Nisos Astipálaia - Vathi
02 October 2021
Jane Paulson
Nisos Astipálaia – Vathi
We were chatting on our way to Vathi about the fact that we had not seen any dolphins at all this season. We were wondering why that was. Perhaps due to more boat traffic now that travelling has become kind of easier and we have seen a lot more yachts and motor yachts than last year. Last year very was quiet on the water and we saw lots of dolphins.
To our absolute delight we had a total of 7 sightings on our 22 mile passage. Quite soon in fact, after our conversation (I'd like to think that they had been listening!) All of them seemed very young and were not at all interested in us and didn't come close, apart from just one who approached from one side, crossed our bow and came across the other side. He didn't break the surface but the water clarity was so perfect we saw him up close and as clear as a bell. Wonderful. It really is such an uplifting experience, I can't explain exactly
The word Vathi means deep. This anchorage is an inland sea accessed through the rocks with a very narrow entrance which is very hard to see from the sea and cuts deep into the island a long way and is excellent shelter from any wind direction and, is the perfect bolt hole if needed. We were really hoping to have the anchorage to ourselves. Sometimes we do, other times we don't. Here there was just one other, UK flagged boat so we dropped the hook in front of them allowing for plenty of space between us both.
This is a really peaceful and sleepy anchorage. Just one taverna that couldn't seem to make its mind up if it was open or closed, a smattering of houses and a herd of goats. Total silence. Bliss.
We did just one night here and as we were leaving we saw a group of people with a theodolite, big buckets and laptops and cameras. We assumed an archaeological party digging for relics or doing a survey maybe. I hope they won't be planning on ruining this bay !
Muse for this post : if it doesn't open, its not your door.