Stella Mia

05 August 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
04 August 2022 | Ekincik, gateway to Daylan and rock Tombs
04 August 2022 | Netsel Marina, Marmaris Turkey
01 August 2022
29 July 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
29 July 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
29 July 2022 | Bozuk Baku
28 July 2022 | Bozburun, Turkey
28 July 2022 | Simi Town Island
27 July 2022
26 July 2022 | Ag Marina, Simi Island
25 July 2022 | Ag Marina, Simi Island
24 July 2022 | Panormitis Bay, Nisos Simi
20 July 2022 | Panormitis Bay, Nisos Simi
14 July 2022 | Rhodes Greece
12 July 2022 | Rhodes Greece
11 July 2022 | Rhodes Greece
23 August 2019 | Turkey
22 August 2019 | Ciftlk, Turkey
21 August 2019 | Marmari

Kucuk Kuyruk

05 August 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
Dierk Sabrina | Hot
Kucuk Kuyruk

After leaving Ekincik we made our way toward Fethiye. But we would stay in a couple of bays in the Skopea Limani, a large indented bay west of Fethiye. We again motor sailed to this area and anchored in a little bay called Kicuk Kuyruk on the eastern side of The Cape Kapidagi Yaramadasi. I always have to look twice at these names because Turkish does not come naturally to me at all, even after our third year sailing these waters.

Before choosing this destination, we checked the first bay, Kizilkuyruk Koyu, but it was filled to the brim with all manner of vessels, yachts, gulets and motor boats. No room for us, but the second bay had only four yachts and a motor boat, so we approached, set our anchor and two lines ashore. The water was amazingly clear. Late in the afternoon a crosswind struck most boats. Normally not a problem, but is anchored with lines ashore you must ensure the anchor is well dug in otherwise the boat can swing into the shore because it is secured from behind. A simple check is once settled, take a compass bearing and ensure it remains within +/-5 degrees, allowing for normal swing. Or take a reference point from some fixed position off the bow.

An extra bonus was the arrival of an ice cream boat. He comes in a small motor boat yelling "ice creams", how good is that.

That night was superb, bright stars and much phosphorescence in the water when we swam in the dark.

The next morning a huge Turkish Gulet came in, reversing up the middle of the bay. Ordinarily not a problem, but this bay was very small. They also do the lines ashore thing, but need to lay out lots of chain. In this case there was considerable risk that their captain would drop the anchor and lay their massive chain over ours. If this happens we would not be able to leave because our chain and anchor would be pinned down, and given the depth was around 30m, we would have no chance of leaving until he did, and even then, upon retrieval his anchor could tangle up in our chain...not a good thing.

He attempted to anchor once. We were sure had not laid over our chain as I could not feel any vibration through or own chain when he was moving. Before he came in for a second go, we bailed. I shouted to the captain, wait until we go. Nearly every boat left in a hurry. Some of these tourist boat crews are ruthless and it is best not to get in their way. So once out of the bay, it was off to Skopia Limani.

Talk soon....

Ekincik, Lycian Coast Turkey

04 August 2022 | Ekincik, gateway to Daylan and rock Tombs
Dierk Sabrina | Hot
Ekincik

3/8/22

We finally left Marmaris for Ekincik, a small seaside village within access to the famous Rock Tombs on the Daylan River. To the east of Marmaris the Carian Coast finishes and the Lycian Coast begins. Ekincik is the best place to leave a yacht to visit the ancient city of Caunos. Numerous tripper boats undertake day trips from here to the tombs, which are about five miles up the Koyucigiz River.

We arrived at around 15:00 hrs and anchored in 6.5m over sand (30m chain), so good holding. The bay was open to the south, but was quite calm. There was a quay, but it was small and very hot, so decided to stay at anchor. At least we had a cool breeze. The town was full of beach goers, swimming and floating around on all manner of craft. As the afternoon passed, other boats anchored around us.

The tripper boats continually come and go, taking people on all manner of tours. At dusk, this guy approached us in his boat and offered us a trip at 160 Euro to get to ancient Caunos via Daylan, and then an extra 20 Euro to get to the mud baths. He gave us his brochure and told us to ring him in the morning. San and I decided to give it a go, but he was a bit vague about the price, so we tried to ring him numerous time and never picked up. Half an hour later he flew past us and did not even look at us. I guess he must of got a better offer...anyway, not to worry, we decided to do the tour from Fethiye, which would undoubtedly be cheaper....so we left.

Marmaris and more engine stuff.

04 August 2022 | Netsel Marina, Marmaris Turkey
Dierk and Sabrina | Hot
On the 1/8, we planned to leave Marmaris for Fethiye, with some stops along the way....or so we thought. Just before leaving we completed the engine checks and they were all good. Once a week, I check the sail drive gear box for oil level and appearance. Having just had it serviced before leaving Greece I did not expect any issues. Out with the torch, unscrewed the gearbox oil bung and peered inside.....I was mortified. The oil which is supposed to dark green and translucent was a lemon yellow colour. There dad been a failure of some sealing component somewhere and salt water had got into the gearbox. It was so disappointing, knowing full well that it needed to be rectified, and that Stella would have to be lifted out to effect repairs.

