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13 September 2022
Jane Paulson
THE SPORADES - Nisos Alónissos

Alónissos is less busy than Skiathos and Skópelos and whilst it is trendy it is low key, with art exhibitions, a homeopathic academy and resident herbalists. It is rugged and wild compared to its neighbours and very green. The southern half has pine forests, fruit orchards and olive groves and is famous for its apricots. It has the cleanest water in the Aegean.

In 1952 the cottage wine industry stopped abruptly when the vines which were imported from California were struck with disease. The result was that many islanders , having lost their livelihood, moved away. Then, to make matters worse, in 1965 the hilltop town was destroyed by an earthquake. The remaining inhabitants were rehoused at Patitiri.

Despite the total devastation, over the years, buildings have been repaired or rebuilt and the result is absolutely gorgeous, as you will see from all the photographs that Andreas took.

In 1992 The National Marine Park of Alónissos was founded to protect monk seals , dolphins, sperm whales, wild goats and seabirds in an area encompassing Alonnisos and a dozen islets. The monk seals are the most endangered European mammal – there are less than 350, mostly around the island of Madeira but also off North Africa. However, a small number can be found in the Ionian and Aegean seas and live and breed around the islets of the Sporades marine park.

Female monk seals have one pup every two years and can live for 45 years! Sadly they compete with the fishermen in the overfished Aegean but the establishment of the marine park has helped by banning fishing northeast of Alonissos from September to November and prohibiting it altogether within 1.5nm of Pipéri.

We decided to go into the port as we wanted to spend a couple of days exploring this lovely island and we could also plug into shore power and fill our water tank. On first impression it looked perfect. The ferries had their own docking area as did the yachts but oh boy!, the swell that came into the bay was horrendous and all the boats along the quay were rocking and rolling and we were amazed that masts were not clashing. It was really very uncomfortable. We put on extra lines with our big metal springs which took the strain of the ‘snatching’ that occurred and after 3 days, we were glad to leave but we left a truly stunning island and we will be back (but not on the quay!!!).

Muse for this post: If life is a journey, then these Greek islands should be your destination.

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Vessel Name: Stiletto
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 33 Cruiser
Hailing Port: Gosport, UK
Crew: Andreas Giles & Jane Paulson
About:
We have been sailing together for 18 years and have owned Stiletto for 16 of them. We have exhausted the Solent and the UK South Coast and all the other usual passages: West Country, France, Channel Islands etc. that are available from our home port of Gosport. [...]