The goal is to die with memories, not dreams.

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Ikaria, Mikonos, Siros, Kithnos and the Greek mainland.

02 July 2022
Jane Paulson
Here, There and Everywhere PHEW!!!!

Yep - we're on a mission- and not for the first time either!! And quite frankly I get confused as to where I've been as the stays have been so very short and as a result, places just don't seem to ‘stick'.

Personal Confession Time :
I am struggling with the heat. It's 34 deg C in the saloon, 35 deg C outside and a sea temp of 29.5 deg C as I write. When I'm outside, I feel like I am melting.

I lost my tilly hat over the side in a big gust and sailed for a day without it and burnt my scalp. The soles of my feet hurt because the deck gets so bloody hot it burns them. My hair feels like straw and my nails are totally shot to bits.

Also, (and my girlie followers will get this) – during the summer months, my top lip moustache grows like billy-oh and glistens in the sunshine, hair appears in huge quantities on my arms, hands, fingers and legs. I don't always have the luxury of space and most importantly WATER, to luxuriate in getting rid of all the above.

So, enough of all that, back to my blog.

We got a lovely welcome from everyone we knew on Ikaria. It was so nice to be welcomed back – especially from the locals. We caught up with ‘Big Chris’, Peter and Tracey, Steve, and Steve and Wendy. Andreas got all his paperwork done successfully and as much as we love it here, it's time to move on.

Mykonos is next. You may recall we've been there before! We left at 05.45am and had a 44 mile passage ahead of us. We had a very sporty sail for the first 14 miles then the wind couldn't make up its mind and eventually died leaving us on the engine with a horrid sea state.

On arrival, we did not go into the marina but anchored in Ormos Annas. A lovely bay that we had anchored in the last time we were here. We dropped anchor off the beach, listened to loud music from the beach bars, saw lots and lots of party people and reminded ourselves of how much the island of Mykonos has been ruined.

Next day : Nisos Siros (Yedaros Gaidharos). A 20 mile passage, ironically with no wind, a glassy sea, and our first sighting of dolphins. They rocked up, took one look and headed off but the excitement for us never wavers. We are like children on Christmas morning!!!!

We were going to go into the ‘Ghost Marina’ at Ermoùpolis - again we have been there before. It is free but not managed and falling into disrepair. One of many marinas that the Greeks spent millions of Euros on and then just left them!!! Criminal.

Ermoùpolis is the capital of Siros and is a very significant port town, with neo-classical buildings, old mansions and white houses cascading down to the harbour.

First though, we did a quick detour into a little bay that we had noticed tucked behind the tiny island of Nisis Gaidharos and it was just so beautiful, with only one other small boat that we decided to drop anchor and stay.

Later, a small rib arrived with one guy on board. He secured the rib and took a couple of cool boxes to what looked like a cantina (cafè) on the beach. We followed suit keen to see what he was up to and possibly get an Ouzo and Mezze. It took a bit of navigating to get ashore as there was a reef that went almost entirely the width of the bay quite close in, with just a small gap at the end to get through. We made it through and got ashore in Dubsy and the guy greeted us by telling us he had just made coffee and promptly put a cup on the table and invited us to sit. It wasn't a cantina. It was a beach hut that he had started to build 25 years ago and each summer he opens it up, makes a few additions and just chills out. He then produced a bottle of Chippero, poured each of us a glass and we spent an hour in the company of this lovely, generous man. His name was Phasos and his Jack Russell was ‘Arry!!! We were then joined by an Italian family who had come around from the Ghost Marina in their rib, they too were made equally as welcome, and we spent another hour swapping stories and generally putting the world to rights. This was an absolute gem of a find. We are so pleased that we stuck our nose in to the bay.

Next day: Nisos Kithnos (Ormos Kolóna). Kithnos is one of the least explored islands in the Cyclades and is known for its crystal clear water and the crescent shaped isthmus of beautiful fine sand at Kolòna. It is a stunning bay.

A 32 mile passage and again no wind. We have been here before too and it is one of our favourite anchorages. Unlike our last visit, it was very crowded, but we found ourselves a spot and spent two nights here. The beach bar was in full swing and we ate in the taverna.

Next: The Greek Mainland (Porto Rafti) Porto Rafti is a famous seaside resort with multiple blue flag beaches. There has been a housing development boom due to its close proximity to Athens and the subway.

A 30 mile passage which started as a motor sail but we finished on the Cruising Chute (which hasn't come out of its bag for a very long time!!!!). From here we will cross to Nisos Evia where we will meet with Andrea's Aunt Mechthild and Cousin Angela – neither of whom he has seen for 13 years. Our Mission will be accomplished!

Muse for this post: Life only comes around once, so do what makes you happy and be with people who make you smile.




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Vessel Name: Stiletto
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 33 Cruiser
Hailing Port: Gosport, UK
Crew: Andreas Giles & Jane Paulson
About:
We have been sailing together for 15 years and have owned Stiletto for 13 of them. We have exhausted the Solent and the South Coast and all the other usual passages: West Country, France, Channel Islands etc. that are available from our home port of Gosport. [...]