It has happened to some yachts in the past the fishing line and netting had been dragged into the propeller and cut the seals. This did happen to a similar yacht when we were sailing around the bottom of Italy as recalled by Sam. So, on with the diving gear and over we go for an inspection. There appeared to be nothing wrong at all around the sail drive leg. What now....

Mark and Edwina from Take Five had some repair work undertaken at Adakoy Marina not far where we were anchored some weeks earlier, so we called them up and they kindly put us on to their contact. He called us and organised to send a mechanic out to the boat the at same afternoon. As suspected, the boat had to be lifted, and so it was to be. The travel lift was booked for 08:30 that morning at Netsel Marina in Marmaris. They allowed for a 2 hour repair interval. To lift it would cost 13,000 Turkish Lira (Just over $1000 AUD). Any more that 2 hours, the boat would have to be relocated onto a sled at a further cost of another 13,000 TL. This cost was only the hauling fee, and did not include the repairs....As they say, BOAT stands for ""Bring Over Another Thousand"

As it turned out, the guys who fixed it were excellent and competed the job just inside the two hours and Stella went back into the water all fixed, so we got out of this fairly lightly. So, what happened. One of the two O rings that make good the seal had displaced itself from the groove it had been set into and was pushed to the back other gearbox housing compromising the seal. Furthermore, it was determined that the shaft needed extra shimming to take up some sloppiness in the shaft. We were trilled with the repair. We will be back in Greece soon and have made contact with the previous service mechanic where we will discuss this issue with him.

That day we went to Adakoy Marina and stayed there for the night before departing Marmaris the next morning. On doing my engine checks, I was thinking the fan belt was a bit slack. I said to Sam, I wish the mechanic who fixed our sail drive was around so I could ask him. Not five minutes later, who rocks up in his tender.....yes...our mechanic. All good, says. We couldn't believe it. I asked him if he could check the belt, so he jumped on board checked it and gave me the thumbs up. Too much tension and you will wear out the alternator and water pump bearings. Now, his workshop is on the other side of the bay, maybe two mile away, but he just happened to have a job at Adokoy that morning and saw our boat and decided to say hello.....spooky

Just for the record, he told us that his next job was a total sail drive change on a 42'Bavaria where the owner had never checked the oil and it had totally seized up to the extent that the oil dip stick had melted and wrapped itself around some the gears. The cost of the gearbox alone was 10,000 Euro. Not only that, the engine would also have to be removed to effect repairs, so imagine the cost of that repair.

Check the photo Gallery for more pictures

Marmaris Limani, Turkey

01 August 2022
Dierk Sabrina | Hot
Marmaris

1/8/22

We arrived in Marmaris from Ciftlik on the 30/7, a mere four hour trip, mostly motor sailing in light airs (Full main, jib and 500 RPM on the engine). We chose to anchor on the eastern side of Marmaris Limani for a couple of days. From here we could take the coastal shuttle into the Marmaris and pick up a local Turkish SIM card for data. Up until now, we could not get a SIM anywhere, so they were only available in the larger cities and towns. We use the SIM in an old iPhone (Thanks Nathan) and hotspot to all our other devices, mainly for weather and communications with home, Facetime, messenger, Facebook and th like.

After the second night at anchor, a large Australian catamaran anchored near us and we eventually got talking to crew. The boat was sailed by circumnavigators Phil and Sandy. They had extensively sailed around the world, and not only that, Phil had built the 60 foot boat himself over a 10 period underneath his Queensland property. I told him that I would not get into a boat that I had built myself, even less chance taking it across an ocean....gasp, we had a bit of a chuckle.

They were so interesting to talk to, having tea on board with us for one night and again at a restaurant the following night. In the gallery you will see Phil towing us to the restaurant because I did'nt have the outboard on Quack Quack.

I think he had completed at least two circumnavigations. In any case, they had travelled in the waters around the horn of Africa in Somalian waters, dealt with pirates, chased from place to place, uncertain of friend or foe and sailing at night with out lights to avoid detection. One story he recalled was sailing somewhere around there, and a boat followed them, zigging when the zigged, and zagging when they did. This is an obvious sign that there maybe be ulterior motives at hand by the pursuer. The crew of the boat chasing them waved their weapons, and tried to stop them whilst at the same time pointed in some kind of direction, eventually catching up until a few meters behind, still yelling. All of a sudden one of the crew of this boat comes up the gangway holding a compass, pointing at them and simultaneously swinging it around. It finally dawned on Phil that the crew of this boat were lost and wanted co-ordinates and a direction to get them back to their home port. Can you imagine the relief the crew felt after that. As it turned out the were some sort of port authority I think that were actually lost.

