others. Helicopters circle above. When in Greek waters we always tacked well before Turkish water boundary. Once we approached the sea border and a helicopter hovered above watching....I think

The Mermaid of the Aegean Sea

Ok, the mermaid of the Aegean Sea. The mermaid sits on a rock holding a ship. So the myth goes thus. She was a magical mystical mermaid, sister of King Alexander the Great. She knew nothing of her brothers fate, the stars and the gulls were hushed, so only ships could bring her news. On seeing a ship afar, she would stop it emerging stunningly from the waves. All sailors were afraid of meeting her.

Only the brave would tell her the truth, that her brother had perished. On hearing this she became angry and whipped up a tempest and the sailors would drown. Many ships were lost this way, by brave sailors telling the truth.

Astute captains slanted it a different way. They would say that he was still alive and reigns. Whilst not entirely true, it was not a lie either. They new his legendary name would live forever and always live through people's tales. On hearing this the mermaid smoothed the waters and shining sea was calmed. It's that, my sweet heart, words in tales are sweet to the soul and help you stay strong. Phew, we condensed this from a book Sabrina had called, "The Mermaid", Myths and Legends of Modern Greece by Angeliki Darlasi.

The harbour is well protected from the meltimi wind, but does suffer sever gusts. We originally anchored in the bay but decided to tie up to the quay because at one stage we dragged the anchor because of the difficulty in piercing it through some of the patches of weed. We berthed between two large charter motor boats.

We used Quack Quack to explore the little islets near by. Each had churches on them and were well worth a look. Grant andJenny took off and explored everything, no stone unturned. Their favourite haunt was some bakery, always adorning us with fresh bread and croissants. At one stage I took a run up to the top of the hill above the village and then on to another small remote church. Simply stunning I say. Davide did a lot of diving. He is a professional diving instructor. His gear made ours look like a scene from Biggle goes to the Beach.

We remained here for two nights, thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing. Again more dancing on the quay that last night. Stella’s music system is really good, so a bit of volume on a deserted quay.


Chios, Greece

18 August 2018 | Chios, Greece
Dierk and Sabrina
Chios, Greece

15 - 18 August

We basically motor sailed from Port Alacati to the Port of Chios on the island of Chios. It took around three hours and tied up in the main Port. We were met by the harbour master, Stelios and an Agent Ilkim. Checking into Greece is a lot simpler than in Turkey because all the Authorities are in the one place, but we got the agent to do it for us.

He later returned with our transit log and crew list, all completed with no hassle. When we have done it ourselves it has taken a couple of hours at least, not to mention dealing with different interpretations of the the transit log systems....

It was great to be back in Greece. Chios, 29 km (18 mi) at its widest, covering an area of 842 km2. It lies between Lesbos to the north and Samos to the south. These islands are part of the Eastern Sporades group of the Aegean Sea. The terrain is mountainous and arid, with a ridge of mountains running the length of the island. The two largest of these mountains, Pelineon, 1,297 m and Epos 1,188 m are situated in the north of the island. The center of the island is divided between east and west by a range of smaller peaks, known as Provatas.

The mastic trees are the trademark of Chios and a main source of income for many residents of the island. Its cultivation started in the ancient times and they produce a rare resin that is largely exported. The mastic trees of Chios provide a resin that comes out from their bark in the shape of teardrops. This resin is used for the elaboration of different products, especially a very unique chewing gum, as well as quality spices, alcoholic beverages and sweets. An interesting detail about the mastic trees is that they grow in many parts of the world but the only place where they elaborate its resin is in Chios. It is not very clear when the cultivation of these trees on the island started, but it is known that Herodotus was the first to notice their resin, around the 5th century BC. More about this later....

We were to pick up our next group of friends, Davide, Grant and Jenny. The plan was to explore Chios and with any luck truck up to Lesvos, the latter being unlikely given the northerly meltimi wind, but you never know.

Any way, the guys finally arrived and settled in. And we left the port on the 18th of August bound for a small island of Oinoussa to at the north end of Chios.

Oh, we forgot to tell that the night before Davide arrived the four of us went out to tea at this amazing waterside restaurant. Grant and Jenny saw it on the previous night as they came in on the ferry. A great meal was had. On the way out there was this bored looking DJ. He put on a salsa track, and since we all dance a bit we took to the pavement and went for it. The whole restaurant just stared, but we kept going until the track finished, then we left...

