The goal is to die with memories, not dreams.

Nisos Lévitha

23 September 2021
Jane Paulson
Nisos Lèvitha

It is the norm that when us cruisers want to shower, to save precious water, we jump off the back of the boat to get wet, get back on and lather up with shower gel and shampoo, jump back in to thoroughly rinse off and then do a final rinse off with fresh water from the transom shower. Modesty goes right out of the window! Consequently, I have seen more bare, white bums in the past weeks than you could shake a stick at!!! Big bums, little bums, saggy bums, lovely bums and tight, fit bums and before I get carried away I should continue........

We had a fabulous 20 mile sail to this remote island. Both sails up and once we got away from the  high mountains and gusting wind, the breeze was a consistent 13 to 17 knots and Stiletto got well into the groove and we sailed all the way to the entrance of the most sheltered  bay we have visited so far.

In our Pilot book it said that  just two families lived here, relying on solar and  wind for energy. No electricity, gas, telephone or water other than from a well.

There were 12 mooring buoys in the bay, installed by the one taverna owner who charged a modest fee - €7 per night.  His taverna/farmhouse was a 15 minute walk away from the small quay where a fishing boat was moored and where you can tie up your dinghy. He came out to collect the fee and told us that the taverna was open from  6pm. Our book also said to be sure a take a torch for the  return if you visited the taverna. No street lights here!!!

We ate on board that evening but planned to explore both in the dinghy and on  foot the  next  day finishing with a meal in the taverna in the evening. Whilst sat on the front of the boat watching the sun drop,  we watched several hawks flying close  by,  occasionally swooping down to the  ground to scoop up some  poor unsuspecting lizard or mouse. 

Next day we took the dinghy around the bay, marvelling at the clarity of the water.  The  clearest we have seen yet . A very large herd of goats made its way down to the beach and the shepherd was filling up their water container from a well.

We tied up to the dock and went in search of the taverna and to get up high in order to hopefully find a phone signal as there was  zero down at sea level. We found the taverna, and confirmed that we would be back at 7 for supper.  We then carried on walking up and up until eventually our phones pinged into life and we could look at the weather  forecast.

There are no other people or buildings on this island. No villas. No half finished buildings.  No pylons stretched across the landscape.  Just beautiful blue water , clear sky, and it is so incredibly quiet it almost hurts your ears.

This is another gem we have added to our list.

Muse for this post: the greatest wealth is to live content with little.

Vessel Name: Stiletto
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 33 Cruiser
Hailing Port: Gosport, UK
Crew: Andreas Giles & Jane Paulson
We have been sailing together for 15 years and have owned Stiletto for 13 of them. We have exhausted the Solent and the South Coast and all the other usual passages: West Country, France, Channel Islands etc. that are available from our home port of Gosport. [...]
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