Sandy told us of the lengths they went to before sailing through these waters. Emergency procedures including mayday calls and contact lists which included a French Naval vessel that regularly patrolled the area. Another time a boat approached them and some of the pursuing crew actually grabbed the stern of their boat, whereby the crew on Phil's boat had to threaten to whack their fingers with a stick to dissuade them to to board. They had innumerable stories all told with such "matter or factness", no fanfare or revelry. In fact listening to them was spell binding and you'd wonder how you would react in such circumstances, absolutely scary stuff. They were off to the Caribbean this year and who knows where there after...real Sea Gypsies

By the way, Sabrina nearly got a job as an ice cream girl. The vendor took a liking to her and got her behind the counter, check out her smile in the photo gallery.



Ciftlik, Turkey

29 July 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
Dierk and Sabrina | Hot
Ciftlik

We stayed in Ciftlik for the night. We visited Ciftlik before in 2019, so more detail is available on a previous blog. One thing that still sticks in our mind is the flat bead that they bake daily in the restaurant affiliated with the small jetty we were on. They have a large pizza type oven with a grill plate on small stilts that has burning wood underneath it. She kneads the dough into a pizza base shape around 450mm in diameter and 25mm thick and places it on the hotplate. Once baked, it is removed and allowed to cool under a cloth cover. This bread is to die for. We were thinking of asking her for the dough recipe, but thought that might be a bit presumptuous and would not be conducive to for Australian - Turkey diplomatic relations......on a small scale of coarse

Another oddity is when you order your meal there. When you sit down, they don't give you a menu card, but rather they beckon you over to large refrigerated bar where all the food is on display. What ever they make is in front of your eyes. You choose, they remove the item and cook it. Fantastic, absolutely nothing left to the imagination. WYSIWYG...what you see is what you get...and the food is invariably local produce and extremely fresh. Without wanting to sound too organic, I loved the fava beans.

Now off to Marmaris

In Transit Bozuk Baku to Ciftlik

29 July 2022 | The Carian Coast, Turkey
Dierk and Sabrina | Hot
Bozuk Buku to Ciftlik. Turkey

29/7

Occassionally we post some sailing stuff, but in measured amounts because it can get a bit repetative. Today is an example of what sailors can face from time to time. We left Bozuk Baku in fairly light conditions. The weather forcast was issued:

RODOS SEA - WNW 3 0R 4 SOON 5 Seas slight.

This means winds from the West of North West, 10 to 15 knots soon reaching 20 knots. Otherwise perfect conditions forecast. Reports here issued in the Beaufort Wind State, unlike Australia where winds are generally reported in knots.

As we headed out,the sea state was already moderate and winds were gusting 25 knots. Furthermore there were standing waves in in isolated pockets due to small sections of counter currents set against the wind direction.

This leg was almost down wind for us. On Stella, we do not run off the breeze very well. We carry a genaker, which is like a spinaker without the pole. It is perfect for broad reaching but will not carry dead down wind, even so it was far too breezy to use this. The ideal solution would be to run down wind with twin poles, a jib out each side. We have no poles, so these are on our bucket list.

We elected to broad reach on a couple of down wind tacks to get to Ciftlik. That worked well. We ended up with 1 to 2m swells and 25kn+ breezes. We donned or life jackets and tethers. The latter are used to attach ourselves to lifelines if we need to get to the foredeck in marginal conditions.

At one point, we were reefing down and the jib sheet pulled through the leward block causing the jib and sheets to flog violently. The knot tied at the end of the sheet which would prevent this had undone itself. As we came back up into the breeze we were able to retrieve the sheet and sort it out. I guess we should always check these little things before sailing. Our fault...

We finally reached Ciftlik at 14:50 and backed onto a little quay where Mehmets restaurant was located. These little places are excellent because they offer free mooring, power, water and WIFI, but it is politic to eat at their restaurant. Given the cost of marina fees nowadays, you are still way in front.

In any case, back to the weather report. They are usually quite accurate, but can not always predict local conditions, especially near land where winds are often modified....so always expect the unexpected and have a back up plan before leaving...that's my two bobs worth..talk soon

Vessel Name: Stella Mia
Vessel Make/Model: Beneteau Oceanis 45
Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia
Crew: Dierk and Sabrina Meyerheinrich
About: We've been married for around 40 years and have always had an enduring passion for the ocean. Surfing, sailboarding and sailing has always been a huge part of our lives, and now for the next chapter....
Extra: We would love our family and friends to follow our adventures over the next few years......
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Some snapshots from the anchorage, Ag Marina
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Our first day back in this amazing city
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Back together with our friends in Rome
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Walter and his family were a pleasure to meet.
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Some moments in Rome preparing Stella Mia for summer 2104
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