Port Alacati, Turkey

10 August 2018 | Port Alacati
Dierk and Sabrina
Windsurfing - Port Alacati, Turkey

7 - 15 August

We finally arrived at Port Alacati marina and booked in for a week there. The marinas are smart. They charge you in euros, not Turkish Lira which is currently suffering a challenging time. So like it or lump it.

Port Alacati marina was very good. The marina guys assisted us with their tender because there are tight spaces and a heap of crosswind as you enter your allotted berth. They assist every boat, we think it is a requirement. Of note, was as we approached there literally a hindered sailboards flitting across the straight. Flat water and heaps of breeze, we could not wait.

We decided that the next day was out sailboard set up day, but until then, a bit of R and R.

Alaçatı was only discovered as being the ideal windsurfing spot in the country a few decades ago, however it quickly transformed into becoming one of the most unique and trendy summer destinations in Turkey. While the town is located a few kilometers from the beach, wıth Port Alaçatı in between, the cove, which made windsurfing famous in Turkey, has all of the perfect conditions nearly 300 days of the year. A consistent and strong wind coupled by crystal clear waters that are predominantly shallow in a nearly enclosed cove, make this the ideal spot to learn the sport or watch the pros competing as Alacatı has also become a regular stop on the PWA (Professional Windsurfers Association) world tour.There are a number of schools in Alaçatı offering classes and rentals for all ages and all levels.

We sailed there every day in winds between 15 and 25 knots over flat water and at the days end, the old mates were stuffed. It’s not as easy as it used to be, but we’ll go down kicking and screaming. The set up here is excellent. We were able to hire a locker to keep our own gear in for a week. In fact our sails were too big for here. I usually use a 6.8m sail, but had to use Sam’s 5.8m. She had to hire a 4.9m sail. We were just over powered here. There are bars adjacent to the windsurf schools and storage facilities.

One day was spent in Alacati itself. We had met a great guy, a yacht delivery skipper, charter and sailing instructor. Herman was in actual fact an Austrian who had settled in Turkey. He took us there by car to the town the first time. The town is about a mile away from the marina. Later we went by bike and spent the day shopping and checking it all out.

Whilst walking along the road I saw this old guy sitting on the side of the road with his shoe shine station waiting for customers. He had a full service centre with him. He had such an interesting face, a face that had seen much in his life for sure. We approached him and as expected could not speak English. I asked him if we could take a photo of him. He agreed and I sat with him and using hand gestures got him to explain his craft. He showed me his shining polishes and let me feel and smell them. We had a laugh, and it got me thinking that this was a dying art in our throw away society. In a weird sort of way I actually felt enriched when sitting with him, very strange, a great feeling.

One funny incident occurred. Picture this, driving into Frankston on around midday Saturday at the intersection of Davey Street and Nepean Highway. Got it, well whilst waiting at the lights a herd of goats along with the goat herder walks along the side of the highway, some 50 or 60 of them each with clanging bells around their necks. One decides to break rank and the herder rushes over to the rebel goat and frantically waves his stick and shouts some Turkish expletives at him....laugh. This is the scene we had as we rode our bikes into Alacati. When all had settled we went over to him and shook his hand and said “well done”. He looked at us and returned a huge smile.

Alaçatı is one of the most traditional towns in Turkey with stone houses, narrow streets, boutique hotels and restaurants with tables on the streets. It is certainly an upper class area by any means. Heaps of expensive cars there and amazing villas. They are trying to build a Patterson Lakes type marina system, water front houses on waterways.

Herman was very helpful. He advised us on numerous fronts, sailing the waters, about Turkey and helped us organise our check out arrangements out of Turkey. We used his shipping agent. In Turkey, the customs processes are quite cumbersome and it best to use an agent. Our next port of call was Chios Island in Greece.


Dalyankoy, Turkey

07 August 2018 | Turkey
Dierk and Sabrina
Dalyankoy, Turkey

7 August

We departed Eski Foca in a moderate 20 knot meltimi tracking roughly in a westerly direction. As we rounded the Karaburun Peninsula we headed south. The wind dropped and came back at around 25 knots from the NW, so we had a sleigh ride down the coast to Dalyankoy, our proposed destination.

Dalyankoy is an upmarket location with this inlet that is now operated as a marina. Apparently, it is one of the best locations for fish. On arrival we followed in some people we met in Eski Foca. They had a berth organised, but as we went in we realised the place although pretty was indeed a hot box, no breeze so we went back out and anchored off in the bay outside. It provides reasonable shelter from the meltimi here. The issue is they have roped of the protected area of this bay, so you must anchor out slightly where you are a bit more exposed to the swell and breeze, as we found out.

During the night the meltimi started coming. No issue, but the swell it generated made the anchorage uncomfortable but not untenable. By dawn the wind was up at around 20 knots and increasing. We needed to move on so we upped anchor and took off for Cesume. The only hitch was that we had to track northward into the wind to round a bad area of foul ground. You could cut the time by taking a short cut through a passage off Uc Buranlar. But this needs local knowledge, not when you are bashing against swell and wind. As t turned out, an experienced yachtie told us we had mad the right decision in this case good to know.

By the time we approached the cardinal markers we were bashing into 30 knots and 1.5 m seas, taking a few greenies over the front. Reefed main and power on we bashed into it and the finally we rounded the mark and ran off with a reefed jib. What a sleigh ride. When abeam of Cesume we decided we would truck toward Port Alacati instead. Rather go sail boarding instead of hanging around another big city.

Once rounding Ak Burun we flew down the coast in the lee of the mountains copping heaps of bullets (gusts of wind that is, don't want to give anyone the wrong idea......)

We finally arrived at Port Alacati marina and booked in for a week there. The marinas are smart. They charge you in euros, not Turkish Lira which is currently suffering a challenging time. So like it or lump it.




Eski Foca,Turkey

05 August 2018 | Turkey
Dierk and Sabrina
5 August

After leaving Bademli we traversed the Candarli Korfezi to a small seaside village called Eski Foca. Generally an uneventful sail, but the waters in this gulf were quite confused. There was swell coming at us from the northwest and simultaneously from the northeast out of the gulf. No problems, but weird.

As we approached Eski Foca, one could see it was quite picturesque. Surrounded by barren islands. As we entered the bay a windsurfer had fallen off his board and by some fluke the sail and boom landed on top of the sailboard's deck and it sailed away from him as fast as he could swim. Clearly in trouble we motored over and caught his board. As he caught up, to you could see the relief on his face. He was fairly spent, but jumped on his board and sailed away, making for the shore post haste.

Anyway, we made for the town quay and hovered out the front waiting for some guidance. Finally a couple of guys on the shore beckoned us in to a place. The docking was a bit different in that the lazy line was attached to a buoy, which was really good. Easy to pick up with a boat hook. Sabrina usually docks the boat. She' s really good at it. The guys on the shore were somewhat surprised see a woman dock. As usual she greased it in, and all the old mates were relieved...no problems at all boys, stay cool and pour a Kiera.

As it turned out we were very luck to get a place here. A local boat must have left for a few days and we took up his berth. It was a great place. Obviously a holiday area, very pleasant. It was great to stop for a while as we had to repair the battery charger and one of the toilets. There were chandlers here, so it was all good.

We ended up staying two nights. This town is alive at night around the corner from the quay. All manner of eateries. One night we listened to a jazz band. Good music and really talented musicians and vocalists, but it had a Turkish slant to it. Unique, that is for sure.

Eski Foca lies at the entrance to Izmir Korfezi, the gulf that leads to Izmir, one of the major cities on the Turkish coast. We were originally going to go to Izmir, but you know what, we were over large cities, so we decided on leaving we would head off toward or surrounds Cesume instead because we did not have to travel 20 miles or so down this gulf to get to Izmir.

Eventually the plan was to end up at Port Alacati, Turkey's premier windsurfing location.

Vessel Name: Stella Mia
Vessel Make/Model: Beneteau Oceanis 45
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia
Crew: Dierk and Sabrina Meyerheinrich
About: We've been married for over 30 years and have always had an enduring passion for the ocean. Surfing, sailboarding and sailing has always been a huge part of our lives, and now for the next chapter....
Extra: We would love our family and friends to follow our adventures over the next few years......
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Walter and his family were a pleasure to meet.
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